White glove courtesy at Veuve Clicquot

Veuve Cliquot has over 400 still wines in reserve to use in the intricate composition of its flagship Yellow label champagne

In October 2011, I was invited to Champagne by Veuve Clicquot, along with 3 champagne-o-phile friends from Nantucket.  As I mentioned in my previous post, we did not waste a minute from the moment our chauffered car arrived…Day 1 was sightseeing and tastings with grower champagnes Pierre Peters and Rene Geoffroy;  Day 2 was a lavish luncheon at Veuve Clicquot & a tasting + dinner with Ruinart;  Day 3 was Piper-Heidsieck & lunch in Reims before our happy, bubbly-filled bellies departed for Beaune.

The VCP hospitality was most grande pour les dames!  Undoubtedly, one of the highlights of my 2+ week trip to France was our time spent with Dominique Demarville, Cellar Master of Veuve Clicquot.   It’s hard to say which was more interesting–the tasting of still wines with Dominique in the lab or the magnificent luncheon in our honor at Clicquot’s newly renovated Hotel du Marc.  We started with La Grande Dame 2004 and hors d’oeuvres in the study and, mon Dieu, it was “pinch me” at every course.  The wines, the food, the company, the sumptuous surroundings, the engaging conversation–it was an epic occasion.

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words…

A tasting of still wines including the 2011 vintage of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier and numerous others, including a remarkably vibrant 1988 Cramant Grand Cru

Grafitti covered bottles of La Grand Dame

Hôtel du Marc luncheon with Dominique Demarville

VCP luncheon at Hotel du Marc

Decanting (!) into Baccarat

1980!!

Susan Handy, proprietor of The Chanticleer, Nantucket

Foosball at Veuve Clicquot

Epic luncheon at Veuve Clicquot

La Grande Dame 2004 with Dominique Demarville

Veuve Clicquot's Hotel du Marc

Menu of an epic luncheon...

Crayeres of Veuve Clicquot

Vintage champagne crates at Veuve Clicquot

Fun at Veuve Clicquot:)

Time for a cold bottle at Veuve Clicquot

Amazing graphics at Veuve Clicquot

Veuve Clicquot stairway of vintages

Champagne Crossing

In October, I flew overnight to France, where I met up with 3 champagne-savvy friends from Nantucket and off we sped to the city of Reims for an epic Champagne adventure…We dropped our bags at Hotel du la Paix and Carlos, our driver, delivered us to La Banque in Epernay, for a bit of sustenance for our impending journey.

Le déjeuner

It was only 6am Eastern Time and I was deliriously tired, but, when in Rome…we had champagne with lunch.  Fortified in more ways than one, we were ready for our first appointment in the Valle de la Marne, with Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy of Champagne House RENE GEOFFROY, a grower-producer in in Ay.

Nantucket girls with Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy

The Geoffroy family established their champagne house in the 17th century, yet even with such a legacy of tradition, Jean-Baptiste is an innovator.  J-B showed us the rather un-embellished facility, which included a cool old-school wooden press and a fully automated bottling line, and then the important work of champagne tasting through the seven cuvées began…including two stellar and distinctly different Rosés–different from each other and from most other champagnes!  Neither is a blend, as is traditional in Champagne;  one is a rosé de saignée, made from bleeding off the juice during the maceration of pinot noir grapes.

Geoffroy Blanc de Rose

The other, “Blanc de Rose”, is a one of a kind–a maceration of pinot noir and chardonnay, together in the same tank. The marriage of the chardonnay and pinot noir juices in contact with the skins of the two varietals is a first of its kind in Champagne!  The former (available at currentVintage) is a serious and seductive wine, deserving of a fine food pairing;  the latter is fresher and lighter, although far from simple–a lovely summer sipper.  The other bottlings we tried were various blends of the three champagne varietals:  Pinot noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.  Making champagne, even more so than wine, is equal parts chemistry and artistry.  This “business” of tasting just doesn’t get old!

Rodolphe Peters, 4th generation winemaker

From there, Carlos ferried us down to Champagne Pierre Peters in Le Mesnil sur Oger.  There, the story is Grand Cru chardonnay.  The wines are pure and sophisticated;  they stood in equally complex but delightful contrast to the blends at Geoffroy.   Rodolphe Peters, a fourth generation winemaker (and seventh generation grower), hosted our visit.  It began routinely, with polite introductions, but soon our enthusiasm for bubbles sent him back to the cellar for bottle after bottle–including an enchanting mystery wine, which we happily puzzled over (a golden, honeyed 1990!).  The champagnes at Pierre Peters include from 14-20 vintages of still wine, however the goal is to produce a wine that speaks of the vintage, rather than a house style.  It was fascinating sampling two cuvees from the same four plots only a year apart.  One was tart, lithe & sexy, the other smoky with cinnamon spice.  The % of each vineyard varied significantly, as well as the dosage, but the side by sides were still an excellent example in what the different plots bring to the ultimate blend and the influence of Mother Nature.  The blanc des blancs at Peters were all weighty & yeasty, but not at all dense.  They had a lightness that was counter-intuitive to the first sip.  Rodolphe was full of pithy quotes and I could hardly scribble them fast enough…He said, “My best job is in the vineyard, not in the cellar”, referring to the importance of growing.  “Champagne is white wine made with red berries.  We are not looking for the same maturity as Burgundy.”–(This from a chardonnay grower).  “Behind every wine, there is a soil and a local man who makes it”.  And thus is the point of “Grower Champagnes”.  From vineyard to lab to cellar to bottle, these are hands-on, nurtured, cultivated & crafted expressions of place with a kiss of winemaker style.

Rodolphe said ‘you have to walk alone’–a path happily more and more growers seem to be following.  To be continued…!

Nantucket girls being tourists

Dom Perignon Tombstone

Original label art by Jean-Baptiste's wife

Lab at Geoffroy

Temps at Geoffroy

Bottling in action

Pierre Peters

Ready to ship to cV

By appt only

Press at Rene Geoffroy

Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy

corks at Pierre Peters

Champagne Pierre Peters

Cramant

Fall in Champagne

Rudi Rudi Rudi…I like to say Rudi three times fast, not unlike Barney Phife.

1963 Rudi Gernreich wool knit swimsuit

And there are at least three things that you probably already know about controversial 1960s designer Rudi Gernreich.  His muse was the raccoon-eyed gamine Peggy Moffitt.  He’s the one that created the “Monokini” (think topless) swimsuit–see iconic photo of Peggy below.  He was famous for his futuristic clothing using vinyl & plastic before even Paco Rabanne.

Last week, I visited the “Sporting Life” exhibit at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in NYC (AND the jaw-dropping Daphne Guinness show).  The sporting exhibit showed both the origins of women’s athletic and swimwear (not pretty) and the influence sports have had on fashion (think duck boot Manolos).  As they point out, why do you think it is called “Sportswear”.  Imagine my delight when, among the woolen knickers and tunics, there was a Rudi Gernreich patchwork knit tanksuit, dated 1963.  As a lover of 1960s and Rudi and Courreges and the gang, I was elated to see the cool swimsuit included.  Even more exciting was the fact that we have a Rudi Gernreich dress at cV from the same 1963 collection!  I was able to assemble a few other images from that season’s lookbook.  Let’s hope that next year FIT will feature an all Rudi show…

1963 Rudi dress at cV!

1963 RG Collection

Rudi Gernreich swimsuit 1963

TIME 1967

Rudi Gernreich's Monokini

As a sommelier, I do a lot of wait staff wine training.  Many people think that this means we drink all afternoon, but in reality, there is a good amount of discussion with an open forum question/answer period .  One of the many things that I stress with the servers is that ANYTHING on the label is fair game for a guest to ask them about.  That includes the family’s coat of arms, the small scribble that is the owner’s daughter’s name, the RM on a champagne bottle or something as simple as just the name of the wine.

More often, however, a guest doesn’t quiz you so much on these finer details, but on a word that might be foreign to them (literally–it is often in another language!).  For those in the business that need a little education on some wine terms (and for those NOT in the business that want to stump your server), here are a few wine terms defined that you may see the next time you encounter a bottle of wine.

SUR LIE:  French term that literally translates to ‘on lees’ – these wines are aged on the deposits of dead yeast cells and bottled without racking (separating the wine from the lees)

MONOPOLE: Think of the game Monopoly, when you hold all the Title Deeds in a color group– a vineyard with a single owner

CLARET:  This is a British name for a Bordeaux wine and can be used as a semi-generic term for a ride wine made in a Bordeaux style

VIEILLES VIGNES (VV): French term that means ‘old vines’ although there is no legal definition as to how old the vines need to be in order to have them called as such

BLANC DE BLANCS: A term used for Champagne that signifies the wine is white and made only from white grapes (in this case it would be Chardonnay)

Seen something on a label recently and don’t know what it means?  Let us know and we can help decipher that label for you!–Jenny Benzie

Is that a 2X4 that I smell in my glass?

Wine tasting notes will often refer to wines as being oaky, but what exactly does that mean?  The use of oak in winemaking can play an important role in the final product in several different ways.

First of all, you must consider the source of the wood.  Most American oak barrels typically come from the species Quercus alba, which is a white oak species.  This oak has wider grains and lower wood tannins.  The wider grains allows for a quicker, more concentrated release of aromas into the wine.  American oak typically imparts flavors of vanilla and more sweet nuances, along with coconut (think sunscreen) and dill (think pickles).  This oak is used for big, powerful reds and for Chardonnays from warmer climates.

In France, Quercus petrea is more common for its finer grain and richer aromatic components.   French oak produces silky, softer style tannins.  Warm sensations such as baking spices (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg) are more apparent with this type of wood.  In France, some winemakers choose their wood from one specific forest as they each forest will have slightly different nuances on the final blend.  Due to the finer grain of French oak, less of the tree may be used in barrel production.  Therefore, the cost of French barrels is more than that of American barrels.

Others types of oak are sometimes used including Hungarian, Slovanian and even Russian oak from near the Black Sea.  These barrels tend to be less expensive alternatives that either French or American oak.

Another varying degree of oak barrels is the amount of ‘toast’ inside the barrel.  Yes, it’s the same concept of when you ‘toast’ a piece of bread (not the toast at your friend’s wedding…).  Toasting ranges from lightly charred, medium toast, to heavily toasted.  The lighter the toasting, the more of the original oak flavor is imparted on the wine, where the heavier the toast, you see a reduction in the coconut notes and perhaps a slight reduction in the color of the wine as it reacts to the toastiness of the barrel.

The size of a barrel is important to take into consideration in regards to the ratio of surface area to volume.  The most common size is the Bordeaux barrique which hold 59 gallons (225 liters).  The next most common is the Burgundy barrique at 60 gallons (228 liters).  Some wine producers will use a foudre, a large barrel made of oak (or chestnut) and used in other parts of France, that can range in size from 150-350 hectoliters.  These large vessels are used more to age the wine than for the qualities the wood may impart on the wine itself.  On the smaller side, often used by home winemakers are mini-barrels which may hold 1-10 liters of juice.

This takes us to the age of a barrel and it’s varying effects.  The first time a barrel is used, it provides a wine with good texture and a substantial amount of tannins.  With each subsequent years the barrel is in use, the nuances that it offers become less and less.  Some wineries will only use 100% new oak every year (now you know why that wine costs so much!).  Others will use the barrel up to three years, then scrap the inside of the barrel, retoast it to their specifications, then put it back into rotation.  Some only used ’seasoned’ barrels (those who have been used several years without a retoasting) and refer to them as neutral barrels that will impart very little on their wine, but do allow it to age with a slight exposure to oxygen.

Next time you are tasting your wine and feel like you are in the forest, think about all these factors about barrels that the winemaker takes into consideration when crafting their product.–Jenny Benzie

Elisabeth with Denis Toner (center) at Francois Freres

Kistler oak at Francois Freres

Toasted barrels

Sommelier Jenny Benzie on DISCOVERING REGIONALLY SPECIFIC WINES FROM AUSTRALIA:

When dining at a favorite restaurant or browsing the shelves of the local neighborhood wine store, US consumers are still looking for a great value in their wine selection with so many choices available to them these days.  Value regions that may come to mind typically lie on the outskirts of more well-known regions:

Pernand Vergelleses is next to Corton-Charlemagne, you can’t get to Montsant without going through Priorat and Sant’Antimo  has no problem having so many wine ‘cousins’ in Tuscany.  This regional recognition for lesser-known wine regions is common for most Old World wines, but not so easily discernable for New World wines that highlight grape varietal first in their labeling regime versus promotion of a regional designation.   This type of labeling and promotion is the beginning of many challenges that Australian wines have in marketing regionally specific wines to the US market.

Americans’ perception, in general, of what they think represents the Australian wine industry is not a fair cross-reference of what is truly available to them.  Preconceived notions of Australian wine can range from consumers general ignorance that not all riesling is sweet and not all shiraz is over-the-top to the misconception that Australia only offers low priced, poor quality exports that do not evoke a sense of place.   This lack of awareness for regional character, variety and quality leads them to have a false image and identity of Australian wines.  Americans are unaware of the amazing white wines from Australia and how they compare to their international counterparts: the well-balanced, elegant Chardonnays of Margaret River in comparison to white Burgundy, the dry rieslings of Eden Valley up against some of the best from Austria’s Wachau and the classic, under-appreciated Semillons of the Hunter Valley.  The image of Australian reds is seen as big, heavy, rich and concentrated.  However, this is not the case for many reds that are available: Pinot Noir from Pemberton that may be confused as a red burgundy in a blind tasting, the Rhône-style cool climate Shiraz/Viognier wines from Yarra Valley and the distinctive earthiness of a Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon.  While these wines may be known to the wine buyers and sommeliers around the world, little has been translated that these wines are the first recommendations out of their mouths to consumers.

So how can you learn more about these regionally specific wines that Australia has to offer?  Ask your respected wine professional to recommend these types of wines so you can try them.  Have the sommelier or wine store merchant share with you the stories about the history of the people who have produced wines from these locations, being able to discuss the terroir from where the grapes are grown and emit a passion about the final product of wine itself.  Truth in labeling laws and emphasis on where the wine came from in these small areas will help consumers to recognize place of origin with the grape variety.  Be open to the innovative packaging that is developed and tested in Australia as it should be seen as an asset to the industry where US consumers are able to easily access these wines without having to use a special tool to open the bottle, box or wine pouch.

No one would ever think to take a wine tour around the entire United States of America, much less all of California.  Much is the same for Australia in that wine regions need to be divided, recognized and absorbed for each of their parts that make up the entire sum of its wine nation.  Promoting wine tourism is an invaluable tool to bring US consumers to the source of what Australia has to offer in the wine industry – you get to see the terrain and feel the climate, understand the geographic differences of each region and why certain grapes thrive better in some regions versus others, along with sampling the wine with local cuisine created by new, emerging talented chefs from Down Under.

By continuing to discuss the regional differences in Australian wines and how they relate to more familiar regions, US consumers are then given a frame of reference and a comfort level that allows them to feel safe in further exploration of what Australian wines truly do have to offer.–Jenny Benzie

currentVintage recommends:

Hope Estate Chardonnay, Hunter Valley (New South Wales), 2009, $15

95% Chardonnay and 5% Semillon;  Barrel-fermented with a restrained use of new oak.

Betts & Scholl Riesling, Eden Valley (South Australia), 2008, $30

The Wine Spectator 92 points: ‘Light, crisp and beautifully focused, with cantaloupe, papaya and lime flavors that bounce easily across the palate and into the long, fragrant finish. Subtle and absolutely enticing. Drink now through 2016. 250 cases imported.’ Nov 2008

More from cV on Betts & Scholl

Mollydooker Shiraz “Blue Eyed Boy”, South Australia, 2009, $54

Wine Advocate:
‘The 2009 Blue Eyed Boy Shiraz is a 20% Langhorne Creek and 80% McLaren Vale blend matured in 71% new and 29% 1 year American oak. Very deep garnet-purple colored, it is profoundly scented of blueberry and black cherry with touches of mint, mocha and the faintest whiff of damp loam. Very full-bodied, the bold, ultra-ripe fruit is well supported by medium-firm chewy tannins and medium-high acid, leading to a very long and pure if slightly warm finish. Drink this one 2012 to 2017+.’ – 92 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, www.erobertparker.com

Wine Spectator :
‘Rich and ripe, with a burnt edge to the spice and dried tomato flavors that remain strong against the blueberry and plum fruit. The tannins are well-meshed. Best from 2012 through 2018. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.’ – 91 points, Harvey Steiman, www.winespectator.com

We Love Shiraz:
‘The 2009 Blue Eyed Boy is 100% Shiraz from the Mollydooker Home Block Vineyard and Langhorne Creek Vineyards. The wine has an intoxicating spicy nose with hints of blackberry and strawberry. In the mouth the wine fully coated my palate with velvety tannins and flavors of plum, chocolate, coffee and blackberry. The purity of this wine was amazing. It was a unified presentation of fruit with a complex flavor profile. The lasting finish had evolving flavors that begged me to take another sip. This is the best Blue Eyed Boy (BEB) I have ever tasted.’ – 98 points, Brian Pasch, www.weloveshiraz.com

More from cV on Mollydooker

Jenny Benzie is the owner of Pour Sip Savor, a forward thinking wine business in which she is able to provide ‘An Assemblage of Sommelier Services’ by creating wine education opportunities for consumers, private client wine services, restaurant wine list consulting and brand ambassador to wine regions from around the world.  Her sommelier expertise has been honed by working at some of the finest establishments – Caneel Bay Resort in St. John, Michael’s in Santa Monica, Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach and The Pearl on Nantucket.

Every year has a new season, as they say in baseball, and the same can be found true for every vineyard and wine region in the world.  You might wonder how to demystify wine and bring it down to this type of every day level that we see in the wide world of sports.  This seems like an easy question to answer for me – read about it a little each day.

You pick up your ‘sports section’ and you see who won the game last night.  Highest scorer (Wine Spectator, anyone?), best of show (been to any wine fairs lately?), the names and uniforms changes (if the grape really isn’t in Napa, then how can you can you use that location in its name?).  And what about the recent steroid usage issues that we have seen in the news lately…sounds like genetically modified grapes to me.

By reading into some wine websites (like people watch SportsCenter) every evening as you unwind with a glass of wine after work, you can learn a little something each day.  Eventually, you know who the big players are, where they came from and what school they attended, who their teammates are, when were they drafted, have they ever been traded and just what is their batting average.  Maybe they played in an international league before settling into life in Napa Valley.  You follow your favorite professional athlete, now start to follow your favorite wine professional.  Sometimes they fumble, other times they score a homerun.  And you as the fan want to learn more about your favorite ‘team’ to impress your friends with trivia at the wine bar late at night!

Wine is something that is available for everyone.  Whether you are on a budget and choose the cheap seats at the game, decide to sit along the baseline to see the wine being made or you have season tickets and entertain in your sports box at every home game, you decide how you get your money’s worth out of your wine experience.  Switching from wooden bats (or barrels) to aluminum (stainless steel tanks)?  How dare they mess with the tradition of replacing corks with Stelvin screw closures!  Are half bottles considered minor leagues and magnums the World Series?  (Did you ever notice how they all celebrate with champagne at the end anyway?!?)  And what about all the great wine accessories that you can buy to decorate your house?  Who is your favorite grape mascot now?

I think you get the picture, just take it one day at a time.  Eventually, before you know it, you will be the one who knows all about the different vintages, which company bought out which team and who are the rising stars that make it all happen for us.

So, if you aren’t able to make it to the Red Sox game this Friday, come join us at cV for our weekly wine tasting where you get to sample a few of the wines you keep reading about!

–Jenny Benzie

Jenny Benzie is the owner of Pour Sip Savor, a forward thinking wine business in which she is able to provide ‘An Assemblage of Sommelier Services’ by creating wine education opportunities for consumers, private client wine services, restaurant wine list consulting and brand ambassador to wine regions from around the world.  Her sommelier expertise has been honed by working at some of the finest establishments – Caneel Bay Resort in St. John, Michael’s in Santa Monica, Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach and The Pearl on Nantucket.

According to cV Sommelier Jenny Benzie (Founder of Pour, Sip, Savor! Sommelier Services), here are 3 Ghastly Mistakes To Avoid If You Are Hosting A Wine Tasting…

So, you’ve invited a group of friends over, everyone is bringing a bottle and you want to make sure your wine tasting event occurs without any ‘flaws.’  Below are a few mistakes to avoid if you are hosting a wine tasting event to ensure you get a ‘Gold Medal!’

Dirty glassware can cause your wine tasting event to go from ‘Brilliant’ to ‘Dull.’  Here are a few tips to ensure clean glasses:

• Don’t just pull the glasses from your cabinet or a box – they will have a stale, cardboard smell.
• Don’t wash your glasses with soapy water – this can leave a film.
• Never use a paper towel to dry your glasses – this will leave an ‘off’ odor in the glass (and lint!).
• Rinse your glasses with warm water and gently dry by hand with a polishing cloth.

How can you identify what’s in the glass with distracting smells all around you?  Here are a couple of ideas to keep your wine tasting area odor-free:

• Do not burn any candles or have plug-in air fresheners in the room.
• Ask your guests (and you!) to refrain from wearing perfume, cologne, after-shave or other scented personal products.
• Do not use chemicals or scented cleaning products on the table where you will be tasting.
• And NO SMOKING!

While some like ‘hot’ tea or ‘iced’ coffee, seldom do they like ‘warm’ white wine or ‘too cold’ red wine.  Some helpful information on correct temperatures to serve wine:

• Champagne and Sparkling wines: 41-45 degrees F
• Lighter, more delicate whites: 45-50 degrees F; Heavier white wines: 50-55 degrees F.
• Lighter style reds: 55-59 degrees F; Full-bodied reds: 59-64 degrees F

It is easier to ‘warm’ a wine by cupping the glass in your hands than it is to ‘chill’ the wine by diluting it with ice cubes (gasp!).

That’s it for the tips. I hope you’ve found them helpful.  Remember, wine tasting should be an enjoyable experience and hopefully this advice will help you in preparing your own event!

Alex Gambal in Beaune

A long-time island friend and favorite winemaker, our selection of Burgundies would not be complete without offering something from the only American who now owns parcels in the Grand Cru Batard-Montrachet!  All of his wines are fermented by indigenous yeasts, racked only once and bottled by gravity without filtration.  According to Alex, ‘the superb 2009 vintage is a benchmark in the maturation of this fine little Burgundy house.’

To drink or to keep, you decide….just don’t wait too long!

St Aubin ‘Les Murgers des Dents du Chien’ 1er Cru $50

From one of the most famous climats from this small region located next to Chassagne-Montrachet, this wine offers what a village level wine from its next door neighbor does at a fraction of the the price.  Soft citrus and orchard fruit, rich flavors with medium acidity, slightly linear but with a lingering finish.

Suggested Pairing:

Sea Scallops with fresh corn salsa

Puligny Montrachet, $68

A straight-forward village wine that offers hints of soft toasty oak and citrus notes, mostly lime zest.  Fresh and vibrant, this wine is a perfect pairing for the abundant seafood available on the island.  Be sure to save a bottle to pair with Nantucket Bay scallops with a celery purée in the months ahead.

Suggested Pairing:

Lobster!  Lobster!  Lobster!

Bourgogne Rouge “Cuvee des Deux Papis” $30

Alex does it again with a sophisticated single-village wine worth its’ price!  Perfumed nose of spiced red berry that lead to bright middle weight flavors on the palate.  Perfect for those sometimes chilly nights when the fog starts to roll in before we are ready to receive it.

Suggested Pairing:

Salmon with roasted shiitakes

Chambolle Musigny, $70

Perfume of red berries on the nose  and a silky flow of soft, fading  tannins on the palate.  This is a wine that any Pinot Noir lover will appreciate.  Buy a couple bottles for your collection and reap the benefits of aging this wine a few years.

Suggested Pairing:

Coq au Vin, Roast Chicken with potatoes Dauphine