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Alex & Elyse: A Love Story

Alex and Elyse…sounds like a famous couple, like Jack & Diane or Peaches & Herb. They are famous, but alas, they are not a couple, although for this story I am trying to make them one…because I love them both. Alex Gambal Alex Gambal and his then wife moved with their kids to France in 1993. ...

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The 2010 September Issue: Part One

Posted by admin | Posted in Fashion, Nantucket, Vintage, currentVintage | Posted on 31-08-2010

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SF  Fishermans sweaterFishermans SweaterFall Fashion Week is fast approaching- the biggest week of the year for those in the industry and fashion followers. The phone book-size September Issues have just hit the newsstands and are packed to the gills with trend reports and “must haves.” For many people, this information overload is way too much to handle. Will I get it right? How can I possibly pull off (insert ridiculous runway trend here)?!

Take a deep breath! Trends are meant to inspire you, not enslave you. They are not marching orders, but a point of departure, if you will…

currentVintage is packed with pieces that are right on trend. After all–all great designers look to vintage to inspire their collections. Here we show you how to wear today’s trends in fabulous vintage style.–And we invite you to come in so we can show you personally!

2010 trends turban

Trend Alert: Turbans & Florals

SF  Turban dogSF  Turban best

SF  Blue floral sittingSF  Blue floral wine rack best

TREND ALERT:

FISHERMAN’S SWEATER!

So Comfy!

TREND ALERT:

TURBANS!

So chic!  So easy!

TREND ALERT:

PAINTERLY FLORALS!

So Refreshing!

TREND ALERT:

BROWN LACE!

Romantic or Sexy–or Both!

2010 trends brown lace

Trend Alert: Brown Lace

SF  Brown dress finalTREND ALERT:

CHUNKY SQUARE HEELS!

2010 trends square heels

Trend Alert: Chunky Square Heel

So Vintage!shoes1

TREND ALERT:

CAMEL & RED!

Classic + POP!

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2010 trends red shoes

Trend Alert: Camel & Red

September to December…

Posted by admin | Posted in Fashion, Nantucket, Vintage, currentVintage, travel | Posted on 24-08-2010

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Actress and cV Model, Sarah Fraunfelder

Sarah Teal Domaine Ott

NOW: A late-summer glass of Rosé before going out...

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LATER: Sequin Dress + Burberry Trench & Boots

The changing of the season is upon us and with it, the ambivalence of what to wear.  September in New England can mean temperatures of 75 or 45…one must be prepared for both.  Here we present several pieces that can be enjoyed in the dog days of summer and in the cold weather that is sure to come.  Versatile.  Transitional.  Packable.  September to December.  Now and Later.  Season-less Chic.

Sarah Zandra

NOW: Zandra Rhodes Silk Ensemble + Metallic Accessories

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LATER: Jordache & Ray Bans

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LATER: Zandra Top + Suede Boot & Satchel

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NOW: Italian Designer Bessi vibrant floral Rib-knit trim dress & Pink flower mule

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LATER: Bessi dress + Handknit cap & scarf

Atomic Style

Posted by admin | Posted in Culture, Fashion, Vintage, currentVintage | Posted on 17-08-2010

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Charles Khan lucite purse

Charles Khan lucite purse, sold


BD7364.1L

Gray Lucite Barrel Purse, sold

1950s Design…Lucite.  Plastic.  Sputnik.  Eames.  Frank Lloyd Wright.  Mies van der Rohe.  Air Streams.  Aqua!

Blue Lucite

Rare Robin's Egg Lucite Confetti Purse, $795

The 1950s began the age of consumerism, stoked by the American appetite for all that was new and modern.  Nevermind if they were forsaking hardwood for plastic, marble for formica–if it was “modern”, it was good.  Lucite, a plastic developed by DuPont in the 1940s, became the material of choice in, of all areas, 1950s women’s purses.  Designed in New York and Miami they were carried by fashionable women from housewives to movie stars.  Prestigious labels included Charles Khan, Myles, Llewellyn, Rialto and Wilardy.  The prolific Lucite purse styles were influenced by and affected influence on fashion, architecture and modern furniture design, as modernism developed throughout the decade.

Who wants to carry a granite purse, anyway?

Pearlescent Octagonal Lucite Purse, $325

Pearlescent Octagonal Lucite Purse, $325

dinette_aqua+do+wah+diddy

1_ESM_1959_Chairs001

icon-bubbles

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Aloha, Five-O

Posted by admin | Posted in Culture, Fashion, Vintage, currentVintage, travel | Posted on 09-08-2010

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Steve McGarrett

Steve McGarrett

Hawaii of the late 60s & 70s–A little bit of glamour and a lot of kitsch.

Doris Duke's "Shangri-la"

Doris Duke's "Shangri-la"

The glamour bit began earlier with the eccentric heiress Doris Duke and her palace, Shangri La…

Then, the late 60s brought Pan Am 747 flights, the fab hotels of Waikiki, Malia fashions and the reign of  the iconic tv series Hawaii Five-O.  Named after the 50th State, Five-O ran from 1968-1980 and starred Jack Lord as the dreamy Steve McGarrett.  McGarrett and his right-hand man, Danno, fought Chinese organized crime and  multiple felons each episode, with a version of cool merely aspired to by the likes of Miami Vice and CSI:  Miami.  Winner of multiple Emmys and awards, Five-O was filmed almost exclusively in Hawaii and was the longest running detective show until surpassed by Law & Order in the 1990s.

How fitting that, with the return of florals, maxis and the re-luxuriation of Waikiki hotel landmarks, comes a new version of the TV series Hawaii Five-0 this Fall?  It follows the creation of an elite police unit, led by a younger McGarrett, son of the original hunky cop–although it seems unlikely he’ll have as mod a hair-do. Aloha Danno and Five-0!

Hawaii Five-O theme song and opening sequence:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXfyhqXxf3E&feature=fvw

Watch a Five-O episode:  http://www.imdb.com/video/cbs/vi1875183385/ 5-0 episode

Trailer for the new five-O:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruKODTVxy3E

royal_hawaiian6

Hawaii 50 Season 3

I Dream of Lilly

Posted by admin | Posted in Culture, Fashion, Nantucket, Vintage, currentVintage, travel | Posted on 27-07-2010

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Palm Beach Socialites wearing original Lilly/Slim Aarons-Getty Images

I dream of Lilly.  Particularly the Lilly of the 1960s photos by Slim Aarons. They conjure a life of leisure I will never know—and a mood/attitude/way of life that no longer exists…

“Once upon a time, life was not better. It was different. Once upon a time everything was optimism, because nothing was bad for you.”

If you watch Mad Men, this statement by William Norwich makes perfect sense.  The early 1960s were heady times–innovations in business, fashion, culture and lifestyle were occurring exponentially and the nation embraced modernity with open arms, with no time to consider the consequences.

1964 Lilly/Slim Aarons-Getty images

1964 Lilly/Slim Aarons-Getty images

As simple a garment as the ’shift’ dress actually reflected a big shift in womens’ attitudes!  No more “foundations”, ie no more girdle.  The easy, casual shape represented a relaxation of dress standards–even among the upper class, who were early to adopt, much as the flappers did in the 1920s.

These simple shapes were executed brilliantly by Lilly Pulitzer, a free-spirited socialite who quickly went from juice-making to dress-making.

The Lilly Story

“The Lilly” label became the first lifestyle brand–the original resort wear for the burgeoning leisure class. Her prolific original fabric and dress designs (not found at Marshall’s) are still cherished today.  Lilly Pulitzer closed her business in 1984.  The presently ubiquitous “Lilly Pulitzer” label and “In the Pink” stores are produced by a new company formed in 1993, after purchasing the name.

Yes, once upon a time, life was different…

Visit our collection of Original Lilly designs for men & Women at currentVintage, 4 Easy St, Nantucket.

Lilly Pulitzer

Lilly Pulitzer

Lilly kiss?

Lilly Pulitzer (right)/Slim Aarons-Getty Imges

April 1968:  Mr and Mrs Donald Lease with their Rolls Royce and two pet dogs outside their home in Palm Beach, Florida. (Slim Aarons/Getty Images)

April 1968: Mr and Mrs Donald Lease with their Rolls Royce and two pet dogs outside their home in Palm Beach, Florida. (Slim Aarons/Getty Images)

Victor Costa: Pre-Disposable Fashion

Posted by admin | Posted in Culture, Fashion, Nantucket, Vintage, currentVintage | Posted on 20-07-2010

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Kelly VCOSTA

Kelly modeling Victor Costa at currentVintage

Born in Texas in 1935, Victor Costa grew up enthralled by the glamour of Hollywood and intent on working in fashion. He sold sketches to Oleg Cassini and Ciel Chapman before joining the Suzy Perette label in 1965, where his photographic memory was dispatched to the Paris runways.  It was during his eight years at Suzy that he became known as “The Copy-Cat King” for his meticulous line for line copies of European couture.  This was back when copy-ing was actually considered a good thing—couture was skillfully replicated for the masses, but in a respectful, high-quality way.  Not just made to look similarly, couture copies were made to endure, and Seventh Ave designers, such as Hattie Carnegie and Norman Norell, were celebrated for their quality imitations.

VCOSTA LBD detail

Victor Costa dress details

_MG_0202_MG_0212Costa went on to form his own label, taking the design secrets he learned and interpreting them into fabulous, wearable pieces that are highly collectible today.  According to Costa, “A woman has to walk into a store, and [a dress] has to speak to her. It has to say ‘buy me’ or ‘try me on.’ It has to have color, it has to have shape, it has to have design secrets built into it that make her body look [outstanding]. You have to do lines that are flattering.”  And they did—the colors!  The fabrics!  The elegance!  The cut!  The pieces are at once distinctive, yet classic.

ABS does Jason Wu

ABS does Jason Wu

The “dress has to say ‘buy me’” philosophy may be shared by today’s reigning “Copy King”, Allen Schwartz of ABS, whose rapid, literal imitations infuriate modern designers.  In fact, “copy-ing” designer fashions is a broiling controversy;  no sooner are the runway shows or red carpet over, stores such as H&M and Zara are rolling out the cheaply-made knock-offs at a fraction of the cost.  Designers such as Diane von Furstenberg and Jason Wu (whose Michelle Obama Inaugural Gown was promptly replicated for prom-wear) have lobbied Congress for copyright protection.  Currently, clothing design, no matter how artistic, is not protected by intellectual property law, as are books, music, etc.  Trademarks are obviously protected (eg the Lacoste croc), but not the designs themselves.  While it may be maddening—and costly—for modern designers to see their works poorly constructed in bad fabric on the Forever 21 rack, there will always be demand.

Kelly VCOSTA Romantica

Kelly in Victor Costa at cV

RK VCOSTA

Rosie in Victor Costa at cV

Victor Costa closed his company in 1995, but still designs bridal and evening wear today.  Fortunately, his prolific works of the 1960s-80s have longevity similar to their couture inspiration.  They are expertly constructed and flattering, as promised.  Look for the vintage Victor Costa label(s)—they are Pre-disposable fashion.

Rosie in Victor Costa at currentVintage

Rosie in Victor Costa at currentVintage

Lulu Love

Posted by admin | Posted in Culture, Events, Fashion, Food, Nantucket, Vintage, currentVintage, travel | Posted on 06-07-2010

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Lulu & Elisabeth (with an S) at currentVintage on Nantucket

Lulu & Elisabeth (with an S) wearing Vintage Lilly at currentVintage on Nantucket

Lulu in FOOD TO FLOWERS wearing Vintage Lilly from currentVintage!

Lulu in FOOD TO FLOWERS wearing Vintage Lilly from currentVintage!

How wonderful it was to take the collective magic carpet ride that is Lulu & Co.  I am speaking both specifically about the super fun book signing we hosted featuring Lulu’s new book, FOOD to FLOWERS, at currentVintage, and what it’s like to be around the Powers girls, in general.  Wherever Lulu goes, there is a flurry of  energy, ideas and yes, magic.  Her particular combo of culinary chemistry and personal charisma has taken her from apprentice in the kitchen of Sarah Leah Chase on Nantucket to titillating the tastebuds of Madonna, Will & Jada Pinkett Smith, Arianna Huffington and Bill Clinton in LA.  In addition to great talent and entertaining savvy, Lulu has excellent taste and style, as evidenced by her preference for vintage clothing and the fabulous pieces that she has collected from currentVintage.

Lulu in Allure Magazine wearing currentVintage

Lulu in Allure Magazine wearing currentVintage

“If a dinner party is like a relationship, then a cocktail party is like a fling–all the fun and none of the commitment.”–Lulu Powers in  Food to Flowers

The book is a lovely lesson in simple but thoughtful and chic entertaining–who couldn’t use a lesson in that?–beautifully photographed by Lulu’s husband, Stephen Danelian.  Below are a couple of the simply delightful recipes included in Food to Flowers.  To purchase the book, visit currentVintage (for a signed copy), your local bookstore or http://www.lulupowers.com

press-5EDAMAME BRUSCHETTA

Edamame:
2½ cups, plus ½ cup shelled edamame, at room temperature
1 cup fresh mint leaves
½ cup fresh parsley leaves
salt and pepper
½ cup olive oil

In food processor, blend 2½ cups edamame, mint, parsley, salt and pepper to taste until smooth. Add oil and remaining ½ cup edamame, and blend until mixture is slightly chunky.

To Serve:
2 packages rice crackers, about 30 crackers
4 strips bacon, cooked until crispy and broken into small pieces
½ cup finely grated Gruyère cheese

Place dollop of edamame mixture on rice crackers. Top with bacon and garnish with Gruyère.

MILLION DOLLAR BARSEI_Lulu_Powers_Million_Bars

“Taste just one of these treats and you’ll understand the name. My mom’s English friend, Mrs. Kennedy, introduced the Powers clan to Million-Dollar Bars. She wouldn’t part with the recipe, so my sister Sarah and I came up with one ourselves. The problem is that you can’t eat just one.”–Lulu

1½ cups all-purpose flour

½ cup sugar

¾ pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter

(1 stick at room temperature & 2 sticks chilled and cut into pieces)

½ cup packed brown sugar

Two 14-ounce cans unsweetened condensed milk

¼ cup heavy cream

12 ounces semisweet chocolate chips

Makes 35 bars

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

2. Sift the flour into the bowl of a food processor. Add the sugar and the chilled butter and pulse until the mixture resembles crumbs.

3. Press the mixture into a 9 x 13-inch pan sprayed lightly with nonstick cooking spray and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until light golden. Let cool in the pan.

4. In a medium saucepan, melt the brown sugar and the remaining stick of butter. Add the condensed milk and stir constantly over medium-high heat until the mixture thickens slightly and becomes light golden in color, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the caramel from the heat and pour evenly over the cooled cookie mixture. Let cool slightly.

5. In the meantime, melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pot of simmering water and gradually whisk in the heavy cream until smooth.

6. Pour the melted chocolate mixture over the caramel and spread it evenly with a small offset spatula or by tapping the bottom of the pan on a hard surface.

7. Cool the bars in the refrigerator until set and cut into squares. If the chocolate hardens, let the bars stand for at least 1 hour at room temperature before cutting. They will keep for 1 week on the counter and 2 weeks in the freezer.

Nantucket’s Daffodil Traditions

Posted by admin | Posted in Events, Fashion, Food, Nantucket, Vintage, Wine, currentVintage, travel | Posted on 20-04-2010

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Elisabeth & Mark in Sconset on Daffodil Day

Elisabeth & Mark in Sconset on Daffodil Day

Nantucket’s Daffodil Weekend is here!

Yes, our home-grown, self-induced yellow fever that feasts on friends, fun and familiarity.  The basic themes include Antique cars, tailgate picnics, Daffy hats and all things yellow, but every family and group has their own traditions and Daffodil style.  From breaking out the vintage Lilly to stirring festive libations to that secret recipe for egg salad, there are many signatures for Daffodil weekend.  We gather on Main St in town and Main St in Sconset to celebrate the new season.

rsbuick09stella& jezebel09india09foreggers09Packy+Jean09mark & Graciersdaffy09cooper09

And thus we begin our springtime ritual of greeting one another, whom we may not have seen in many months, and asking “How was your winter?”.  It’s a wonderful exchange;  some folks have been South, some busy with school and family, others in hibernation.  Some, like me, used nearly every single second of the winter months to travel…

San Francisco*Yountville*Healdsburg*Sonoma

Carmel*Santa Barbara*Ventura*Malibu

Santa Monica*LA*Boston*Providence*Charlotte

New York*New York*New York

I think I hit more cities than the American Idols Tour.  Wining, dining, visiting friends and shopping for vintage faster than the speed of light.

Because:

A.  It takes a lot of time to discover the wines and unearth all the treasures that fill our shop every year

B.  Life is short and I doubt I’ll be going anywhere else until October!

To be continued, in this space, with stories from Napa, Sonoma & beyond.   Hope you had a good winter!

High Praise…so lovely to receive

Posted by admin | Posted in Culture, Fashion, Nantucket, Vintage, Wine, currentVintage, travel | Posted on 09-12-2009

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currentVintage Holiday Style

currentVintage Holiday Style

High praise–so lovely to receive!

As one who recently gushed over a number of boutiques and restaurants throughout  Ireland, it was fun to be on the receiving end recently when currentVintage was mentioned in several other web blogs.  It’s certainly grand to get national press, ahem, ( Lucky, Food & Wine) and recognition on high volume websites (Concierge, Indagare, Frommer’s, Self), but it’s particularly gratifying when freelance writers or individuals just like what you do and shout it to the world.  It’s also fine if they just mention you in passing—they were here and they took note.
Anyway, we just got the nicest write up on a very cool blog called “Corks + Caftans”.  The blog is written by a couple, Rob & Carey, and captioned “He loves wine; she loves fashion.”  They each post fun and interesting pieces, a lifestyle mix of useful wine & travel notes, fashion references and intimate anecdotes.  I have been reading their blog off and on for sometime and concluded that I would definitely like to hang out with them.  Thus,  I was especially delighted for Carey to write a little piece on currentVintage.

“If Corks + Caftans were an actual store, I think it’d be reminiscent of this lovely shop tucked away on a cobblestone street near the harbor at 4 Easy Street. The vintage selection is so insane… I almost bought a baby blue sequined tunic with a scalloped hem and am still kicking myself for this lapse in judgment. Walk among carefully selected accessories, dresses, racks of wine, fur-collared coats… it’s like being at Willy frackin’ Wonka’s.”

Corks + Caftans blog

Back in the summer, we were featured in the Food & Wine magazine blog by editor Jen Murphy.  She asked me to come up with some wine and summer fashion pairings and opened her post with this:

“It takes talent to match just the right wine with a dish. Some would also argue that it takes talent to match the perfect handbag or heels with a dress. That makes Elisabeth English, the owner of Nantucket’s Current Vintage, super-talented.”—Jen Murphy

Elisabeth English on Food & Wine

Girls playing dress up at currentVintage

Girls playing dress up at currentVintage

Another fun 2009 post featuring currentVintage was this one from The Fashion Examiner Blog Spot.  I was amused by their take on cV and the profile provided…

THE VIBE: Part Palm Beach vintage with some luxe items thrown in partnered with some select wine offering such as Sofia Coppola’s wine spritzers.

HIGHLIGHTS: the vintage Lilly Pulitzer cocktail and patio
dresses and the pink bug eyed sunglasses.

ON SALE: An adorable sail/architectural print sheath dress for under $100

WE BOUGHT: a cute brown pull on skirt with an embroidered mushroom cap for $35. The owner joked, “You just bought the cheapest thing on the Island”.

BROWNIE POINTS: The relaxed vibe and friendly owner who let us linger for close to an hour trying dresses on.

I also got a huge kick out of the title of this blog post from travel writer, Cathy Che, entitled “Preppy Nantucket: Alienated by Lilly Pulitzer without Irony”.  Che appreciated the natural beauty of Nantucket, but lamented the lack of originality in style and diversity on island. As I much as I revere the real Lilly Pulitzer, we could hardly be called preppy here at currentVintage, and fortunately, Che seemed to get our brand of cool:

“There are a few edgy shops like Current Vintage (refurbished Lilly Pulitzer and other chic vintage dresses plus fine wines) and Posh (fine handcrafted jewelry)”

“Preppy Nantucket: Alienated by Lilly Pulitzer without Irony”

tm-logoThe last blog post I’ll mention had particular significance for me, because it turned out I knew the author, although she did not know that she was writing about me!  Rebecca Chapa, an accomplished sommelier and wine educator, has a wine consulting company called “Tannin Management…Taking the Bitterness Out of Wine”.  She has an extensive restaurant wine background, working at Montrachet, Nobu and Tribeca Grill in New York, and as the first sommelier at Jardiniere in San Francisco, earning a “Best of Award of Excellence” from the Wine Spectator for their list.

Scholium tagAlthough a wine professional, Rebecca understands that wine can be enjoyed without fanfare.  Her blog, www.rebeccachapa.com, explores wine, spirits, travel and culture.  It was through the blog on “Nantucket: Off-Season” that I found her post mentioning currentVintage and realized that we used to work together at the Brotherhood in the early 90s!

“They have an amazing selection of lesser known cult wines including Scholium Project!  Pretty cool to see that someone here
knows what they’re doing.”—Rebecca Chapa on currentVintage

As one who loves to champion the elements of the currentVintage lifestyle, from winemakers to designers to destinations to bloggers, it’s nice to give and to receive.

Ireland: Dingle to Donegal

Posted by admin | Posted in Culture, Fashion, Food, Vintage, Wine, currentVintage, travel | Posted on 30-11-2009

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Dingle Spuds

Dingle Spuds

Ennistimon "window"

Ennistimon "window"

In the last post, I left off with Dingle, the charming town ¾ of the way to the end of the Dingle Peninsula.  Having made our way from Dublin to Dingle over the course of a week, we had stayed in many nice places, eaten out 2-3 meals a day and were basically spoiled in the scenic sights department.

Dingle sheep

Dingle sheep

On a trip of this sort, things have to get progressively more interesting or the destinations at the start of the trip have an unfair advantage of being new and first, and therefore, remembered most fondly.  Well, Dingle did not disappoint.  The town is cute as it can be, even with nearly every single restaurant closed on a Thursday night.  We dined at the most beautiful restaurant, The Old Stone Bar & Grill, which I would recommend for drinks ONLY.  We ordered the mussels and some other small plates…not long after, we noticed a kitchen employee put his coat on and head out into the night.  When our mussels were served a bit later, they did not come with the usual homemade Irish soda bread.  No, we got a toasted hamburger bun.  It had pesto slathered on it, but it was still a boring white bun!

Connor Pass

Connor Pass

The cliffs at Slea Head and the rugged coast are breathtaking and the drive the next day, over the Connor Pass and to the flat sand beach on the northside of the peninsula was awesome.  The tide goes out nearly as far as you can see, so the beaches at lo-tide are fantastic.

North Dingle Beach

North Dingle Beach

While it was hard to depart the beauty of picture-perfect Dingle, the comforts of Dromoland Castle awaited.

Dromoland Castle

Dromoland Castle

Elisabeth in new shoes at Dromoland

Elisabeth in new shoes at Dromoland

Dingle to Dromoland:

We raced from Dingle to Dromoland, with barely a stop, in hopes of arriving in time for an afternoon walk with the hounds and some time at the spa.

En Route:

Visit the tiny village of Adare, home to a row of charming, if touristy,  thatch-roof cottages housing several boutiques.  The town was given it’s award-winning makeover by an Englishman in the 1820s, in effort to create the perfect village and has been attracting sightseers ever since.

Adare

Adare

Shop:

Rococo Shoe Room at the Rose covered cottage—Where the beauty on the inside even surpasses the outside! Drool-inducing array, including Spanish designeres Paco Gil, Pedro Garcia and Pura Lopez, as well as quirky American Beverly Feldman

Dromoland Suite

Dromoland Suite

Stay:  Dromoland Castle near Newmarket-on-Fergus

We were awestruck upon arriving at Dromoland—it looks as if King Arthur and the knights will be back any minute.  Worth a night for the opulence.  Our room was extravagantly appointed, as were the common areas.

petit fours

petit fours

Eat:

Dromoland is an all-inclusive deal, so our meals were taken in the Earl of Thomond dining room.  While we enjoyed the flourish, pomp and circumstance, the food was unremarkable.  I enjoyed the turbot, which seemed fitting, and was grateful they were not serving pheasant, having noticed a large number of birds and hunters running around the grounds.  Breakfast was a similarly lavish affair, and all that silver is fun, even when they are serving white toast with your dry omelet.

Castle Fiddle Player

Castle Fiddle Player

Drink:

An after-dinner drink in the intimate bar is obligatory—listen to the fiddle player and try to count the number of Staffordshire dogs that decorate the walls.

Dromoland Knight

Dromoland Knight

Do:

While you can golf, boat, hunt pheasant or visit the Falconry, we chose the Leisure Center in the club house next door.  Swim, jaccuzi, steam, sauna, repeat.  We were made to purchase little black stretch bathing caps for 5e to enter the pool.  We must have looked suspect, because no one else was wearing them…

O'Connor's Pub, Doolin

O'Connor's Pub, Doolin

Dromoland to Galway via The Burren:

Departing Limerick and entering Clare, I was interested to see how things had changed since my last visit, seventeen years ago.  O’Connell’s Pub in Doolin is still there, but so are dozens (hundreds?) of vacation homes and B&Bs.  I’m sure the music scene is still thriving, but tourism has hit this area hard.

Galway City is music central—so many cool pubs in such a small area, plus fab restaurants and great shopping.  What a wonderful town!  We were there for Game 1 of Ireland vs France World Cup qualifying match.  While super to be in a Galway pub cheering Ireland on a Saturday night, the 1-0 outcome was a bummer.

Cliffs of Moher

Cliffs of Moher

En Route:

Cliffs of Moher—the majestic cliffs are a must in any season.  It’s probably a good thing that there is now fencing and roping, although few seem to abide the “STOP: Do not Enter” sign where the path has been blocked off.  The Cliffs are so windy, it can be hard to stand up-right, and I wonder how many have ended up below in the cold Atlantic…I’d rather be a wuss than a statistic!

The Burren

The Burren

Ennistimon, Lahinch, Doolin, Lisdoonvarna…cute little towns to drive through and scare up lunch en route to the R480 road through the Burren

The Burren—a fascinating, stark landscape; scenic drive to Poulnabrone, a simple, ancient burial site out in the middle of nowhere.  We zig-zagged the backroads to see as much as possible.

Bathroom, House Hotel

Bathroom, House Hotel

The House Hotel, Galway

The House Hotel, Galway

Stay:

The House Hotel, Merchant St, Galway—great location; Fun & modern décor.  Although the first  room we looked at was ug-ly, the upgraded larger room was fantastic and one of our faves.

Eat:

French Restaurant on Abbeygate?—casual, superb lunch

Nimmo’s—Cute, cozy and really good:  Butternut squash soup, risotto and a bottle of “Paddy” New Zealand Pinot Noir.  Super popular with locals and critics, which is nice

Galway Swan

Galway Swan

House of Thai—Fancy Thai; close to our hotel and perfect for a rainy Sunday night.

Butler’s—Decadent Hot Chocolate

Drink:

The Quays Pub—Our friend, Eithne, says it’s a must for a pint

Crane’s Bar—a 10 minute walk over the bridge from Quay St.  Great Trad music on Sunday afternoon and again on Sunday night, possibly every night

See & Do:

Walk!  Quay St and all the terrific shops around town

See the Swans on the Quay near the Spanish Arch

Walk to Salt Hill (2mi)—a pretty seaside promenade with shops and restaurants.   We gambled ((video roulette) in the casino for a little afternoon shelter and fun.

Quay St, Galway

Quay St, Galway

Castle for Sale

Castle for Sale

Galway to Sligo via Connemara:

We got up pretty early in the morning and prayed for good weather.  There’s no point in going to Connemara if you can’t see it and the area is known for fog and mist.  Luckily, although it rained, it was not deal-breaking and we persevered through the rugged mountain roads and lovely coastal towns, riveted by the sight.

En Route—

The Quiet Man Bridge—near Oughterard (Ook-ter ard).  The iconic John Wayne film was filmed on location in Connemara and you will find numerous references to it in any guidebook.

Roundstone—Cute, tiny town on the coast; we stopped for photos and a couple of bananas, since there had been no opportunity for a morsel of food between Galway and there, at least not at 8am.

LOVE Vintage

LOVE Vintage

Clifden—A bigger resort-town, with bakeries and restaurants.  I was devastated that the adorable store, LOVE Vintage, a kindred spirit, was not open:(

The Twelve Pins—We traveled back on N59 toward Galway, so we could take the R336 by Lough Inagh, to Kylemore Abbey.  The drive was one of the most scenic in Ireland, even in the rain—I can only imagine the lake with the towering mountains behind in the sunshine…

Kylemore Abbey

Kylemore Abbey

Kylemore Abbey—Arising out of the woods, the Abbey is that gorgeous castle you always see pictured next to anything mentioning Connemara.  Eleven elderly Nuns occupy the Abbey and they don’t miss a trick—there is a wonderful cafeteria/restaurant and a terrific gift shop on the grounds, selling jams, puddings, mohair throws and handknit socks.

Leenane—Made famous by the Martin McDonough play, “The Beauty-queen of Leenane”, driving along the Kilary Fjord on the way was beautiful.  We would have hit Westport, et al if it had not been pouring rain…

Donegal Oysters

Donegal Oysters

Guy Charlemagne

Guy Charlemagne

Sligo:

Aaaaaaah, Sligo.  After a long day of knuckle-baring driving, We arrived in the lovely neighborhood of Strandhill, greeted by our friends with a glass of 2000 Guy Charlemagne Grand Cru “Mesnillésime”.  And it only got better!  Irish hospitality is not lost on our American friends in Sligo, who wined, dined and tour-guided us for four days.  They own a killer wineshop, The WineBuff, and, due to their proximity to France and direct-import to Ireland, I swooned with envy over their selection and the prices.

Sligo Airport Cemetery

Sligo Airport Cemetery

See & Do–

Hike & Walk–Between the Harbor, ocean, lakes and rivers, there is a surplus of outdoor beauty and opportunity for hiking in the area.  There is an amazing cemetery and ruins on the airport property.  Beware of “The Travelers”–Fearless Irish gypsies who live in campers in various parking lots.  They seem to pick the best spots!

Shop–Sligo is an adorable town with some excellent shopping;  gourmet foods, artisan crafts and traditional Irish woolens & tweeds.  Mullaney’s on O’Connell St. was a delight.  If you ever make it there, budget at least an hour for a chat with John Mullaney, whose Father started the business a hundred years ago.  He is the epitome of Irish friendliness with a dose of blarney.

Seaweed Bath–See Box!

Seaweed Bath

Seaweed Bath--the best tonic for a cold, wet day; For 25e, you get a 50 minute private steam and seaweed bath. The seaweed is surprisingly velvety and supposedly great for your skin and hair!

Eat:

Montmartre–a superb French restaurant in Sligo–who knew?!  Local Smoked Salmon, Authentic Lapin du Moutarde, cheese plates and a reasonable wine list.

Stay:  Ryall Arms—An invitation-only 5-Star resort in prestigious Strandhill, complete with two energetic dogs to walk and greet you every morning.  Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner with Wine inclusive. (just kidding)

Donegal

Driving around Donegal was a highlight—so beyond beautiful at every turn.  Donegal town is a great place to shop and there are numerous cafes, like the Blueberry Tearoom,  for an afternoon sticky toffee pudding after a day of touring.

Lord Mountbatten's Castle

Lord Mountbatten's Castle

See & Do:

Glimpse the awe-inspiring turreted stone castle of the Late Lord Mountbatten in Mullaghmore

Solis Loch Eske

Solis Loch Eske

Eat:

Solis at Loch Eske Castle—We were somewhat humbled when we pulled up in our Toyota, given there were two dozen Range Rovers in the parking lot.  The humility grew exponentially, as we entered the grand resort to see elaborate sailing yacht ship models on display everywhere.  It turned out to be a “Sunseeker” sales meeting in rural Donegal, to be attended by clients from all over the world.  Solis is a stunning luxury resort–if you can’t afford to stay there, you can enjoy a club sandwich in the bar, as we did.

Red Guiness sign

Guiness whale sign

Two things to note about Ireland:

Never believe a sign you read;  Whether it says “Hours”, “OPEN”, “Do Not Enter”, etc  It may say “private”, but it’s no harm to look around.  If it says open until 11, they probably stop serving at 9.  If it says, “Bathing caps required”, they probably are not.

Simple pleasures.  My best food memories are of hot soups on cold days served with warm bread, café breaks with homemade desserts, hot chocolates made with care…If the menu says “Arancini”, consider yourself warned.

Lastly, and this is true wherever you go:

The joy is in the journey.

Ladies Room

Ladies Room

Kinsale Morning

Kinsale Morning