I dream of Lilly.  Particularly the Lilly of the 1960s photos by Slim Aarons. They conjure a life of leisure I will never know—and a mood/attitude/way of life that no longer exists…

“Once upon a time, life was not better. It was different. Once upon a time everything was optimism, because nothing was bad for you.”

If you watch Mad Men, this statement by William Norwich makes perfect sense.  The early 1960s were heady times–innovations in business, fashion, culture and lifestyle were occurring exponentially and the nation embraced modernity with open arms, with no time to consider the consequences.

As simple a garment as the ’shift’ dress actually reflected a big shift in womens’ attitudes!  No more “foundations”, ie no more girdle.  The easy, casual shape represented a relaxation of dress standards–even among the upper class, who were early to adopt, much as the flappers did in the 1920s.

These simple shapes were executed brilliantly by Lilly Pulitzer, a free-spirited socialite who quickly went from juice-making to dress-making.

The Lilly Story

“The Lilly” label became the first lifestyle brand–the original resort wear for the burgeoning leisure class. Her prolific original fabric and dress designs (not found at Marshall’s) are still cherished today.  Lilly Pulitzer closed her business in 1984.  The presently ubiquitous “Lilly Pulitzer” label and “In the Pink” stores are produced by a new company formed in 1993, after purchasing the name.

Yes, once upon a time, life was different…

Visit our collection of Original Lilly designs for men & Women at currentVintage, 4 Easy St, Nantucket.

Lilly Pulitzer

Lilly Pulitzer (right)/Slim Aarons-Getty Imges

April 1968: Mr and Mrs Donald Lease with their Rolls Royce and two pet dogs outside their home in Palm Beach, Florida. (Slim Aarons/Getty Images)

Kelly modeling Victor Costa at currentVintage

Born in Texas in 1935, Victor Costa grew up enthralled by the glamour of Hollywood and intent on working in fashion. He sold sketches to Oleg Cassini and Ciel Chapman before joining the Suzy Perette label in 1965, where his photographic memory was dispatched to the Paris runways.  It was during his eight years at Suzy that he became known as “The Copy-Cat King” for his meticulous line for line copies of European couture.  This was back when copy-ing was actually considered a good thing—couture was skillfully replicated for the masses, but in a respectful, high-quality way.  Not just made to look similarly, couture copies were made to endure, and Seventh Ave designers, such as Hattie Carnegie and Norman Norell, were celebrated for their quality imitations.

Victor Costa dress details

Costa went on to form his own label, taking the design secrets he learned and interpreting them into fabulous, wearable pieces that are highly collectible today.  According to Costa, “A woman has to walk into a store, and [a dress] has to speak to her. It has to say ‘buy me’ or ‘try me on.’ It has to have color, it has to have shape, it has to have design secrets built into it that make her body look [outstanding]. You have to do lines that are flattering.”  And they did—the colors!  The fabrics!  The elegance!  The cut!  The pieces are at once distinctive, yet classic.

ABS does Jason Wu

The “dress has to say ‘buy me’” philosophy may be shared by today’s reigning “Copy King”, Allen Schwartz of ABS, whose rapid, literal imitations infuriate modern designers.  In fact, “copy-ing” designer fashions is a broiling controversy;  no sooner are the runway shows or red carpet over, stores such as H&M and Zara are rolling out the cheaply-made knock-offs at a fraction of the cost.  Designers such as Diane von Furstenberg and Jason Wu (whose Michelle Obama Inaugural Gown was promptly replicated for prom-wear) have lobbied Congress for copyright protection.  Currently, clothing design, no matter how artistic, is not protected by intellectual property law, as are books, music, etc.  Trademarks are obviously protected (eg the Lacoste croc), but not the designs themselves.  While it may be maddening—and costly—for modern designers to see their works poorly constructed in bad fabric on the Forever 21 rack, there will always be demand.

Kelly in Victor Costa at cV

Rosie in Victor Costa at cV

Victor Costa closed his company in 1995, but still designs bridal and evening wear today.  Fortunately, his prolific works of the 1960s-80s have longevity similar to their couture inspiration.  They are expertly constructed and flattering, as promised.  Look for the vintage Victor Costa label(s)—they are Pre-disposable fashion.

Rosie in Victor Costa at currentVintage

Lulu & Elisabeth (with an S) wearing Vintage Lilly at currentVintage on Nantucket

Lulu in FOOD TO FLOWERS wearing Vintage Lilly from currentVintage!

How wonderful it was to take the collective magic carpet ride that is Lulu & Co.  I am speaking both specifically about the super fun book signing we hosted featuring Lulu’s new book, FOOD to FLOWERS, at currentVintage, and what it’s like to be around the Powers girls, in general.  Wherever Lulu goes, there is a flurry of  energy, ideas and yes, magic.  Her particular combo of culinary chemistry and personal charisma has taken her from apprentice in the kitchen of Sarah Leah Chase on Nantucket to titillating the tastebuds of Madonna, Will & Jada Pinkett Smith, Arianna Huffington and Bill Clinton in LA.  In addition to great talent and entertaining savvy, Lulu has excellent taste and style, as evidenced by her preference for vintage clothing and the fabulous pieces that she has collected from currentVintage.

Lulu in Allure Magazine wearing currentVintage

“If a dinner party is like a relationship, then a cocktail party is like a fling–all the fun and none of the commitment.”–Lulu Powers in  Food to Flowers

The book is a lovely lesson in simple but thoughtful and chic entertaining–who couldn’t use a lesson in that?–beautifully photographed by Lulu’s husband, Stephen Danelian.  Below are a couple of the simply delightful recipes included in Food to Flowers.  To purchase the book, visit currentVintage (for a signed copy), your local bookstore or http://www.lulupowers.com

EDAMAME BRUSCHETTA

Edamame:
2½ cups, plus ½ cup shelled edamame, at room temperature
1 cup fresh mint leaves
½ cup fresh parsley leaves
salt and pepper
½ cup olive oil

In food processor, blend 2½ cups edamame, mint, parsley, salt and pepper to taste until smooth. Add oil and remaining ½ cup edamame, and blend until mixture is slightly chunky.

To Serve:
2 packages rice crackers, about 30 crackers
4 strips bacon, cooked until crispy and broken into small pieces
½ cup finely grated Gruyère cheese

Place dollop of edamame mixture on rice crackers. Top with bacon and garnish with Gruyère.

MILLION DOLLAR BARS

“Taste just one of these treats and you’ll understand the name. My mom’s English friend, Mrs. Kennedy, introduced the Powers clan to Million-Dollar Bars. She wouldn’t part with the recipe, so my sister Sarah and I came up with one ourselves. The problem is that you can’t eat just one.”–Lulu

1½ cups all-purpose flour

½ cup sugar

¾ pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter

(1 stick at room temperature & 2 sticks chilled and cut into pieces)

½ cup packed brown sugar

Two 14-ounce cans unsweetened condensed milk

¼ cup heavy cream

12 ounces semisweet chocolate chips

Makes 35 bars

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

2. Sift the flour into the bowl of a food processor. Add the sugar and the chilled butter and pulse until the mixture resembles crumbs.

3. Press the mixture into a 9 x 13-inch pan sprayed lightly with nonstick cooking spray and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until light golden. Let cool in the pan.

4. In a medium saucepan, melt the brown sugar and the remaining stick of butter. Add the condensed milk and stir constantly over medium-high heat until the mixture thickens slightly and becomes light golden in color, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the caramel from the heat and pour evenly over the cooled cookie mixture. Let cool slightly.

5. In the meantime, melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pot of simmering water and gradually whisk in the heavy cream until smooth.

6. Pour the melted chocolate mixture over the caramel and spread it evenly with a small offset spatula or by tapping the bottom of the pan on a hard surface.

7. Cool the bars in the refrigerator until set and cut into squares. If the chocolate hardens, let the bars stand for at least 1 hour at room temperature before cutting. They will keep for 1 week on the counter and 2 weeks in the freezer.

Elisabeth & Mark in Sconset on Daffodil Day

Nantucket’s Daffodil Weekend is here!

Yes, our home-grown, self-induced yellow fever that feasts on friends, fun and familiarity.  The basic themes include Antique cars, tailgate picnics, Daffy hats and all things yellow, but every family and group has their own traditions and Daffodil style.  From breaking out the vintage Lilly to stirring festive libations to that secret recipe for egg salad, there are many signatures for Daffodil weekend.  We gather on Main St in town and Main St in Sconset to celebrate the new season.

And thus we begin our springtime ritual of greeting one another, whom we may not have seen in many months, and asking “How was your winter?”.  It’s a wonderful exchange;  some folks have been South, some busy with school and family, others in hibernation.  Some, like me, used nearly every single second of the winter months to travel…

San Francisco*Yountville*Healdsburg*Sonoma

Carmel*Santa Barbara*Ventura*Malibu

Santa Monica*LA*Boston*Providence*Charlotte

New York*New York*New York

I think I hit more cities than the American Idols Tour.  Wining, dining, visiting friends and shopping for vintage faster than the speed of light.

Because:

A.  It takes a lot of time to discover the wines and unearth all the treasures that fill our shop every year

B.  Life is short and I doubt I’ll be going anywhere else until October!

To be continued, in this space, with stories from Napa, Sonoma & beyond.   Hope you had a good winter!

currentVintage Holiday Style

High praise–so lovely to receive!

As one who recently gushed over a number of boutiques and restaurants throughout  Ireland, it was fun to be on the receiving end recently when currentVintage was mentioned in several other web blogs.  It’s certainly grand to get national press, ahem, ( Lucky, Food & Wine) and recognition on high volume websites (Concierge, Indagare, Frommer’s, Self), but it’s particularly gratifying when freelance writers or individuals just like what you do and shout it to the world.  It’s also fine if they just mention you in passing—they were here and they took note.
Anyway, we just got the nicest write up on a very cool blog called “Corks + Caftans”.  The blog is written by a couple, Rob & Carey, and captioned “He loves wine; she loves fashion.”  They each post fun and interesting pieces, a lifestyle mix of useful wine & travel notes, fashion references and intimate anecdotes.  I have been reading their blog off and on for sometime and concluded that I would definitely like to hang out with them.  Thus,  I was especially delighted for Carey to write a little piece on currentVintage.

“If Corks + Caftans were an actual store, I think it’d be reminiscent of this lovely shop tucked away on a cobblestone street near the harbor at 4 Easy Street. The vintage selection is so insane… I almost bought a baby blue sequined tunic with a scalloped hem and am still kicking myself for this lapse in judgment. Walk among carefully selected accessories, dresses, racks of wine, fur-collared coats… it’s like being at Willy frackin’ Wonka’s.”

Corks + Caftans blog

Back in the summer, we were featured in the Food & Wine magazine blog by editor Jen Murphy.  She asked me to come up with some wine and summer fashion pairings and opened her post with this:

“It takes talent to match just the right wine with a dish. Some would also argue that it takes talent to match the perfect handbag or heels with a dress. That makes Elisabeth English, the owner of Nantucket’s Current Vintage, super-talented.”—Jen Murphy

Elisabeth English on Food & Wine

Girls playing dress up at currentVintage

Another fun 2009 post featuring currentVintage was this one from The Fashion Examiner Blog Spot.  I was amused by their take on cV and the profile provided…

THE VIBE: Part Palm Beach vintage with some luxe items thrown in partnered with some select wine offering such as Sofia Coppola’s wine spritzers.

HIGHLIGHTS: the vintage Lilly Pulitzer cocktail and patio
dresses and the pink bug eyed sunglasses.

ON SALE: An adorable sail/architectural print sheath dress for under $100

WE BOUGHT: a cute brown pull on skirt with an embroidered mushroom cap for $35. The owner joked, “You just bought the cheapest thing on the Island”.

BROWNIE POINTS: The relaxed vibe and friendly owner who let us linger for close to an hour trying dresses on.

I also got a huge kick out of the title of this blog post from travel writer, Cathy Che, entitled “Preppy Nantucket: Alienated by Lilly Pulitzer without Irony”.  Che appreciated the natural beauty of Nantucket, but lamented the lack of originality in style and diversity on island. As I much as I revere the real Lilly Pulitzer, we could hardly be called preppy here at currentVintage, and fortunately, Che seemed to get our brand of cool:

“There are a few edgy shops like Current Vintage (refurbished Lilly Pulitzer and other chic vintage dresses plus fine wines) and Posh (fine handcrafted jewelry)”

“Preppy Nantucket: Alienated by Lilly Pulitzer without Irony”

The last blog post I’ll mention had particular significance for me, because it turned out I knew the author, although she did not know that she was writing about me!  Rebecca Chapa, an accomplished sommelier and wine educator, has a wine consulting company called “Tannin Management…Taking the Bitterness Out of Wine”.  She has an extensive restaurant wine background, working at Montrachet, Nobu and Tribeca Grill in New York, and as the first sommelier at Jardiniere in San Francisco, earning a “Best of Award of Excellence” from the Wine Spectator for their list.

Although a wine professional, Rebecca understands that wine can be enjoyed without fanfare.  Her blog, www.rebeccachapa.com, explores wine, spirits, travel and culture.  It was through the blog on “Nantucket: Off-Season” that I found her post mentioning currentVintage and realized that we used to work together at the Brotherhood in the early 90s!

“They have an amazing selection of lesser known cult wines including Scholium Project!  Pretty cool to see that someone here
knows what they’re doing.”—Rebecca Chapa on currentVintage

As one who loves to champion the elements of the currentVintage lifestyle, from winemakers to designers to destinations to bloggers, it’s nice to give and to receive.

Dingle Spuds

Ennistimon "window"

In the last post, I left off with Dingle, the charming town ¾ of the way to the end of the Dingle Peninsula.  Having made our way from Dublin to Dingle over the course of a week, we had stayed in many nice places, eaten out 2-3 meals a day and were basically spoiled in the scenic sights department.

Dingle sheep

On a trip of this sort, things have to get progressively more interesting or the destinations at the start of the trip have an unfair advantage of being new and first, and therefore, remembered most fondly.  Well, Dingle did not disappoint.  The town is cute as it can be, even with nearly every single restaurant closed on a Thursday night.  We dined at the most beautiful restaurant, The Old Stone Bar & Grill, which I would recommend for drinks ONLY.  We ordered the mussels and some other small plates…not long after, we noticed a kitchen employee put his coat on and head out into the night.  When our mussels were served a bit later, they did not come with the usual homemade Irish soda bread.  No, we got a toasted hamburger bun.  It had pesto slathered on it, but it was still a boring white bun!

Connor Pass

The cliffs at Slea Head and the rugged coast are breathtaking and the drive the next day, over the Connor Pass and to the flat sand beach on the northside of the peninsula was awesome.  The tide goes out nearly as far as you can see, so the beaches at lo-tide are fantastic.

North Dingle Beach

While it was hard to depart the beauty of picture-perfect Dingle, the comforts of Dromoland Castle awaited.

Dromoland Castle

Elisabeth in new shoes at Dromoland

Dingle to Dromoland:

We raced from Dingle to Dromoland, with barely a stop, in hopes of arriving in time for an afternoon walk with the hounds and some time at the spa.

En Route:

Visit the tiny village of Adare, home to a row of charming, if touristy,  thatch-roof cottages housing several boutiques.  The town was given it’s award-winning makeover by an Englishman in the 1820s, in effort to create the perfect village and has been attracting sightseers ever since.

Adare

Shop:

Rococo Shoe Room at the Rose covered cottage—Where the beauty on the inside even surpasses the outside! Drool-inducing array, including Spanish designeres Paco Gil, Pedro Garcia and Pura Lopez, as well as quirky American Beverly Feldman

Dromoland Suite

Stay:  Dromoland Castle near Newmarket-on-Fergus

We were awestruck upon arriving at Dromoland—it looks as if King Arthur and the knights will be back any minute.  Worth a night for the opulence.  Our room was extravagantly appointed, as were the common areas.

petit fours

Eat:

Dromoland is an all-inclusive deal, so our meals were taken in the Earl of Thomond dining room.  While we enjoyed the flourish, pomp and circumstance, the food was unremarkable.  I enjoyed the turbot, which seemed fitting, and was grateful they were not serving pheasant, having noticed a large number of birds and hunters running around the grounds.  Breakfast was a similarly lavish affair, and all that silver is fun, even when they are serving white toast with your dry omelet.

Castle Fiddle Player

Drink:

An after-dinner drink in the intimate bar is obligatory—listen to the fiddle player and try to count the number of Staffordshire dogs that decorate the walls.

Dromoland Knight

Do:

While you can golf, boat, hunt pheasant or visit the Falconry, we chose the Leisure Center in the club house next door.  Swim, jaccuzi, steam, sauna, repeat.  We were made to purchase little black stretch bathing caps for 5e to enter the pool.  We must have looked suspect, because no one else was wearing them…

O'Connor's Pub, Doolin

Dromoland to Galway via The Burren:

Departing Limerick and entering Clare, I was interested to see how things had changed since my last visit, seventeen years ago.  O’Connell’s Pub in Doolin is still there, but so are dozens (hundreds?) of vacation homes and B&Bs.  I’m sure the music scene is still thriving, but tourism has hit this area hard.

Galway City is music central—so many cool pubs in such a small area, plus fab restaurants and great shopping.  What a wonderful town!  We were there for Game 1 of Ireland vs France World Cup qualifying match.  While super to be in a Galway pub cheering Ireland on a Saturday night, the 1-0 outcome was a bummer.

Cliffs of Moher

En Route:

Cliffs of Moher—the majestic cliffs are a must in any season.  It’s probably a good thing that there is now fencing and roping, although few seem to abide the “STOP: Do not Enter” sign where the path has been blocked off.  The Cliffs are so windy, it can be hard to stand up-right, and I wonder how many have ended up below in the cold Atlantic…I’d rather be a wuss than a statistic!

The Burren

Ennistimon, Lahinch, Doolin, Lisdoonvarna…cute little towns to drive through and scare up lunch en route to the R480 road through the Burren

The Burren—a fascinating, stark landscape; scenic drive to Poulnabrone, a simple, ancient burial site out in the middle of nowhere.  We zig-zagged the backroads to see as much as possible.

Bathroom, House Hotel

The House Hotel, Galway

Stay:

The House Hotel, Merchant St, Galway—great location; Fun & modern décor.  Although the first  room we looked at was ug-ly, the upgraded larger room was fantastic and one of our faves.

Eat:

French Restaurant on Abbeygate?—casual, superb lunch

Nimmo’s—Cute, cozy and really good:  Butternut squash soup, risotto and a bottle of “Paddy” New Zealand Pinot Noir.  Super popular with locals and critics, which is nice

Galway Swan

House of Thai—Fancy Thai; close to our hotel and perfect for a rainy Sunday night.

Butler’s—Decadent Hot Chocolate

Drink:

The Quays Pub—Our friend, Eithne, says it’s a must for a pint

Crane’s Bar—a 10 minute walk over the bridge from Quay St.  Great Trad music on Sunday afternoon and again on Sunday night, possibly every night

See & Do:

Walk!  Quay St and all the terrific shops around town

See the Swans on the Quay near the Spanish Arch

Walk to Salt Hill (2mi)—a pretty seaside promenade with shops and restaurants.   We gambled ((video roulette) in the casino for a little afternoon shelter and fun.

Quay St, Galway

Castle for Sale

Galway to Sligo via Connemara:

We got up pretty early in the morning and prayed for good weather.  There’s no point in going to Connemara if you can’t see it and the area is known for fog and mist.  Luckily, although it rained, it was not deal-breaking and we persevered through the rugged mountain roads and lovely coastal towns, riveted by the sight.

En Route—

The Quiet Man Bridge—near Oughterard (Ook-ter ard).  The iconic John Wayne film was filmed on location in Connemara and you will find numerous references to it in any guidebook.

Roundstone—Cute, tiny town on the coast; we stopped for photos and a couple of bananas, since there had been no opportunity for a morsel of food between Galway and there, at least not at 8am.

LOVE Vintage

Clifden—A bigger resort-town, with bakeries and restaurants.  I was devastated that the adorable store, LOVE Vintage, a kindred spirit, was not open:(

The Twelve Pins—We traveled back on N59 toward Galway, so we could take the R336 by Lough Inagh, to Kylemore Abbey.  The drive was one of the most scenic in Ireland, even in the rain—I can only imagine the lake with the towering mountains behind in the sunshine…

Kylemore Abbey

Kylemore Abbey—Arising out of the woods, the Abbey is that gorgeous castle you always see pictured next to anything mentioning Connemara.  Eleven elderly Nuns occupy the Abbey and they don’t miss a trick—there is a wonderful cafeteria/restaurant and a terrific gift shop on the grounds, selling jams, puddings, mohair throws and handknit socks.

Leenane—Made famous by the Martin McDonough play, “The Beauty-queen of Leenane”, driving along the Kilary Fjord on the way was beautiful.  We would have hit Westport, et al if it had not been pouring rain…

Donegal Oysters

Guy Charlemagne

Sligo:

Aaaaaaah, Sligo.  After a long day of knuckle-baring driving, We arrived in the lovely neighborhood of Strandhill, greeted by our friends with a glass of 2000 Guy Charlemagne Grand Cru “Mesnillésime”.  And it only got better!  Irish hospitality is not lost on our American friends in Sligo, who wined, dined and tour-guided us for four days.  They own a killer wineshop, The WineBuff, and, due to their proximity to France and direct-import to Ireland, I swooned with envy over their selection and the prices.

Sligo Airport Cemetery

See & Do–

Hike & Walk–Between the Harbor, ocean, lakes and rivers, there is a surplus of outdoor beauty and opportunity for hiking in the area.  There is an amazing cemetery and ruins on the airport property.  Beware of “The Travelers”–Fearless Irish gypsies who live in campers in various parking lots.  They seem to pick the best spots!

Shop–Sligo is an adorable town with some excellent shopping;  gourmet foods, artisan crafts and traditional Irish woolens & tweeds.  Mullaney’s on O’Connell St. was a delight.  If you ever make it there, budget at least an hour for a chat with John Mullaney, whose Father started the business a hundred years ago.  He is the epitome of Irish friendliness with a dose of blarney.

Seaweed Bath–See Box!

Seaweed Bath--the best tonic for a cold, wet day; For 25e, you get a 50 minute private steam and seaweed bath. The seaweed is surprisingly velvety and supposedly great for your skin and hair!

Eat:

Montmartre–a superb French restaurant in Sligo–who knew?!  Local Smoked Salmon, Authentic Lapin du Moutarde, cheese plates and a reasonable wine list.

Stay:  Ryall Arms—An invitation-only 5-Star resort in prestigious Strandhill, complete with two energetic dogs to walk and greet you every morning.  Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner with Wine inclusive. (just kidding)

Donegal

Driving around Donegal was a highlight—so beyond beautiful at every turn.  Donegal town is a great place to shop and there are numerous cafes, like the Blueberry Tearoom,  for an afternoon sticky toffee pudding after a day of touring.

Lord Mountbatten's Castle

See & Do:

Glimpse the awe-inspiring turreted stone castle of the Late Lord Mountbatten in Mullaghmore

Solis Loch Eske

Eat:

Solis at Loch Eske Castle—We were somewhat humbled when we pulled up in our Toyota, given there were two dozen Range Rovers in the parking lot.  The humility grew exponentially, as we entered the grand resort to see elaborate sailing yacht ship models on display everywhere.  It turned out to be a “Sunseeker” sales meeting in rural Donegal, to be attended by clients from all over the world.  Solis is a stunning luxury resort–if you can’t afford to stay there, you can enjoy a club sandwich in the bar, as we did.

Two things to note about Ireland:

Never believe a sign you read;  Whether it says “Hours”, “OPEN”, “Do Not Enter”, etc  It may say “private”, but it’s no harm to look around.  If it says open until 11, they probably stop serving at 9.  If it says, “Bathing caps required”, they probably are not.

Simple pleasures.  My best food memories are of hot soups on cold days served with warm bread, café breaks with homemade desserts, hot chocolates made with care…If the menu says “Arancini”, consider yourself warned.

Lastly, and this is true wherever you go:

The joy is in the journey.

Ladies Room

Kinsale Morning

Hunter & Hounds, Co. Clare

Arriving in Dublin at 4 am was not ideal.  Our flight from Boston caught a tailwind and deposited us in Ireland an hour earlier than what would have already been too early.  Thank goodness for the charming and sympathetic clerk at the Westbury, who taking pity upon us, snuck us into our room 10 hours before check in without charging us for an extra night.  We would have been happy with the maid’s closet, but the Junior suite we got was terrific—spacious but comfy with a pair of fab modern (not dated) burgundy velvet chairs.  We slept ‘til 11, then began our 2-week holiday with lunch at Dunne & Crescenzi, which was perfect.

Dingle street sign

The reason to go to Ireland is for the culture.  Not just the history and landscape, but the culture.  Even if you think you aren’t into beer drinking and traditional Irish music, you have to hang at the pub.  While the waiters and hotel staff are always cheerful, it is in the pubs where you really meet locals, and the people are where it’s at–Irish people are so friendly, so clever, so generous, so lovely.  Obviously, people make the country wherever you go, but when you are not traveling in an exotic place, but an English-speaking country similar to your own, meeting people is your only real window into any nuances of culture that distinguish the two.  The Lonely planet says ‘don’t go to Ireland without bringing a raincoat and a hollow leg’.  While there’s some truth to that–it will rain almost everyday, but usually not for too long…then again, sometimes for two days–the drinking part isn’t 100% true.  We made friends even when we were obviously pathetic lightweight yanks sipping Carlsberg by the glass in lieu of downing the black stuff by the pint.  Ok, maybe we participated a little more fully than that, but you don’t have to…

Detail Rock of Cashel

Rock of Cashel

Celtic Cross at Cashel

Dingle Pub

Renting a car has the added bonus of Irish radio.  We listened to the Jerry Ryan show everyday and thus learned of current politics and issues, as well as the national obsession with “The X Factor”–the UK version of “America’s Got Talent”.  Silly me had never heard of “Jedward” before November 4, but I did not go one day in Ireland without hearing or seeing of the duo.  And talk about timing–we were there for the two heartbreaking Ireland-France World cup qualifying games, the outcome of which is still being contested due to the blatantly illegal winning goal, now known as “Henri-Gate”, after the French culprit.

Kilkenny Butcher

Although there are plenty of happening restaurants and modern cooking in Ireland, the country is still not known for the food.  Maybe it was because,  coming from Nantucket and New York, we are pretty spoiled, or, perhaps because it is hard to be dazzled when you eat out so many days in a row, but we were less than euphoric over most of our Irish dining experiences. That being the case, the high points were really high, so I thought I would emphasize the food highlights of our journey as well as the sights.  The reality is, you can’t see every ruin, love every meal or drink in every pub, so here is my list of what is really worth it.

Dingle Pubs

One caveat about fall/winter travels:  We were traveling in November and it is definitely the off-season for tourist destinations like Kerry and Dingle.  There was still plenty to do and see and no shortage of beauty and charm, but it did mean that a lot of places were only open weekends, if at all.  In addition to the off-season handicap, many restaurants all over are closed Sundays and smaller stores close Sunday & Monday.  Not a surprise coming from off-season Nantucket, but sometimes disappointing, nonetheless.  The worst part is, it’s still expensive!  The off-season specials only kept it from being very expensive, especially with the flagging dollar.  Rugged landscapes, beautiful lakes, lovely people, green pastures, gray skies, rainbows, castles, sheep…Ireland is visual splendor at any time of year.

Kenmare rainbow

Where & What–Dublin

Dublin is a blast. We had so much fun there, landing with a friend at McDaid’s (just off Grafton, right across from the Westbury –Hillary Clinton was spotted there recently) for a Guinness on our first night.   Most of our adventures were on the Southside, since we only had three days.  I chose the cultural tour, ie eating & drinking, Vintage shopping with my darling friend, Kate,  and admiring the footwear at Brown Thomas, while Mark did the historical city bus tour–the Guinness Factory, etc.  One of our Dublin highlights was a wonderful theatre piece, Johnny Patterson, at Project Arts Centre in Temple Bar.

Stay:

Westbury Hotel—location, location, location;  corporate sort of lobby, but excellent rooms

Eat:

Irish potatoes

Dunne & Crescenzi—Excellent Italian;  everything was fabulous

The Winding Stair—Just over the ha’penny bridge.  Good, not great–but bread & butter pudding was to die for. You cannot overestimate the pounds of Kerrygold in this dessert…like heaven on the way to calorie-hell. fyi, Bread Pudding and Sticky toffee pudding were consistently delish all over Ireland

Irish Brown Bread

Fallon & Byrne—A trendy downstairs hall serving wine and small plates below a stupendous Dean & Deluca-like market.  The best Smoked salmon on brown bread we had in Ireland!

Gruel:  Awesome corned Beef sandwich and hot soup for a cold day

Queen of Tarts:  Plum tart with vanilla ice cream was to die for…go here after soup at Gruel.

Powerscourt Townhouse restaurant (street level):  THE BEST SCONE IN IRELAND.  Go ahead—jam, Irish butter, clotted cream.  You will not have one like this again.

See:

Trinity College Old Library—If you see one sight, it must be this.  Book of Kells (or ‘Page of Kells’–there are only 2 pages on view:) and Long Library, with the library being the real attraction.

Guinness sign

Drink:

McDaid’s pub for great pint of Guinness

John Kehoe on Grafton also good

Baileys Bar on Duke St for UNBELIEVABLE hot chocolate with Baileys outside under heat lamps

Music:

Hughes Bar on the Northside—the real deal old Irish pub with killer “Trad” (traditional) music–worth seeking out!

Krystle: IF you’re in to the VIP club scene, this is the place to go for it!  Two floors, indoors, outdoors = not boring

Shop:

Brown Thomas Shoe Dept, Dublin

Brown Thomas shoe department—just for appreciation!

Powercourt Townhouse—gorgeous exposed brick, cool boutiques, pop-up vintage store on Saturdays!

Avoca Colorful Handwoven Mohair Blankets

Avoca Handweavers—cool Anthropology-esque store with killer café for lunch or coffee and sweets

Weekend Markets!

Meeting House Lane market had all kinds of food vendors; Cow Lane = cool handmade stuff

Dublin Places we heard were great and WISH we could have patronized:

Toner’s Pub, Ely Winebar, Bar Italia

Storefront, Kilkenny

Where & What–Dublin to Kilkenny

Kilkenny is a vibrant, beautiful medieval town with a happening arts scene that is also the home of another great Ireland brew, Smithwick’s Ale.  The main attraction is the castle and we stayed in close proximity.  The castle itself is more about scale than opulence, but the grounds are lovely.  Kilkenny seemed like a really nice place to live.

Glendalough

En route:

Stop at Glendalough in Co. Wicklow for an hour or so.  Monastic church ruins on a lake…So beautiful and magical, it feels like St. Kevin just left.

Stay:

The Butler House—B & B manse adjacent to grounds of Kilkenny castle.  Not inexpensive, but wonderful for a night.  The president of Ireland stayed in our suite two weeks before we did…aren’t upgrades grand?

Full Irish

Eat:

Kilkenny Design Center Kitchen—Breakfast, lunch, or dessert;  serves breakfast for Butler House guests–one of the best Irish Breakfasts we had.  Basically, an upscale cafeteria with really good food.

Butler Tomb, St. Canice's Cathedral

Kilkenny Castle

See:

Kilkenny Castle–home to 650 years of the Butler Family

St. Canice’s Cathedral–great!  Climb the round tower and see the tombs of the some of the Butler clan

Black Abbey—small but great if you talk to the Friar and get the history

Shop:

Kilkenny Design Center—a group of amazing art and modern boutiques featuring cool, functional clothing, furniture and home goods made in Ireland.

Kinsale Harbor

Where & What–Kilkenny to Kinsale

Postcard-pretty Kinsale is called the Nantucket (or Newport) of Ireland.  We enjoyed just walking, dining and hanging for a couple of days.

En Route:

Awe-inspiring Rock of Cashel is worthwhile, even in the rain. Picturesque Lismore is nearly shut down in winter, but we enjoyed looking at the closed for the winter sights and had the most fun cup of coffee at the Rustic Cafe.

Old Bank House, Kinsale

Stay:

The Old Bank House—nice, comfy B&B in the best location

Kinsale Pub Sign

Eat:

Fishy Fishy Cafe—A MUST; lunch only:(

Jola’s—absolutely gorgeous room with exposed brick, chandelier and fireplace.  John Dory with sultanas was amazing; local cheeses

Drink:

The Spaniard—Cozy, fun Irish pub with great trad music and peat fireplace;  nice walk up the hill

The Bulmen in gorgeous Summercove—the spot for an afternoon outdoor pint, even in winter

Blue Haven—When you want more than a pub; nice for a glass of wine by the fire

Gates of Old Head

See:

Sunrise on the harbor

Old Head golf course—scenic 20 minute drive from town.  It’s posted closed/private, but you can’t believe most signs in Ireland

Shop:

Granny’s Bottom Drawer—Adorable store with eclectic mix of vintage linens, local designer wear and home goods

sunrise in Kinsale

Where & What–Kinsale to Kenmare

Coastal Western Cork is breathtaking, even in the rain, as we saw it.

Timoleague Abbey

En Route:

Timoleague Abbey–off R600.  Moody, photogenic c1305 gothic abbey ruins just 12 mi. west of Kinsale that house a covey of pigeons

Drombeg Stone Circle–off R597.  Worth a look–a mini-Stonehenge sitting on a hill.  A 1500 yr. old slice of history surrounded by pasture.

Gazelle Boutique, Bantry

Gazelle, Bantry

Bantry Bay–Homemade soup and Fish & Chips on a rainy day at Fish Kitchen on New St in Bantry was amazing (upstairs above fishmonger);  Shopping at Gazelle, on Bridge St (across from Water Wheel) was even more so! Personable English shop owner, great Irish and European designs.  (New St and Bridge St are the same street–name changes several times as it does on most city center streets in Ireland)

Stay:

Brook Lane–an attractive “boutique” hotel on the edge of Kenmare;  the look is mod and not always successful.

Jam Cafe, Kenmare

Eat:

Jam Cafe–When you have had it with the full Irish breakfast (only in Ireland would oatmeal be a first course), go to Jam for a coffee and scone by the fire.

Salvados–A cute little Spanish tapas and pizza place

Ring of Kerry

Where & What–Kenmare to Dingle Peninsula

Entering the Ring of Kerry was amazing, just as they say.  In Autumn, the hills are not just brown, but every shade of yellow to orange to brown, which makes for a rich landscape tapestry.  We opted not to do the whole ring and proceeded to the Dingle peninsula.  The coastal road into Dingle was nice, but the rugged coast beyond Dingle town is what’s really special.  Leaving via the Connor Pass to the north side of the Dingle peninsula was awesome, as well.

En Route: Stop in Killarney National Park for a few hours and visit Torc Waterfall and Muckross House.  The town of Aghadoe outside Killarney is charming.

Lounging at Benner's

Stay:

Benner’s Hotel, Dingle–not the cheapest, but comfy and convenient plus a Dingle landmark.  It’s also a place with a little life and ambiance in the off-season!

Drink:

Irish coffee at Mrs. Benner’s Bar

See:

Slea Head–The spectacular loop drive beyond Dingle through tiny Irish-speaking villages was one of the highlights of our trip.

Canine Gate Keeper

Beehive Huts–(historic rock monk cells) there are some just before Slea Head on someone’s private property.  The owner sits in a booth and his dog opens the window with his paw when anyone walks up.  That was worth the price of admission right there.

Dingle

Elisabeth hanging at Mar a Lago

As a year-round resident of Nantucket and shopkeeper in this island resort community, there are two recurring questions/comments that one must perennially endure:

What do you DO in the winter?

It MUST be nice having the winter off (sniff, sniff)…

The first assumes there is nothing to do in Nantucket. Although there is some truth to that, particularly in March, we generally spend the winter working, renting movies, dining with friends, renting movies…Just like the rest of the Northeast, as well as much of country.

Regarding the second comment, the concept of “having the winter off” is a bit of an oxymoron to a small business owner.  My “seasonal” business is open generally seven days a week April-December and weekends in the dead of winter.  We close a couple of days a week in November, but that hardly makes up for the 9am-11pm schedule of July & August!  In the off-season, I travel incessantly to source our vintage inventory for the upcoming season.  It is a choice and the lifestyle I have chosen, but it is not quite exactly having the winter “off”, as in poolside in St Barths or three months in Aspen.  That said, I do spend a lot of time “sourcing” in some very un-wintery places…Mar a Lago, anyone?  But after traveling like mad all winter, and working like crazy all spring and summer, I am fantasizing about downtime.

This being the week after Labor Day, currentVintage now closes at 8:00 during the week–how great it will be to have some nights at home surfing the computer, organizing my shoes, applying a face masque—and of course, watching movies.

In that spirit, I thought I’d share some funny You Tube videos.  I am not up on You Tube like I am on wine and fashion;  these are not the latest releases.  These are NOT “cult’ following insider selections that are known only to me and my friends.  These are not particularly provocative or necessarily major artistic works of art.  They are mainstream, been-around-the-forwarded-emails-block, seen by thousands if not millions.

Perhaps it is culturally significant that everyone from a Burger King worker in East LA to 20-somethings in St Paul to the citizens of Antwerp to a 3-yr old in New York City all have the exact same dance moves, but that is not the point.  Bottom line is they crack me up, and if you are as tired and weary as I am after this marathon of a summer, the guilty pleasure of hanging out and laughing hard probably sounds really good.

My top 5 favorite make-me-smile You Tube videos*.

*Note the Broadway influence–it was all I could do to resist including Susan Boyle.

HAIR:  A 3-yr old Member of the Tribe!

Hang in for the first 40 seconds and you will realize you’re witnessing the next Gavin Creel–A three-year old member of the tribe!

“Do Re Mi”

A spectacular, seemingly spontaneous Sound of Music routine involving 200? dancers in an Antwerp train station –This will be the happiest 4 minutes of your day!

“Les Misbarack”

A year old now, this video brings back all of the energy and enthusiasm of the campaign trail a year ago.  The music is as exhilarating in this video as it is on a Broadway stage.

Bon Qui Qui at King Burger

Anjelah Johnson of MAD tv is brilliant.  Not that I would have known that if my savvy 9, 11 and 13-yr old nieces hadn’t set me straight last Christmas.  I loved her from “Don’t get crazy”.

“Forever” Wedding Dance

The popularity of this summer video has outlived some marriages…Given that their wedding song is by Chris Brown, Jill and Kevin of St Paul are using the popularity of their You Tube video and Today show to raise awareness of and funds for domestic violence

As I wrote about Talitha Getty in the currentVintage newsletter this week, it was apparent that given the era and her brief life, she was spared the kind of ridicule that today’s iconic fashionistas have experienced.  Why, exactly, was she so admired?  What, exactly, has she contributed to the human race besides her beauty and wealth?  The answer may be very little, but so what?  I’m not saying that teachers, nurses and Greenpeace workers don’t deserve praise, fame and fortune; only that the stylish are interesting to me and I have no issue when they are celebrated and adored for making the world a more visually interesting place.  But Talitha died young and thus permanently beautiful, albeit in a very ugly and unglamorous (heroin overdose) way.  How cliché, yet still lovely that the legacy of a single photograph continues to inspire today.

Rachel Zoe, Boho-Glamour Icon

If Talitha is the poster girl for 1960s Boho-chic, Rachel Zoe is the modern one.  I loved Rachel Zoe before she was popular.  She was on my radar for awhile and then, in 2006?, there was an article on RZ in Vogue or somewhere that featured photos of Rachel in various Halston Grecian column dresses lounging poolside in platforms and dwarfed in her awe-inspiring closet.  Her Boho-chic meets Studio 54 Glamour aesthetic was/is precisely my idea of cool and I have watched in awe as she has so successfully branded the look and made it practically Stepford in Hollywood.

Rachel Zoe in the closet dreams are made of...

Some say her style is irrelevant now—and some have been saying that for years.  But, guess what, it’s not.  I love it when the public refuses to roll over on a style they like (Carrie Bradshaw, anyone?).  Usually by the time a trend has hit mainstream America, fashion has long moved on, but sometimes, it just keeps coming back because people like it and designers have no choice.  I skipped the Sex and the City phase alltogether, but as long as young girls are still buying crinolines, I am happy to sell them.

Where Talitha had the benefit of being a beautiful & rich heroin addict pre-internet, Rachel has laser-sharp scrutiny 24/7.  Rachel’s suntan & cigarettes look is frighteningly unhealthy, yet perversely attractive.  I met her at a party of Sienna Miller’s a couple of years ago.  It was the Twenty-Eight-Twelve Launch Party on the roof top of the Gramercy Park Hotel, and there was RZ in a terrific little leopard vintage number.  I complimented her dress, she praised my palazzo jumpsuit.  I said I owned a vintage clothing store in Nantucket, she said that she wore only vintage.  At that point, when I should have had the sense to hand her a business card, etc, I proceeded to talk about anything and everything else, then eventually mosey on, having just met the most influential stylist on the planet and being too obtuse to make something of it…

Elisabeth in RZ-worthy vintage in Gramercy Park

That’s another reason I admire Rachel.  It is great to have great style, but style plus savvy is what really counts.  I don’t really care for the idea of the made-in-elsewhere line of “affordable” looks she has developed for QVC and I have yet to see her reality show, (although I would probably love it if I watched much tv), but I don’t blame RZ for trying to milk every dime of her celebrity ride.  She’s the first to admit she’s not saving lives, just being style guru to the red carpet and now, the masses.  Even if she is effectively over tomorrow, she’s more than made her fashion mark.  Personally, as a stylish-but-sans-savvy business woman, I think that is very cool.

Rachel Zoe in Boho Maxi

Giuseppe Zanotti Boho Biker boot from The Zoe Report

RZ & disciple, Kate Hudson

Rachel in Vintage? Suede Coat w/ Mongolian Lamb cuffs

Tom Binns modern pearl necklace from The Zoe Report