Cesare Casella and Elisabeth English

The 15th annual Nantucket Wine Festival has wrapped and the clinking of glassware subsided.  It was 5 wowza days of learning and meeting while having the most fun possible.   Most folks have now boarded a plane or boat to carry them home, while we business owners are working overtime to ready ourselves for Memorial Day weekend.  Where did those 5 days go?  It was kind of a blur…

Opening night at the White Elephant was a brief, but essential 2 hour party featuring Veuve Clicquot.  People were electrified for the start of the festival and elated that the gloomy weather prognosis was wrong, wrong, wrong.  My friend Cesare (Salumeria Rosi, NYC) and I continued the evening at The Pearl, where we had plate after plate of inventive morsels (and glass after glass of Veuve rosé) dining at the bar.  Like Cinderella, I was just barely home by midnight.

Farmstead cheese plate

Thursday began with a cheese course for breakfast and 6 glasses of wine.  Perhaps you would call it brunch, in that it was 10am, but breakfast sounds more outrageous and it was my first meal of the day.

I’m all for cheese for breakfast, anyway, but these were special cheeses, selected by Matt Jennings of Farmstead in Providence and Ihsan Gurdal of Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge and NYC.  It was billed as an Old World-New World “smackdown”, with Matt representing New World American farmstead cheese.  It was amazing how they each had selected, without prior consultation, plates of contrasting, but complimentary cheeses.  Our table loosely agreed that it was a tie for the most part, but for me, the New World Ascutney Mtn. raw cow’s milk  from Cobb Hill Farm commune in Vermont–golden yellow and rich, caramelized flavors–gave Matt the victory.

I followed my cheese & wine breakfast with a champagne lunch.  A rock star champagne lunch, actually, meaning the cuisine of Seth Raynor (Pearl, Boarding House, Corazon del Mar) paired with the champagnes of Veuve Clicquot in an exquisite outdoor setting.  It was the 2nd annual “Nantucket Women of Wine luncheon” hosted by Veuve, and Mother Nature must have been in full favor of the event.  It was a lovely opportunity to connect with other businesswomen from the Nantucket community and luxuriate in  food and wine splendor–French Kiss oysters poached in Grande Dame, Grande Dame-braised lobster and toasted vermicelli…!  Poor Dominique Demarville (Chef de Cave)–he arrived late, newly initiated to the troubles of fog, airlines and island transportation.

Of course, one does not ideally follow these two events by going to work for the rest of the day, but alas, duty calls.  It was a busy afternoon of visits and sales and before I knew it, it was time to pour at the Comte Senard table at the Nantucket Wine Festival Gala.  If I was to be behind one table and taste wines of only one winery for the entire evening, this was where I wanted to be.  One, because Beatrice Senard is so fabulous and chic, and two, because the wines were possibly the best of the night.  Beatrice greeted me with a welcome sip of Bourgogne Blanc and from there, we progressed to the Premier Cru Les Valozieres, and TROIS GRAND CRU….2009 Clos des Meix, 2007 Les Bressandes, 2006 Les Paulands.  What a pleasure!

I did manage to sneak a taste of Alex Gambal’s 2009 Puligny Montrachet from winemaker Fabrice Laronze en route to our table and also had a night cap of Tim Mondavis 2008 Continuum while noshing on porchetta from Salumeria Rosi.  From there, Mark and I joined Cesare and Lia Tolaini-Banville of Tolaini Estates for a late bite at Lola 41, before continuing on to the obligatory bottle of Veuve rosé at, where else, The Pearl.  I forfeited the Coach in lieu of the Pumpkin, and stopped by the Club Car for a midnight tune at the piano on the way home.

Dominique & Cesare

Nevertheless, Friday began at 5am, when my feline alarm clock encouraged me to rise.  It was a big day and there were preparations to be made;  we had two major wine events scheduled at currentVintage.  First off, Lia Tolaini-Banville was pouring Terlano “Vorberg” Pinot Bianco plus two Tuscan reds and Cesare was hand-carving 30-month cured prosciutto paired with Petticoat Row Bakery baguettes.  The prosciutto melted in your mouth like none other and the bread was perfectly chewy and delicious.  Next was our Veuve Clicquot champagne tasting and bottle signing with Dominique.  We held the same event last year and all who attended were euphoric over meeting the gentile winemaker and sampling the beautiful wines from his hands in such an intimate setting.  It was one giant photo op, as we took group pictures with Dominique and a 1931 Veuve yellow taxi.  That was last year–this year was a mob scene.  There was hardly time to pop the Grande Dame as festival goers and winemakers packed the house.  It was the largest turnout for a retail store of our size ever, according to Veuve, a testament to Dominique’s popularity and the majesty of Veuve Clicquot.

What next?  Oh, yes–it was opening night at Ventuno, the new Italian restaurant from the team behind Straight Wharf restaurant and Provisions.  The opening was hotly anticipated as it was in the former location of beloved island institution, 21 Federal.  Although the end of the 21 era provoked nostalgia, and even tears, the new reign offers excitement and imagination in its menu and wine list, both welcome on the Nantucket culinary scene.  It was a who’s who table, organized by Sarah Powers of Kobrand, including Mike Trujillo, winemaker of Sequoia Grove (and a few other prestigious properties), and Chris Silva, the charismatic, fun-loving CEO of St. Francis Winery.  Cesare guided us through the offerings, both food and wine, and we proceeded to order almost everything on the menu, sometimes twice.  Highlights from the intriguing and affordable wine list included the lovely Ceretti Arneis and dry, but layered GrosJean Freres Petite Arvine.  The pasta star of the table was most definitely braised rabbit strozzapretti, although I loved my whole wheat pasta with ramps, morels and ricotta, as well.  Teeth brushed and tucked in just before the clock struck 12.

Joel Gott at cV

Saturday–let the Grand Tasting begin!  currentVintage had a new location this year, sandwiched between Cain and Frog’s Leap in the cooking demo tent.  We showed our cV Signature RRV/Sonoma wines alongside vintage grape-themed jewelry from the 1930s-70s, both to unanimous (as much as we could hear) praise.  Between the Grand Tasting sessions, we hosted Joel Gott for a tasting & bottle signing of some of his favorite wines.  He threw in a fashion show, modeling western shirts and departing with a new addition to his wardrobe.

Joel Gott in his new old shirt

Saturday night, I attended a wine tasting party, featuring Bodega Chacra, Sequoia Grove and St. Francis paired with Pi Pizza and Pappardelle Bolognese from the Pasta Goddess.  Given the preceding 72 hours, I thought almost nothing could dazzle me, but the Sequoia Grove chard, St Francis VV Zin and trio of Bodega Chacra Patagonia Pinots totally wowed.  So did the charming Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, founder of Bodega Chacra and member of the Tuscan family that brought us Sassicaia.  His totally cool vibe and euro-style made it even more of a surprise that he’s crafting exceptional single-vineyard Pinot Noir in the hinterlands of Patagonia from 55-80 year old vines…we might have to go and visit.

The only thing that got me through Sunday was knowing that the next day was Monday.  We had another awesome day at the Grand Tasting and I got around to visit some old friends and savor some new wines, as well.  The grand tasting segued into a Sinskey Family BBQ at the Boarding House, where Rob Sinskey poured his Abraxas and POV and Maria grilled duck sliders.  And just to gild the lily, there was a NWF staff party that night at the Lombardi barn, featuring a veritable feast of roasts and pastas and 200 or so leftover bottles of wine.  I joined briefly to toast the team and sup with Ray Coursen of Elyse, and then, it was homeward to savor it all.

In the vineyard with Tim Mondavi, daughter Carissa, and Bayla of Continuum

GUESS WHO’S COMING TO THE NANTUCKET WINE FESTIVAL 2011?!

Oh, how we love the Nantucket Wine Festival…the annual ritual of welcoming old friends and making new ones—meaning, of course, people AND wines.  We’ve made many friends at the NWF through the years, and brought other friends to the event, both luminaries and patrons.  This January, Mark and I had the distinct honor of meeting Tim Mondavi and luring him to be the Nantucket Wine Festival Luminary of the Year.   His legacy as the winemaker for Robert Mondavi is laudable as is his impressive new label, Continuum Estate, and its commitment to excellence in winemaking.  Continuum makes “a single red wine produced with clarity of focus at the highest quality level”, a blend of varieties from the cabernet family, and aspires to the level of a first growth Bordeaux.

We have in stock or can order wines from any of these producers, including Continuum Estate.  Our selection is all the more compelling due to the inclusion of  these esteemed makers.  Offered here are some photos of the many friends of currentVintage–on both our turf and theirs.

Lunch with Tim and Carissa Mondavi

Alex Gambal in Beaune

Sean Larkin in currentVintage

Jack Larkin of Jack Larkin in cV

with Don & Joanne of Shibumi Knoll

John Arns and Sandy Belcher in currentVintage

with Ray Coursen at Elyse

Sonoma Coast lunch with David Hirsch

Maria and Rob Sinskey

Tyler Thomas, Donelan winemaker, at Cyrus

Michael & Fiona Ragg of Mischief & Mayhem at cV

Michel Anglada of Anglada-Deleger, in Beaune

Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton

with Kristen at Newton Vineyard

Hourglass

Seminar with Elton Sloane of Robert Craig Winery

Andy Peay pouring for me and Ziggy the Wine Gal

Magnificent Palmaz winery

Big Bottles at Miner Family

Cesare Casella, Chef-Owner Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto, NYC

Elisabeth on Thompson St in Soho

DAY 1

1 pm:  We landed at JFK and proceeded directly to Il Buco at 47 Bond St., for what would begin copious consumption of Italian food & drink over the next three days.

If the charming miss-matched farm house décor that inspired Nantucket’s Sfoglia isn’t enough, one whiff of the hearty aromas emerging from the kitchen and you’d understand why….

To Eat:

*Cavolonero Salad—A black kale Caesar

*An Olive oil tasting of various aged Umbrian and Sicilian oils

*Butternut squash polenta—to die for!

*Pappardelli with mint & zucchini—so fresh and yummy

To Drink:

A glass of Pecorino—a peculiar white wine from the Marche.  Full-bodied enough to stand up to a hearty luncheon, with enough mild acidity to cut the rich oils

CHECK IN:

Tribeca Grand—We were terrified checking in, fearing that upon seeing our “Booked on Priceline” status, the reservationist would stick us in a first floor room by the elevator.  But no, we were most delighted to be booked into a top floor room far from the elevator,  with terrific views of the rooftops of Tribeca.

It should be noted that the Tribeca Grand is a sister property of the Soho Grand and both are a bit of a scene.  Whereas at the Soho Grand, the scene is mainly in the bar, at the Tribeca Grand, the lobby IS the bar and, being an atrium hotel, you can look down at (AND HEAR) the bar from every floor.  Since the hotel is only 8 floors high, every room, while being quite spacious, has the potential to be a noise nightmare, given the atrium design.  However, the TG cleverly has white noise speakers mounted above the hallway entrance to each room and another mounted above the doorway inside the room.  So, no matter what the chaos is down below, you will be pleasantly oblivious.

I was afraid the TG would be a little tired, since it’s days as a hot hot spot have passed, but it still draws an interesting mix of European and domestic travelers and we found it to be plenty boutique-y. and an awesome location.

ERRANDS:

Carmine St Shoe Repair—I dropped off a bag of shoes & boots in various states of disrepair to Michael, as I do every trip to NYC.  I rented a lace on Carmine St for a month a few years back, and he still thinks I live in the neighborhood.  No matter how many pairs I bring, they are always ready the next day.  One of the many things I love about nyc.

Crown Jewelers, W. 8^th St at 6th Ave—I stayed at the Washington Square Hotel for a couple of weeks once and this became my home away from home jeweler.  They have resuscitated and strengthened a number of my estate finds.

NYFD Bull

PRE-THEATRE BEVERAGE:

Marseille, 9th Ave & 44th–Lucky for me, my Godparents from NC were also in nyc.  They are Uptown-types, so we met in Hell’s Kitchen for a toast at this French Brasserie in the Theatre District and caught up at the bustling bar.

THEATRE:

God of Carnage—The Tony-winning all star cast ends their run in the month of November.  While there are a lot of talented people in the world, I cannot imagine another ensemble as tight or with the chemistry (as they self-destruct) of this one featuring Marcia Gay Harden, James Gandolfino, Hope Davis and Jeff Daniels. It became very clear to me why Marcia Gay won the Tony.  Catch it while you can.

DINNER:

Locanda Verde, 377 Greenwich St (corner of N.Moore and Greenwich)—Ken Friedman (Spotted Pig, Rusty Knot) and Robert De Niro’s new place in the Greenwich Hotel.  Gorgeous high ceiling, exposed brick and giant paned windows; swish, but casual.  Tiny round bar tables could barely hold all we wanted to eat & drink.  We were pleased to see the sommelier who we met at Cru last winter.

*Cotechino Sausage crostino with pickled ramps on ciabatta

*Pumpkin Agnolotti with brown butter, sage and amaretti

*Roasted Brussels Sprouts with pancetta and pecorino

*Giant rigatoni stuffed with a duck ragu

To Drink:

06 JERMANN Mjzzu ‘Blau & Blau’ (Italy)–90% Franconia, a.k.a. Blau-fraenkisch, and 10% Pinot Nero or Blauburgunder (hence the name).  Elegant & harmonious; slightly fruity with a hint of herb and menthol.  Perfect with the slightly sweet Fall flavors of our meal.

DAY 2

BREAKFAST:

Room Service—coffee and oatmeal w/ bananas

11am:  currentVintage buying appt.

07 GALIL Sauvignon Blanc, Israel

LUNCH:

Capsouto Fréres, 451 Washington St

Charming, old school restaurant with white tablecloths and waiters in black vests with crisp white shirts & aprons.  They are known for an awesome variety of soufflés and an unusually large selection of Israeli wines.

To Eat:

Wild Mushroom & Cheese Soufflé

Salade Nicoise

Fig Soufflé with crème Anglaise & coffee

To Drink:

07 GALIL Sauvignon Blanc, Galilee

Even knowing that CF is known for their Israeli wine list, I was reluctant to try this sauvignon blanc.  I wasn’t sure it would stand up to and/or complement the rich fare…and, I wanted something plus francaise.  Nevertheless, our practically mute waiter nearly insisted that I should have this and I did, and he was so right!

Interesting and fuller-bodied, citrusy & herbaceous with a subtle mineral backbone; it was like none other that I have enjoyed. It was delicious.

3pm:  Apple Store, Prince St, Soho:  I think of some reason to have an appt. at this store every time I go to nyc, even if the appt is at midnight!  It’s just such a cool place and there is an army of young, passionate Apple people to help with your quest for whatever.

This time I got the 3Gs, but other free appointments have been to learn how to sync my phone & computer, etc.

5pm:  Hair Salon—Carmine St, again.  $25 and better than Frederic Fekkai

DRINKS & DINNER:

Crosby Hotel—Owned by a boutique hotel group from London, the Crosby had just opened a few days before.  The décor is English quirky & eccentric:  outsider, folk and modern art, such as a wall-mounted installation of vintage telephones.  The scale keeps it from feeling cluttered.  We enjoyed overpriced wine and beverages at the uncomfortable low Indian mirrored tables and at the comfortable grand bar on luxe bar stools.

Civetta, 98 Kenmare (near Crosby; betw Mulberry & Centre). Friends Ron and Colleen Suhanosky who own Sfoglia in Nantucket and New York are consulting partners in this homey but swank Italian eatery in Nolita.

Downstairs drinks in the red velvet-curtained lounge in a semi-private booth were comfy and easy with excellent service, even if the bar was a bit of a décor disconnect from the restaurant upstairs.

To Eat:

Once we were seated, we were treated like Royalty, which is always nice.

Arancini with sausage & fontina, Mussels w/ fennel, Lemony Risotto, Orgasmic Bolognese.  As if that wasn’t enough, they had the nerve to send out a tablefull of sinful desserts, which were all amazing, from what I can remember.

DAY 3

BREAKFAST:

Room Service—coffee and oatmeal w/ bananas

11am–Fort Greene Flea Market—We went ALL THE WAY TO BROOKLYN and what a mistake.  It was freezing cold and threatening rain, so any vendor with a brain was at home or at the movies.  Only about a dozen vendors showed up, which were mostly interesting, but the whole experience including tamales lasted about 20 minutes.

Errands—The Chinese “wholesale only” store on 28^th St. that sells boxes of 24 blinking bling rings for $12.

LUNCH:
Joe’s Shanghai, Pell St (betw. Mott & Bowery)—the famous, delicious, perfect for a cold blustery day soup buns…yum.  So unbelievably savory good and so ridiculously inexpensive.  Even a can of diet coke is only a $1.

4pm:  Facial with May at the Styling House, across the street from Joe’s.  $45 facial ($65 with collagen).

Lie down on the least comfortable terry towel-covered cot in the back room of the salon for 2+ hours of tending and maintenance and you will walk out looking 10 years (or so) younger.  Sometimes, it is significantly more than 2 hours, because there are two cots and she does two at a time.

OPERA:

Tosca at Lincoln Center—Majestic setting for world class talent and sophisticated, international patrons.  The pageantry and grandiosity are spellbinding, but three Acts is a lot for my weary self.

Cesare Casella, Owner Salumeria Rosi

DINNER:

Salumeria Rosi, 283 Amsterdam Ave. (73rd / 74th St)—My friend Cesare Casella’s place; it is chic but cozy, and spot on in every way.  Cesare is also the Dean of the Italian Culinary Institute!

To Eat:

Pontormo salad of greens and scrambled eggs, antipasto platters of salumi and cheese, heirloom bean salad. This is THE PLACE for salumi and cheese and beans;  don’t miss the Il Parmacotto prosciutto (eel PAHR-mah-KOH-to).  This is also the place for the best lasagne I have ever had—AND, it is in an appetizer portion—how awesome is that at midnight?

To Drink:

I always dine at the tiny little bar, where you can see each bottle of wine available by the glass and discuss little tastes of each with the super fun and knowledgeable (and handsome) Rafael, til you find what you’re looking for.

NIGHT CAP:

A late-night glass of Perrier Jouet in the VIP hotel guest section at the Tribeca Grand.  Saturday night is not exactly locals night (and maybe no night is at the TG), but it was nice to have a spacious, comfortable spot from which to watch the goings on.

DAY 4

BREAKFAST:

Room Service: coffee, oatmeal

12pm:  JFK:(

http://www.salumeriarosi.com/experience_experience.php

http://www.ilbuco.com/

http://locandaverdenyc.com/