Cesare Casella and Elisabeth English

The 15th annual Nantucket Wine Festival has wrapped and the clinking of glassware subsided.  It was 5 wowza days of learning and meeting while having the most fun possible.   Most folks have now boarded a plane or boat to carry them home, while we business owners are working overtime to ready ourselves for Memorial Day weekend.  Where did those 5 days go?  It was kind of a blur…

Opening night at the White Elephant was a brief, but essential 2 hour party featuring Veuve Clicquot.  People were electrified for the start of the festival and elated that the gloomy weather prognosis was wrong, wrong, wrong.  My friend Cesare (Salumeria Rosi, NYC) and I continued the evening at The Pearl, where we had plate after plate of inventive morsels (and glass after glass of Veuve rosé) dining at the bar.  Like Cinderella, I was just barely home by midnight.

Farmstead cheese plate

Thursday began with a cheese course for breakfast and 6 glasses of wine.  Perhaps you would call it brunch, in that it was 10am, but breakfast sounds more outrageous and it was my first meal of the day.

I’m all for cheese for breakfast, anyway, but these were special cheeses, selected by Matt Jennings of Farmstead in Providence and Ihsan Gurdal of Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge and NYC.  It was billed as an Old World-New World “smackdown”, with Matt representing New World American farmstead cheese.  It was amazing how they each had selected, without prior consultation, plates of contrasting, but complimentary cheeses.  Our table loosely agreed that it was a tie for the most part, but for me, the New World Ascutney Mtn. raw cow’s milk  from Cobb Hill Farm commune in Vermont–golden yellow and rich, caramelized flavors–gave Matt the victory.

I followed my cheese & wine breakfast with a champagne lunch.  A rock star champagne lunch, actually, meaning the cuisine of Seth Raynor (Pearl, Boarding House, Corazon del Mar) paired with the champagnes of Veuve Clicquot in an exquisite outdoor setting.  It was the 2nd annual “Nantucket Women of Wine luncheon” hosted by Veuve, and Mother Nature must have been in full favor of the event.  It was a lovely opportunity to connect with other businesswomen from the Nantucket community and luxuriate in  food and wine splendor–French Kiss oysters poached in Grande Dame, Grande Dame-braised lobster and toasted vermicelli…!  Poor Dominique Demarville (Chef de Cave)–he arrived late, newly initiated to the troubles of fog, airlines and island transportation.

Of course, one does not ideally follow these two events by going to work for the rest of the day, but alas, duty calls.  It was a busy afternoon of visits and sales and before I knew it, it was time to pour at the Comte Senard table at the Nantucket Wine Festival Gala.  If I was to be behind one table and taste wines of only one winery for the entire evening, this was where I wanted to be.  One, because Beatrice Senard is so fabulous and chic, and two, because the wines were possibly the best of the night.  Beatrice greeted me with a welcome sip of Bourgogne Blanc and from there, we progressed to the Premier Cru Les Valozieres, and TROIS GRAND CRU….2009 Clos des Meix, 2007 Les Bressandes, 2006 Les Paulands.  What a pleasure!

I did manage to sneak a taste of Alex Gambal’s 2009 Puligny Montrachet from winemaker Fabrice Laronze en route to our table and also had a night cap of Tim Mondavis 2008 Continuum while noshing on porchetta from Salumeria Rosi.  From there, Mark and I joined Cesare and Lia Tolaini-Banville of Tolaini Estates for a late bite at Lola 41, before continuing on to the obligatory bottle of Veuve rosé at, where else, The Pearl.  I forfeited the Coach in lieu of the Pumpkin, and stopped by the Club Car for a midnight tune at the piano on the way home.

Dominique & Cesare

Nevertheless, Friday began at 5am, when my feline alarm clock encouraged me to rise.  It was a big day and there were preparations to be made;  we had two major wine events scheduled at currentVintage.  First off, Lia Tolaini-Banville was pouring Terlano “Vorberg” Pinot Bianco plus two Tuscan reds and Cesare was hand-carving 30-month cured prosciutto paired with Petticoat Row Bakery baguettes.  The prosciutto melted in your mouth like none other and the bread was perfectly chewy and delicious.  Next was our Veuve Clicquot champagne tasting and bottle signing with Dominique.  We held the same event last year and all who attended were euphoric over meeting the gentile winemaker and sampling the beautiful wines from his hands in such an intimate setting.  It was one giant photo op, as we took group pictures with Dominique and a 1931 Veuve yellow taxi.  That was last year–this year was a mob scene.  There was hardly time to pop the Grande Dame as festival goers and winemakers packed the house.  It was the largest turnout for a retail store of our size ever, according to Veuve, a testament to Dominique’s popularity and the majesty of Veuve Clicquot.

What next?  Oh, yes–it was opening night at Ventuno, the new Italian restaurant from the team behind Straight Wharf restaurant and Provisions.  The opening was hotly anticipated as it was in the former location of beloved island institution, 21 Federal.  Although the end of the 21 era provoked nostalgia, and even tears, the new reign offers excitement and imagination in its menu and wine list, both welcome on the Nantucket culinary scene.  It was a who’s who table, organized by Sarah Powers of Kobrand, including Mike Trujillo, winemaker of Sequoia Grove (and a few other prestigious properties), and Chris Silva, the charismatic, fun-loving CEO of St. Francis Winery.  Cesare guided us through the offerings, both food and wine, and we proceeded to order almost everything on the menu, sometimes twice.  Highlights from the intriguing and affordable wine list included the lovely Ceretti Arneis and dry, but layered GrosJean Freres Petite Arvine.  The pasta star of the table was most definitely braised rabbit strozzapretti, although I loved my whole wheat pasta with ramps, morels and ricotta, as well.  Teeth brushed and tucked in just before the clock struck 12.

Joel Gott at cV

Saturday–let the Grand Tasting begin!  currentVintage had a new location this year, sandwiched between Cain and Frog’s Leap in the cooking demo tent.  We showed our cV Signature RRV/Sonoma wines alongside vintage grape-themed jewelry from the 1930s-70s, both to unanimous (as much as we could hear) praise.  Between the Grand Tasting sessions, we hosted Joel Gott for a tasting & bottle signing of some of his favorite wines.  He threw in a fashion show, modeling western shirts and departing with a new addition to his wardrobe.

Joel Gott in his new old shirt

Saturday night, I attended a wine tasting party, featuring Bodega Chacra, Sequoia Grove and St. Francis paired with Pi Pizza and Pappardelle Bolognese from the Pasta Goddess.  Given the preceding 72 hours, I thought almost nothing could dazzle me, but the Sequoia Grove chard, St Francis VV Zin and trio of Bodega Chacra Patagonia Pinots totally wowed.  So did the charming Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, founder of Bodega Chacra and member of the Tuscan family that brought us Sassicaia.  His totally cool vibe and euro-style made it even more of a surprise that he’s crafting exceptional single-vineyard Pinot Noir in the hinterlands of Patagonia from 55-80 year old vines…we might have to go and visit.

The only thing that got me through Sunday was knowing that the next day was Monday.  We had another awesome day at the Grand Tasting and I got around to visit some old friends and savor some new wines, as well.  The grand tasting segued into a Sinskey Family BBQ at the Boarding House, where Rob Sinskey poured his Abraxas and POV and Maria grilled duck sliders.  And just to gild the lily, there was a NWF staff party that night at the Lombardi barn, featuring a veritable feast of roasts and pastas and 200 or so leftover bottles of wine.  I joined briefly to toast the team and sup with Ray Coursen of Elyse, and then, it was homeward to savor it all.

Veuve Girls with Dominique at currentVintage

Veuve Clicquot was on island in force last week, celebrating the the 200^th anniversary of the release of the first Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin (VCP) vintage champagne at the 14^th annual Nantucket Wine Festival.

Dominique Demarville on Nantucket Island

Dominique Demarville, the charismatic and handsome Chef-du-Cave or Cellar Master, was the guest of honor at numerous fetes, large and small, and never failed to dazzle all in attendance.  At barely 40 years old and only the tenth Cellar Master in over 230 years, Dominique is most likely at the beginning of a long reign at the illustrious, iconic label.

Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, aka “The Widow Clicquot”, was nothing short of a visionary, in that she released the first “vintage” champagne, changed the way champagne was made by developing the riddling rack to remove sediment, and created an international market for VCP by sending 10,000 bottles to Russia post-Napoleon.  Her  motto, “one quality only, the finest”, and entrepreneurial skills have been inspirational for generations—read all about her in the book, “The Widow Clicquot” by Tilar J. Mazzeo. It has been called “…an intoxicating business biography.” by Julia Flynn Siler of The Wall Street Journal.  Pun intended?

Not surprisingly, the plethora of events and opportunities to rub shoulders and clink glasses with Dominique left us at a loss for words, and so, we send him these love letters…and lift a glass to Madame Clicquot and her empire of bubbles.

Cher Dominique,

I so enjoyed your company throughout the Nantucket Wine Festival this past week.  The “Women of Nantucket in Wine” garden luncheon was a glorious treat—the elegant wines, the decadent meal, the spectacular setting and the powerful company combined with your charm and knowledge for a most memorable day.  Not to mention, the unforgettable 1985 Rare Vintage rosé with herbed lamb chops—sensationnel.

We were delighted to host you at currentVintage and appreciated you signing bottle after bottle for so many Veuve admirers.  The energy was contagious and the photos are a testament to how much fun we had!

The clambake was a lovely, casual way to wind-down-while-continuing-to-celebrate the week of wine. Lobster and La Grande Dame 1998?  Magnifique–I hope to repeat that one again soon!

Please know how much we admire your effort for artistry and quality on such a grand scale.  We look forward to the release of the Vintage 2007!

Avec toute mon affection,

Elisabeth

Dear Dominique,
May I offer that Champagne Veuve Clicquot was precisely the fitting way to celebrate and savor the finale of 14th annual Nantucket Wine Festival Great Wines in Grand Houses events?

The memory of the wines savored during yesterday’s brunch will bring pleasure to our guests (and me!) for a long time to come. Your passion and absolute dedication to both the House and your craft made each and every detail that you shared with us come to life!  The whole seemed to be coming straight from your heart, as you lead your guests to better understand and appreciate the subtleties of the superbly crafted wines being poured. I know we all will envision you, Chef du Cave going about your work, when next we uncork a bottle!
Thank you very sincerely for a truly unforgettable morning!
Best wishes for a delightful reunion with your family upon your return home.  I will hope to see you here on Nantucket again next year!

Adieu!

Lynn

Nantucket Wine Festival Great Wines in Grand Houses

May 23, 2010

Champagne Veuve Clicquot

Presented by Dominique Demarville, Cellar Master

Chef E. J. Harvey

The Seagrille, Nantucket

Dorothy Slover and Doug Kenward, Hosts

Reception

Island Creek Oysters, La Petite Pearle Caviar

Alaska Dungeness crab salad, pâte á choux

Beet and horseradish cured smoked salmon, cucumber crème fraîche, sesame cone

Nantucket egg scramble, asparagus, black truffle hollandaise

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label

1^st Course

Seared diver scallop

orange and carrot juice gastrique, pancetta, parmesan crisp

La Grande Dame 1998

2^nd course

Lobster, asparagus, Vermont goat cheese timbale

thyme and chive butter

Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2002 Rose

3^rd course

Seared veal tenderloin

Vermont morels, fiddleheads, roasted tomato cream

Grainy mustard späetzle

Veuve Clicquot Rare Vintage 1988 Blanc

Dessert course

Petite Pavlova

lemon curd crème fraîche, fresh berries, mint

Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec

Veuve Clicquot poolside luncheon

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