ANYTHING ON THE WINE LABEL IS FAIR GAME…

As a sommelier, I do a lot of wait staff wine training.  Many people think that this means we drink all afternoon, but in reality, there is a good amount of discussion with an open forum question/answer period .  One of the many things that I stress with the servers is that ANYTHING on the label is fair game for a guest to ask them about.  That includes the family’s coat of arms, the small scribble that is the owner’s daughter’s name, the RM on a champagne bottle or something as simple as just the name of the wine.

More often, however, a guest doesn’t quiz you so much on these finer details, but on a word that might be foreign to them (literally–it is often in another language!).  For those in the business that need a little education on some wine terms (and for those NOT in the business that want to stump your server), here are a few wine terms defined that you may see the next time you encounter a bottle of wine.

SUR LIE:  French term that literally translates to ‘on lees’ – these wines are aged on the deposits of dead yeast cells and bottled without racking (separating the wine from the lees)

MONOPOLE: Think of the game Monopoly, when you hold all the Title Deeds in a color group– a vineyard with a single owner

CLARET:  This is a British name for a Bordeaux wine and can be used as a semi-generic term for a ride wine made in a Bordeaux style

VIEILLES VIGNES (VV): French term that means ‘old vines’ although there is no legal definition as to how old the vines need to be in order to have them called as such

BLANC DE BLANCS: A term used for Champagne that signifies the wine is white and made only from white grapes (in this case it would be Chardonnay)

Seen something on a label recently and don’t know what it means?  Let us know and we can help decipher that label for you!–Jenny Benzie

Is that a 2X4 that I smell in my glass?

Wine tasting notes will often refer to wines as being oaky, but what exactly does that mean?  The use of oak in winemaking can play an important role in the final product in several different ways.

First of all, you must consider the source of the wood.  Most American oak barrels typically come from the species Quercus alba, which is a white oak species.  This oak has wider grains and lower wood tannins.  The wider grains allows for a quicker, more concentrated release of aromas into the wine.  American oak typically imparts flavors of vanilla and more sweet nuances, along with coconut (think sunscreen) and dill (think pickles).  This oak is used for big, powerful reds and for Chardonnays from warmer climates.

In France, Quercus petrea is more common for its finer grain and richer aromatic components.   French oak produces silky, softer style tannins.  Warm sensations such as baking spices (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg) are more apparent with this type of wood.  In France, some winemakers choose their wood from one specific forest as they each forest will have slightly different nuances on the final blend.  Due to the finer grain of French oak, less of the tree may be used in barrel production.  Therefore, the cost of French barrels is more than that of American barrels.

Others types of oak are sometimes used including Hungarian, Slovanian and even Russian oak from near the Black Sea.  These barrels tend to be less expensive alternatives that either French or American oak.

Another varying degree of oak barrels is the amount of ‘toast’ inside the barrel.  Yes, it’s the same concept of when you ‘toast’ a piece of bread (not the toast at your friend’s wedding…).  Toasting ranges from lightly charred, medium toast, to heavily toasted.  The lighter the toasting, the more of the original oak flavor is imparted on the wine, where the heavier the toast, you see a reduction in the coconut notes and perhaps a slight reduction in the color of the wine as it reacts to the toastiness of the barrel.

The size of a barrel is important to take into consideration in regards to the ratio of surface area to volume.  The most common size is the Bordeaux barrique which hold 59 gallons (225 liters).  The next most common is the Burgundy barrique at 60 gallons (228 liters).  Some wine producers will use a foudre, a large barrel made of oak (or chestnut) and used in other parts of France, that can range in size from 150-350 hectoliters.  These large vessels are used more to age the wine than for the qualities the wood may impart on the wine itself.  On the smaller side, often used by home winemakers are mini-barrels which may hold 1-10 liters of juice.

This takes us to the age of a barrel and it’s varying effects.  The first time a barrel is used, it provides a wine with good texture and a substantial amount of tannins.  With each subsequent years the barrel is in use, the nuances that it offers become less and less.  Some wineries will only use 100% new oak every year (now you know why that wine costs so much!).  Others will use the barrel up to three years, then scrap the inside of the barrel, retoast it to their specifications, then put it back into rotation.  Some only used ’seasoned’ barrels (those who have been used several years without a retoasting) and refer to them as neutral barrels that will impart very little on their wine, but do allow it to age with a slight exposure to oxygen.

Next time you are tasting your wine and feel like you are in the forest, think about all these factors about barrels that the winemaker takes into consideration when crafting their product.–Jenny Benzie

Elisabeth with Denis Toner (center) at Francois Freres

Kistler oak at Francois Freres

Toasted barrels

Sommelier Jenny Benzie on DISCOVERING REGIONALLY SPECIFIC WINES FROM AUSTRALIA:

When dining at a favorite restaurant or browsing the shelves of the local neighborhood wine store, US consumers are still looking for a great value in their wine selection with so many choices available to them these days.  Value regions that may come to mind typically lie on the outskirts of more well-known regions:

Pernand Vergelleses is next to Corton-Charlemagne, you can’t get to Montsant without going through Priorat and Sant’Antimo  has no problem having so many wine ‘cousins’ in Tuscany.  This regional recognition for lesser-known wine regions is common for most Old World wines, but not so easily discernable for New World wines that highlight grape varietal first in their labeling regime versus promotion of a regional designation.   This type of labeling and promotion is the beginning of many challenges that Australian wines have in marketing regionally specific wines to the US market.

Americans’ perception, in general, of what they think represents the Australian wine industry is not a fair cross-reference of what is truly available to them.  Preconceived notions of Australian wine can range from consumers general ignorance that not all riesling is sweet and not all shiraz is over-the-top to the misconception that Australia only offers low priced, poor quality exports that do not evoke a sense of place.   This lack of awareness for regional character, variety and quality leads them to have a false image and identity of Australian wines.  Americans are unaware of the amazing white wines from Australia and how they compare to their international counterparts: the well-balanced, elegant Chardonnays of Margaret River in comparison to white Burgundy, the dry rieslings of Eden Valley up against some of the best from Austria’s Wachau and the classic, under-appreciated Semillons of the Hunter Valley.  The image of Australian reds is seen as big, heavy, rich and concentrated.  However, this is not the case for many reds that are available: Pinot Noir from Pemberton that may be confused as a red burgundy in a blind tasting, the Rhône-style cool climate Shiraz/Viognier wines from Yarra Valley and the distinctive earthiness of a Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon.  While these wines may be known to the wine buyers and sommeliers around the world, little has been translated that these wines are the first recommendations out of their mouths to consumers.

So how can you learn more about these regionally specific wines that Australia has to offer?  Ask your respected wine professional to recommend these types of wines so you can try them.  Have the sommelier or wine store merchant share with you the stories about the history of the people who have produced wines from these locations, being able to discuss the terroir from where the grapes are grown and emit a passion about the final product of wine itself.  Truth in labeling laws and emphasis on where the wine came from in these small areas will help consumers to recognize place of origin with the grape variety.  Be open to the innovative packaging that is developed and tested in Australia as it should be seen as an asset to the industry where US consumers are able to easily access these wines without having to use a special tool to open the bottle, box or wine pouch.

No one would ever think to take a wine tour around the entire United States of America, much less all of California.  Much is the same for Australia in that wine regions need to be divided, recognized and absorbed for each of their parts that make up the entire sum of its wine nation.  Promoting wine tourism is an invaluable tool to bring US consumers to the source of what Australia has to offer in the wine industry – you get to see the terrain and feel the climate, understand the geographic differences of each region and why certain grapes thrive better in some regions versus others, along with sampling the wine with local cuisine created by new, emerging talented chefs from Down Under.

By continuing to discuss the regional differences in Australian wines and how they relate to more familiar regions, US consumers are then given a frame of reference and a comfort level that allows them to feel safe in further exploration of what Australian wines truly do have to offer.–Jenny Benzie

currentVintage recommends:

Hope Estate Chardonnay, Hunter Valley (New South Wales), 2009, $15

95% Chardonnay and 5% Semillon;  Barrel-fermented with a restrained use of new oak.

Betts & Scholl Riesling, Eden Valley (South Australia), 2008, $30

The Wine Spectator 92 points: ‘Light, crisp and beautifully focused, with cantaloupe, papaya and lime flavors that bounce easily across the palate and into the long, fragrant finish. Subtle and absolutely enticing. Drink now through 2016. 250 cases imported.’ Nov 2008

More from cV on Betts & Scholl

Mollydooker Shiraz “Blue Eyed Boy”, South Australia, 2009, $54

Wine Advocate:
‘The 2009 Blue Eyed Boy Shiraz is a 20% Langhorne Creek and 80% McLaren Vale blend matured in 71% new and 29% 1 year American oak. Very deep garnet-purple colored, it is profoundly scented of blueberry and black cherry with touches of mint, mocha and the faintest whiff of damp loam. Very full-bodied, the bold, ultra-ripe fruit is well supported by medium-firm chewy tannins and medium-high acid, leading to a very long and pure if slightly warm finish. Drink this one 2012 to 2017+.’ – 92 points, Lisa Perrotti-Brown, www.erobertparker.com

Wine Spectator :
‘Rich and ripe, with a burnt edge to the spice and dried tomato flavors that remain strong against the blueberry and plum fruit. The tannins are well-meshed. Best from 2012 through 2018. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.’ – 91 points, Harvey Steiman, www.winespectator.com

We Love Shiraz:
‘The 2009 Blue Eyed Boy is 100% Shiraz from the Mollydooker Home Block Vineyard and Langhorne Creek Vineyards. The wine has an intoxicating spicy nose with hints of blackberry and strawberry. In the mouth the wine fully coated my palate with velvety tannins and flavors of plum, chocolate, coffee and blackberry. The purity of this wine was amazing. It was a unified presentation of fruit with a complex flavor profile. The lasting finish had evolving flavors that begged me to take another sip. This is the best Blue Eyed Boy (BEB) I have ever tasted.’ – 98 points, Brian Pasch, www.weloveshiraz.com

More from cV on Mollydooker

Jenny Benzie is the owner of Pour Sip Savor, a forward thinking wine business in which she is able to provide ‘An Assemblage of Sommelier Services’ by creating wine education opportunities for consumers, private client wine services, restaurant wine list consulting and brand ambassador to wine regions from around the world.  Her sommelier expertise has been honed by working at some of the finest establishments – Caneel Bay Resort in St. John, Michael’s in Santa Monica, Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach and The Pearl on Nantucket.

How does one simplify the world of wine?  Well, maybe you don’t exactly simplify it, you just put a little time in, says cV Sommelier, Jenny Benzie:

Every year has a new season, as they say in baseball, and the same can be found true for every vineyard and wine region in the world.  You might wonder how to demystify wine and bring it down to this type of every day level that we see in the wide world of sports.  This seems like an easy question to answer for me – read about it a little each day.

You pick up your ‘sports section’ and you see who won the game last night.  Highest scorer (Wine Spectator, anyone?), best of show (been to any wine fairs lately?), the names and uniforms changes (if the grape really isn’t in Napa, then how can you can you use that location in its name?).  And what about the recent steroid usage issues that we have seen in the news lately…sounds like genetically modified grapes to me.

By reading into some wine websites (like people watch SportsCenter) every evening as you unwind with a glass of wine after work, you can learn a little something each day.  Eventually, you know who the big players are, where they came from and what school they attended, who their teammates are, when were they drafted, have they ever been traded and just what is their batting average.  Maybe they played in an international league before settling into life in Napa Valley.  You follow your favorite professional athlete, now start to follow your favorite wine professional.  Sometimes they fumble, other times they score a homerun.  And you as the fan want to learn more about your favorite ‘team’ to impress your friends with trivia at the wine bar late at night!

Wine is something that is available for everyone.  Whether you are on a budget and choose the cheap seats at the game, decide to sit along the baseline to see the wine being made or you have season tickets and entertain in your sports box at every home game, you decide how you get your money’s worth out of your wine experience.  Switching from wooden bats (or barrels) to aluminum (stainless steel tanks)?  How dare they mess with the tradition of replacing corks with Stelvin screw closures!  Are half bottles considered minor leagues and magnums the World Series?  (Did you ever notice how they all celebrate with champagne at the end anyway?!?)  And what about all the great wine accessories that you can buy to decorate your house?  Who is your favorite grape mascot now?

I think you get the picture, just take it one day at a time.  Eventually, before you know it, you will be the one who knows all about the different vintages, which company bought out which team and who are the rising stars that make it all happen for us.

So, if you aren’t able to make it to the Red Sox game this Friday, come join us at cV for our weekly wine tasting where you get to sample a few of the wines you keep reading about!

–Jenny Benzie

Jenny Benzie is the owner of Pour Sip Savor, a forward thinking wine business in which she is able to provide ‘An Assemblage of Sommelier Services’ by creating wine education opportunities for consumers, private client wine services, restaurant wine list consulting and brand ambassador to wine regions from around the world.  Her sommelier expertise has been honed by working at some of the finest establishments – Caneel Bay Resort in St. John, Michael’s in Santa Monica, Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach and The Pearl on Nantucket.

According to cV Sommelier Jenny Benzie (Founder of Pour, Sip, Savor! Sommelier Services), here are 3 Ghastly Mistakes To Avoid If You Are Hosting A Wine Tasting…

So, you’ve invited a group of friends over, everyone is bringing a bottle and you want to make sure your wine tasting event occurs without any ‘flaws.’  Below are a few mistakes to avoid if you are hosting a wine tasting event to ensure you get a ‘Gold Medal!’

Dirty glassware can cause your wine tasting event to go from ‘Brilliant’ to ‘Dull.’  Here are a few tips to ensure clean glasses:

• Don’t just pull the glasses from your cabinet or a box – they will have a stale, cardboard smell.
• Don’t wash your glasses with soapy water – this can leave a film.
• Never use a paper towel to dry your glasses – this will leave an ‘off’ odor in the glass (and lint!).
• Rinse your glasses with warm water and gently dry by hand with a polishing cloth.

How can you identify what’s in the glass with distracting smells all around you?  Here are a couple of ideas to keep your wine tasting area odor-free:

• Do not burn any candles or have plug-in air fresheners in the room.
• Ask your guests (and you!) to refrain from wearing perfume, cologne, after-shave or other scented personal products.
• Do not use chemicals or scented cleaning products on the table where you will be tasting.
• And NO SMOKING!

While some like ‘hot’ tea or ‘iced’ coffee, seldom do they like ‘warm’ white wine or ‘too cold’ red wine.  Some helpful information on correct temperatures to serve wine:

• Champagne and Sparkling wines: 41-45 degrees F
• Lighter, more delicate whites: 45-50 degrees F; Heavier white wines: 50-55 degrees F.
• Lighter style reds: 55-59 degrees F; Full-bodied reds: 59-64 degrees F

It is easier to ‘warm’ a wine by cupping the glass in your hands than it is to ‘chill’ the wine by diluting it with ice cubes (gasp!).

That’s it for the tips. I hope you’ve found them helpful.  Remember, wine tasting should be an enjoyable experience and hopefully this advice will help you in preparing your own event!

Alex Gambal in Beaune

A long-time island friend and favorite winemaker, our selection of Burgundies would not be complete without offering something from the only American who now owns parcels in the Grand Cru Batard-Montrachet!  All of his wines are fermented by indigenous yeasts, racked only once and bottled by gravity without filtration.  According to Alex, ‘the superb 2009 vintage is a benchmark in the maturation of this fine little Burgundy house.’

To drink or to keep, you decide….just don’t wait too long!

St Aubin ‘Les Murgers des Dents du Chien’ 1er Cru $50

From one of the most famous climats from this small region located next to Chassagne-Montrachet, this wine offers what a village level wine from its next door neighbor does at a fraction of the the price.  Soft citrus and orchard fruit, rich flavors with medium acidity, slightly linear but with a lingering finish.

Suggested Pairing:

Sea Scallops with fresh corn salsa

Puligny Montrachet, $68

A straight-forward village wine that offers hints of soft toasty oak and citrus notes, mostly lime zest.  Fresh and vibrant, this wine is a perfect pairing for the abundant seafood available on the island.  Be sure to save a bottle to pair with Nantucket Bay scallops with a celery purée in the months ahead.

Suggested Pairing:

Lobster!  Lobster!  Lobster!

Bourgogne Rouge “Cuvee des Deux Papis” $30

Alex does it again with a sophisticated single-village wine worth its’ price!  Perfumed nose of spiced red berry that lead to bright middle weight flavors on the palate.  Perfect for those sometimes chilly nights when the fog starts to roll in before we are ready to receive it.

Suggested Pairing:

Salmon with roasted shiitakes

Chambolle Musigny, $70

Perfume of red berries on the nose  and a silky flow of soft, fading  tannins on the palate.  This is a wine that any Pinot Noir lover will appreciate.  Buy a couple bottles for your collection and reap the benefits of aging this wine a few years.

Suggested Pairing:

Coq au Vin, Roast Chicken with potatoes Dauphine

Rosé wines–so summery, so beautiful….so DIVISIVE!  Our customers are basically divided into three camps:

1.  Those who drink little else for these three months

2.  Those who realize rosé has a lot to offer, but are still discovering regions and styles

3.  Those who ‘just say no’.

Most of us at currentVintage dwell proudly in the first category, especially when it comes to French rosé!  We asked cV Staff Member & Sommelier at The Pearl, Jenny Benzie, to share her thoughts on summer & Rosé…

Summer on Nantucket would not be complete without including a bottle of rosé wine for whatever  the occasion might be – sunset at The Galley, an afternoon picnic at Ladies Beach or brunch at The Boarding House on the weekend.   With so many fabulous rosé wine selections available,  it’s almost like taking a mini-vacation to France as you taste through the varying styles offered from the different regions…

Cótes de Provence is a large and non-contiguous rosé producing region of Southern France in the Côte d’Azur spanning several communes.  This area accounts for the largest amount of rosé production in Provence.  The wines produced are made from a blend of no more than 40% Carignan and at least 60% of Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Tibouren.  At least 20% of the rosé must be blended from wine produced in the saignée method (bleeding of the vats, removing some pink juice from red wine production).  These wines are often bottled in the traditional regional wine bottle that almost looks like a bowling pin!

Jenny Recommends:  Saint Roch les Vignes, 2010, $15

Bandol is a small region on the water located in the Provence region of Southern France and is one of the more internationally recognized wine regions from this area.  The only region based more so on the Mourvedre grape, which must be at least 50% of the blend, grenache and cinsault are used to complete the wine.  Small amounts of syrah and carignane may also be used (up to 15% if blended or 10% if used individually). Since red wine is more prevalent here, there is only a small amount of rosé wine production and even less white (check out the Domaines Ott Blanc de Blanc we have in the store made from Clairette + Ugni Blanc!).  The combination of the warm coastal climate and silicone/limestone soils create a wine that offers character and complexity

Jenny Recommends: Château Pradeaux , 2010, $27

Tavel can be found in the Southern Rhône Valley, just across the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  This region ONLY makes rosé wine (that’s right, no red or white wines here) and must have an alcohol content between  11 – 13.5%.  Grenache and Cinsault are the main grapes used, accompanied by Syrah and Mourvedre.  These wines tend to have body and structure and therefore making them one of the few rosé wines that could possibly benefit from some aging.

Jenny Recommends: Chateau Trinquevedel, 2010, $20

Want to learn more about these wines?  Come buy a bottle and try it!  You can find these and many other fabulous rosés on the shelf or chilled in our cooler at currentVintage.

Jenny Benzie is the owner of Pour Sip Savor, a forward thinking wine business in which she is able to provide ‘An Assemblage of Sommelier Services’ by creating wine education opportunities for consumers, private client wine services, restaurant wine list consulting and brand ambassador to wine regions from around the world.  Her sommelier expertise has been honed by working at some of the finest establishments – Caneel Bay Resort in St. John, Michael’s in Santa Monica, Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach and The Pearl on Nantucket.

A few years ago, I was interviewed by Jen Murphy of Food & Wine magazine.  She asked me to envision several quintessential Nantucket summer occasions and suggest the perfect fashion and wine pairings–much like we do every day in the store–for FoodandWine.com.  I happily obliged and the piece was posted in June of 2009.

Two years later, currentVintage is once again featured in Food & Wine–this time in print!!  (F&W Best New Chef 2000) Amanda Lydon & Gabriel Frasca ( Straight Wharf, Provisions) were designated “Most Anticipated Opening” among a list of hotly anticipated restaurants,  for their new farm-to-table Italian eatery, Ventuno. They were kind to recommend cV as Nantucket’s  “Top Wine Store” in the July 2011 issue…

“Our friend Beth English owns currentVintage, a quirky store that sells both wine and vintage clothes. It’s sort of like chicken and waffles—until you experience it, it’s hard to believe what a great idea it is.”

It was an aw shucks moment, which led me to revisit the earlier piece…and I was delighted at how “current” it felt!  It was only two years ago, but that can be eons in the world of fashion.

Nevertheless, I thought it would be fun to update for Summer 2011.  The occasions may be the same but it’s fun to mix it up a little in what we wear AND what we drink.  The new improved list of Nantucket occasions and their 2011 “Suggested Pairings” are in PINK.  Happy Summer!

Nantucket Wine & Fashion

POSTED JUNE 23, 2009 AT 8:49PM EDT

Wine and cheese pairing…is it art?  Perhaps, but it’s not that hard to create.  You are basically seeking a balance of salt and sweet.  Some are intuitive, some more cerebral, but all should bring great tastebud joy that you will want to replicate time and time again.  We start with artisanal cheeses À Point (at peak), or aged to perfection, rotating our inventory based on season and availability.  We taste a lot, and when a combo makes our heart sing, we write it down!

In cheese-plating, as in art, there are no rules, but there are guidelines, such as begin with the mildest and progress to the most pungent.  Ideally, a contrast of milks, countries and textures;  condiments, fruit and crackers are totally optional.  My standard cheese plate usually begins with a Goat and features Comte in the third or fourth position.  Beyond that, anything goes.

Here, we share some of our available cheeses and favorite pairings, just as we do with all of the wines in our store.  Consider a cheese course for your next dinner party–we would love to help you create a Masterpiece.

COUPOLE:
USA (Vermont)/Goat

The Coupole is a fresh, soft, young goat’s milk cheese that is shaped like a small dome and lightly dusted with vegetable ash. It hails from the ambitious new Loire-Valley-style production facility at Vermont Butter and Cheese Creamery, where they have been pioneering innovative dairy products for more than 25 years. As the Coupole ages, a slightly wrinkled skin develops, and the paste softens. Approximately 8 oz.

Suggested Pairing:
Saumur Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Unoaked Chardonnay, Maybe Viognier

HOJA SANTA:

HOJA SANTA

(OH-ha SAHN-tah)
USA (Texas)/Goat

Hoja Santa was created by legendary cheese maker Paula Lambert, owner of the Mozzarella Company in Dallas, Texas. Paula thoughtfully created a cheese that reflects its origins, as each of these young goat’s milk rounds is wrapped in a velvety, heart-shaped leaf from the local (and eponymous) Hoja Santa plant. The leaf imparts subtle notes of sassafras, anise, mint, and black pepper to this soft, fresh chèvre.
The Hoja Santas are dried and flipped, then left until a few spots of perfectly edible mold grow on the rind. These are aged for much longer than most fresh goat cheeses. This guarantees that the leaf has lost its chewiness and has infused the white paste with a light grassy note. Approximately 5 oz.

Suggested Pairing:
Sancerre, Beer, Pernod!

AFFIDELICE:
(ah-FEE-duh-lees)
FRANCE (Burgundy)/Cow

A washed-rind cow’s milk cheese from the Burgundy region of France; it is very similar to Epoisses, which is made is actually made by the same creamery. Its name, Affidelice, comes from the marriage of two words: affiné (ripe) and delice (delight). Affidelice is soft, with a moist, terracotta-colored rind, and is contained in a small, wooden box.
The maturation process is continued at Artisanal Premium Cheese Center in New York, where they wash the Affidelice with Chablis. The resulting cheese has a soft, pungent, spoonable paste with a satiny texture.

Suggested Pairing:
Chardonnay, especially Chablis;  Champagne, Riesling

HUDSON VALLEY CAMEMBERT:
USA (Vermont)/Cow

The award-winning Old Chatham Shepherding Company’s Hudson Valley Camembert is a creamy, soft-ripened cheese made from the milk of Old Chatham’s herd of East Fresian sheep combined with hormone-free cow’s milk from a neighbor’s farm.
The result is meltingly smooth and buttery, with the texture of a triple-crème, it has layers of flavor and nuance. Approximately 5.33 oz.

Suggested Pairing:
Champagne, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling

FLEUR DE MAQUIS:
(fluhr doo mah-KEE)
FRANCE(Corsica)/Sheep

Fleur du Maquis is semi-soft, made in Corsica from the milk of the Lacaune ewes.
Its name means “Flower of the Maquis”–maquis being the local term for the typical thickets of rough underbrush where highway robbers and guerrilla fighters used to hang out.  During production, the smallish wheels are encrusted with rosemary, fennel seeds, juniper berries, and the occasional bird’s eye chile.

Suggested Pairing:
Pinot Gris, Beaujolais, Zinfandel

MANCHEGO:
(mahn-CHEH-goh)
SPAIN/Sheep

Manchego is a famous Spanish D.O. sheep’s milk cheese, made exclusively from the milk of sheep grazing upon the plains of La Mancha–the land of Don Quixote! This artisanal Manchego is made from raw milk and aged for several months. The cheese is nutty, sweet, and tangy with a firm texture. After 12 months, the semi-firm cheese becomes tastier, saltier and excellent for grating.

Suggested Pairing:
Quince Preserves + Albarino, Grenache

TALEGGIO:
(tah-LED-joh)
ITALY/Cow

Taleggio is a semi-soft, washed-rind cheese from the Valtaleggio region in northern Italy, near Lombardy. It is characteristically aromatic, yet mild in flavor, and features tangy, meaty notes with a fruity finish. The texture of the cheese is moist-to-oozy with a very pleasant melt-in-your-mouth feel. The combination of the soft texture, pungent aroma, and buttery flavors has proven to be addictive especially when spread on fresh crusty bread.

Suggested Pairing:
Warm Baguette + Chardonnay, Nebbiolo Bianco, Nebbiolo

TERRALUNA:

TERRALUNA

UTAH/Cow

Terraluna is produced in Utah from clean raw Jersey cow milk. This firm cheese is in the cheddar family, yet it has an even deeper flavor and a longer finish than most cheddars. The award-winning Terraluna owes its superior quality to the mineral-rich soil where the cows graze, as well as to the fine cheese making skills of its producers.

Suggested Pairing:
Pinot Noir, IPA

PECORINO BALZE VOLTERANNE:
(Peh-co-REE-no DELL-eh BAHLT-zeh VOL-tehr-RAH-neh)
ITALY (Tuscany)/Sheep

A raw organic pecorino from Tuscany and is made with vegetable rennet of wild artichoke. The cheese is aged in oak barrels for 60 days, the rind covered in oak and olive wood ash. This imparts a unique green olive flavor and a long finish. This cheese is firm, toothsome and has a nutty texture.

Suggested Pairing:
Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese

COMTE:
(kom-TAY)
FRANCE (Jura)/Cow

Comté is a firm pressed cheese made from the raw milk of red and white Montbeliard cows in the Jura Mountains of France in Franche-Comté. The cheese is produced in small, cooperative dairies, known as “fruitières” which collect the milk from farms within a maximum of 15 miles radius and only produce cheese in the summer months..
Comté is the most popular DOP cheeses in France, and it is claimed that there are more than 83 distinct flavors in Comté, including mountain flowers, apricot, chocolate, butter, cream, butterscotch and grilled bread. It comes in a 1/3 pound block and is tempting to snack on like a savory candy bar!

Suggested Pairing:
Savoie, White Burgundy, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Bordeaux Blends

GORGONZOLA PICCANTE:
(gore-gon-ZOH-lah)
ITALY/Cow

Italy’s answer to Roquefort, from the region north of Milan. Its rough, reddish rind protects a tender, light yellow, blue-flecked paste that is firm, moist, and buttery. The flavor is sharp and sweet.

Suggested Pairing:
Sauternes, Vin Santo

LA PERAL:

LA PERAL

(lah peh-RAHL)

SPAIN/Cow & Sheep

A gently blued pasteurized cow and sheep milk cheese from Asturias in northern Spain. Also known as Queso Azul Asturiano, La Peral has been made by the Lopez Leon family since the 1920s. The wheels are aged for sixty days just to the point that the blue begins to develop. La Peral resembles an Italian Gorgonzola. It has a slightly crumbly texture that leads to a refreshing finish on the palate. The sheep milk component gives this firm cheese a little olive oil flavor and a pleasant pungent aroma. Rich, moist, buttery, sharp, salty…

Suggested Pairing:
Atop a Medium-rare burger + Rioja & Other Spanish Reds, Cabernet Sauvignon, Port, Amontillado

We always say that tasting is the best way to hone your palate and learn more about wine…but what about those situations where you don’t want to drink too much, have to drive home or attend a trade tasting with dozens or even hundreds of wines?  Well, you probably oughta spit.

There is, however, an art to spitting–which may seem a little unfair, in that in order to sharpen your wine skills you have to develop your spitting skills, too?!

Well, forget about fair and start developing your spitting style.  There are a few “correct” ways to spit;  some say a slow, steady stream, others say fast and furious.  I find that different methods are necessary in different settings.  While I love having a big sip and letting the wine cover every tastebud, rather than swishing it around like mouthwash, most of the time, a half oz taste is all that is safe when it has to be expectorated with precision.

British Wine Critic Jancis Robinson makes it sound downright regal.  Hers, we will call the “Royal Spit”:

“When it makes sense to spit, you should be proud rather than ashamed to do it. You may associate expectoration with rather seedy old men and pavements, but wine people have perfected the art of doing it with great style. ‘Spit with pride’ might well be the wine taster’s motto. The stylish spit is forceful, an elegant trajectory with not the merest suggestion of a dribble, aimed dead center of the spittoon.”

Royal wave optional.

While the goal here is to illuminate the reasons and methods of spitting, it should be noted that some don’t encourage spitting at all.

Teobaldo Cappellano is considered a legend and one of the last great traditionalist winemakers in Barolo. In 1983, he banished all journalists from his cellar unless they agreed to review his wines without scores.  As a result, he is not very well-known in the United States — but is held in very high esteem in the wine world.  In regard to spitting, Cappellano said, “If there is one thing that makes me crazy, it’s spitters of wine…the ones who taste a wine by rolling it around in their mouths and then they spit it out. I worked my butt off to make wine to drink, not to spit!”

I’ve heard that sentiment from many a French winemaker, too, but that philosophy can be trouble without a wooden leg,  I’m just sayin.

For more musings and demonstrations on spitting, check out these links. At least, if you do find yourself in a setting in which you need to spit, you will be prepared to do so with confidence, if not style.

The Fine art of spitting:

http://www.spinthebottleny.com/spin-the-basics/the-fine-art-of-spitting-2