To Every wine I’ve loved before…

I remember that 1990 Nuits St George at Jean George so long ago.  And there was the Corton Charlemagne in the 18^th century caves of Latour. Aged and amber white burgundies at Jadot.  A thimbleful of 1964 Lafite-Rothschild (it was a half bottle shared among 8).

While these were great vintages, it’s the circumstance I remember so vividly, because what makes a wine truly memorable is usually the setting in which it’s enjoyed…the pleasure of the table.  While I’m a little spoiled in the fine wine department, it doesn’t have to be all pomp–a backyard BBQ makes me so happy in summer.  Friends and food—they can make a good wine unforgettable.  Of course, it doesn’t hurt when the wines are from Burgundy, but the point is that wines do not always need a white tablecloth to shine.

On a wine trip last year, I had an impromptu 2004 Dierberg chardonnay with Jim Dierberg in his majestic home in Happy Canyon, outside Santa Barbara.  We thought that we would be guided around the spectacular Neverland-scale property by a winery rep, but Jim showed up, himself, and after a tour over hill and dale in his Range Rover, he invited us in to share a glass–such an unexpected treat!  We learned so much about the man, the wine, the land;  a brief, but lovely visit and memory.

Wine and food.  The exponential pleasure derived from the combo still leaves me giddy.  Just last spring, a bottle of the unusual, distinctive (and inexpensive) 07 Conti di Buscareto Lacrima di Morro d’Alba at the Little Owl in the West Village made a phenomenal meal even more so.  I bought it for the store and when I opened a bottle, it was so…different.  The wine had been but one part of the perfect tsunami that was a super-memorable evening.  It’s still interesting and intriguing, but at the Little Owl, it was sublime.  A 2003 Sea Smoke “Southing” had the same effect at Blackeyed Susan’s:  good food became outrageously so.  I’m still dreaming of the Guy Charlemagne cuvee our hosts popped for us just last month in Ireland–a perfectly lavish wine that reflected the warmth and generosity of our friends.

A 1969 Remoriquet, a Kistler chardonnay, some Puligny-Montrachet…the wines of 2009 could be the start of a great musical, or at least a nice haiku.

Top 5 Wines I’d like to find under the tree:

07 Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, $60 (sale $48 at currentVintage)

Lush, round and mouthfilling decadence.  They sell this by the ($24) glass at the Waverly Inn in NYC, a restaurant known for it’s extravagances, ie $55 truffle mac-n-cheese, no telephone reservations, larger-than-life clientele, that mural of who’s whos…The food is good, but not great, and the attitude borders on Theatre of the Absurd, but somehow the experience always exceeds the sum of its parts–and a glass of this wine plays a big part!

07 Radio-Coteau “Savoy” Chardonnay, $56 (sale $45)

This wine stood out in a line-up of standouts at my birthday dinner.   Even after magnums of Pax rosé and Bouchard Batard-Montrachet and others were served, this elegant Sonoma Coast chardonnay, with hint of pear and lots of finesse, provoked head-turning, label studying reactions from most.  This also reminds me of the Radio-Coteau “Las Colinas” syrah we had at American Seasons, which reminds me of another night at AS with a Loring pinot noir…

02 Bouchard Pere et Fils “Clos St Marc”, Nuits St Georges, $90 (sale $72)

What we love about Burgundy—nuance.  Lip-smacking, yet layered with a long and lovely finish. A  savory and sophisticated pinot that is ready to drink.  A favorite of my Mark—we savored it with burgers on a warm summer night.

05 Larkin Cabernet Franc, $72 (sale $58)

Sexy & voluptuous.  It was love at first sip with this one.  Reminds me of the old Secret commercial:  Strong enough for a man, yet made for a woman!  I don’t know if this is intentional, but I can just imagine charismatic Sean Larkin crafting wines with women in mind.  A Nantucket Wine Festival favorite, check out the cute photo of Sean in our previous post on him in the May 2009 archive (above right).

98 Billecart Salmon “Cuvee Elisabeth”, $175 (sale $140)

Another birthday treat, this champagne is pure beauty:  Stunning bottle, gorgeous pink-amber color, lovely to savor.

While most NV champagnes are carefully calibrated to maintain a consistent “House style”, a vintage champagne offers a snapshot of a particular vineyard in a spectacular year.  The house of Billecart-Salmon, established in 1818, is known for their rosés, with the “Cuveé Elisabeth” being the pinnacle.  This sophisticated, velvety and complex champagne fascinates.  I am thrilled that a champagne of this beauty and style has my name on it:  Elisabeth!

All I want for Christmas is…any of these wines that remind me of some really wonderful times in 2009.

High praise–so lovely to receive!

As one who recently gushed over a number of boutiques and restaurants throughout  Ireland, it was fun to be on the receiving end recently when currentVintage was mentioned in several other web blogs.  It’s certainly grand to get national press, ahem, ( Lucky, Food & Wine) and recognition on high volume websites (Concierge, Indagare, Frommer’s, Self), but it’s particularly gratifying when freelance writers or individuals just like what you do and shout it to the world.  It’s also fine if they just mention you in passing—they were here and they took note.
Anyway, we just got the nicest write up on a very cool blog called “Corks + Caftans”.  The blog is written by a couple, Rob & Carey, and captioned “He loves wine; she loves fashion.”  They each post fun and interesting pieces, a lifestyle mix of useful wine & travel notes, fashion references and intimate anecdotes.  I have been reading their blog off and on for sometime and concluded that I would definitely like to hang out with them.  Thus,  I was especially delighted for Carey to write a little piece on currentVintage.

“If Corks + Caftans were an actual store, I think it’d be reminiscent of this lovely shop tucked away on a cobblestone street near the harbor at 4 Easy Street. The vintage selection is so insane… I almost bought a baby blue sequined tunic with a scalloped hem and am still kicking myself for this lapse in judgment. Walk among carefully selected accessories, dresses, racks of wine, fur-collared coats… it’s like being at Willy frackin’ Wonka’s.”

Corks + Caftans blog

Back in the summer, we were featured in the Food & Wine magazine blog by editor Jen Murphy.  She asked me to come up with some wine and summer fashion pairings and opened her post with this:

“It takes talent to match just the right wine with a dish. Some would also argue that it takes talent to match the perfect handbag or heels with a dress. That makes Elisabeth English, the owner of Nantucket’s Current Vintage, super-talented.”—Jen Murphy

Elisabeth English on Food & Wine

Another fun 2009 post featuring currentVintage was this one from The Fashion Examiner Blog Spot.  I was amused by their take on cV and the profile provided…

THE VIBE: Part Palm Beach vintage with some luxe items thrown in partnered with some select wine offering such as Sofia Coppola’s wine spritzers.

HIGHLIGHTS: the vintage Lilly Pulitzer cocktail and patio
dresses and the pink bug eyed sunglasses.

ON SALE: An adorable sail/architectural print sheath dress for under $100

WE BOUGHT: a cute brown pull on skirt with an embroidered mushroom cap for $35. The owner joked, “You just bought the cheapest thing on the Island”.

BROWNIE POINTS: The relaxed vibe and friendly owner who let us linger for close to an hour trying dresses on.

I also got a huge kick out of the title of this blog post from travel writer, Cathy Che, entitled “Preppy Nantucket: Alienated by Lilly Pulitzer without Irony”.  Che appreciated the natural beauty of Nantucket, but lamented the lack of originality in style and diversity on island. As I much as I revere the real Lilly Pulitzer, we could hardly be called preppy here at currentVintage, and fortunately, Che seemed to get our brand of cool:

“There are a few edgy shops like Current Vintage (refurbished Lilly Pulitzer and other chic vintage dresses plus fine wines) and Posh (fine handcrafted jewelry)”

“Preppy Nantucket: Alienated by Lilly Pulitzer without Irony”

The last blog post I’ll mention had particular significance for me, because it turned out I knew the author, although she did not know that she was writing about me!  Rebecca Chapa, an accomplished sommelier and wine educator, has a wine consulting company called “Tannin Management…Taking the Bitterness Out of Wine”.  She has an extensive restaurant wine background, working at Montrachet, Nobu and Tribeca Grill in New York, and as the first sommelier at Jardiniere in San Francisco, earning a “Best of Award of Excellence” from the Wine Spectator for their list.

Although a wine professional, Rebecca understands that wine can be enjoyed without fanfare.  Her blog, www.rebeccachapa.com, explores wine, spirits, travel and culture.  It was through the blog on “Nantucket: Off-Season” that I found her post mentioning currentVintage and realized that we used to work together at the Brotherhood in the early 90s!

“They have an amazing selection of lesser known cult wines including Scholium Project!  Pretty cool to see that someone here
knows what they’re doing.”—Rebecca Chapa on currentVintage

As one who loves to champion the elements of the currentVintage lifestyle, from winemakers to designers to destinations to bloggers, it’s nice to give and to receive.

In the last post, I left off with Dingle, the charming town ¾ of the way to the end of the Dingle Peninsula.  Having made our way from Dublin to Dingle over the course of a week, we had stayed in many nice places, eaten out 2-3 meals a day and were basically spoiled in the scenic sights department.

On a trip of this sort, things have to get progressively more interesting or the destinations at the start of the trip have an unfair advantage of being new and first, and therefore, remembered most fondly.  Well, Dingle did not disappoint.  The town is cute as it can be, even with nearly every single restaurant closed on a Thursday night.  We dined at the most beautiful restaurant, The Old Stone Bar & Grill, which I would recommend for drinks ONLY.  We ordered the mussels and some other small plates…not long after, we noticed a kitchen employee put his coat on and head out into the night.  When our mussels were served a bit later, they did not come with the usual homemade Irish soda bread.  No, we got a toasted hamburger bun.  It had pesto slathered on it, but it was still a boring white bun!

The cliffs at Slea Head and the rugged coast are breathtaking and the drive the next day, over the Connor Pass and to the flat sand beach on the northside of the peninsula was awesome.  The tide goes out nearly as far as you can see, so the beaches at lo-tide are fantastic.

While it was hard to depart the beauty of picture-perfect Dingle, the comforts of Dromoland Castle awaited.

Dingle to Dromoland:

We raced from Dingle to Dromoland, with barely a stop, in hopes of arriving in time for an afternoon walk with the hounds and some time at the spa.

En Route:

Visit the tiny village of Adare, home to a row of charming, if touristy,  thatch-roof cottages housing several boutiques.  The town was given it’s award-winning makeover by an Englishman in the 1820s, in effort to create the perfect village and has been attracting sightseers ever since.

Shop:

Rococo Shoe Room at the Rose covered cottage—Where the beauty on the inside even surpasses the outside! Drool-inducing array, including Spanish designeres Paco Gil, Pedro Garcia and Pura Lopez, as well as quirky American Beverly Feldman

Stay:  Dromoland Castle near Newmarket-on-Fergus

We were awestruck upon arriving at Dromoland—it looks as if King Arthur and the knights will be back any minute.  Worth a night for the opulence.  Our room was extravagantly appointed, as were the common areas.

Eat:

Dromoland is an all-inclusive deal, so our meals were taken in the Earl of Thomond dining room.  While we enjoyed the flourish, pomp and circumstance, the food was unremarkable.  I enjoyed the turbot, which seemed fitting, and was grateful they were not serving pheasant, having noticed a large number of birds and hunters running around the grounds.  Breakfast was a similarly lavish affair, and all that silver is fun, even when they are serving white toast with your dry omelet.

Drink:

An after-dinner drink in the intimate bar is obligatory—listen to the fiddle player and try to count the number of Staffordshire dogs that decorate the walls.

Do:

While you can golf, boat, hunt pheasant or visit the Falconry, we chose the Leisure Center in the club house next door.  Swim, jaccuzi, steam, sauna, repeat.  We were made to purchase little black stretch bathing caps for 5e to enter the pool.  We must have looked suspect, because no one else was wearing them…

Dromoland to Galway via The Burren:

Departing Limerick and entering Clare, I was interested to see how things had changed since my last visit, seventeen years ago.  O’Connell’s Pub in Doolin is still there, but so are dozens (hundreds?) of vacation homes and B&Bs.  I’m sure the music scene is still thriving, but tourism has hit this area hard.

Galway City is music central—so many cool pubs in such a small area, plus fab restaurants and great shopping.  What a wonderful town!  We were there for Game 1 of Ireland vs France World Cup qualifying match.  While super to be in a Galway pub cheering Ireland on a Saturday night, the 1-0 outcome was a bummer.

En Route:

Cliffs of Moher—the majestic cliffs are a must in any season.  It’s probably a good thing that there is now fencing and roping, although few seem to abide the “STOP: Do not Enter” sign where the path has been blocked off.  The Cliffs are so windy, it can be hard to stand up-right, and I wonder how many have ended up below in the cold Atlantic…I’d rather be a wuss than a statistic!

Ennistimon, Lahinch, Doolin, Lisdoonvarna…cute little towns to drive through and scare up lunch en route to the R480 road through the Burren

The Burren—a fascinating, stark landscape; scenic drive to Poulnabrone, a simple, ancient burial site out in the middle of nowhere.  We zig-zagged the backroads to see as much as possible.

Stay:

The House Hotel, Merchant St, Galway—great location; Fun & modern décor.  Although the first  room we looked at was ug-ly, the upgraded larger room was fantastic and one of our faves.

Eat:

French Restaurant on Abbeygate?—casual, superb lunch

Nimmo’s—Cute, cozy and really good:  Butternut squash soup, risotto and a bottle of “Paddy” New Zealand Pinot Noir.  Super popular with locals and critics, which is nice

House of Thai—Fancy Thai; close to our hotel and perfect for a rainy Sunday night.

Butler’s—Decadent Hot Chocolate

Drink:

The Quays Pub—Our friend, Eithne, says it’s a must for a pint

Crane’s Bar—a 10 minute walk over the bridge from Quay St.  Great Trad music on Sunday afternoon and again on Sunday night, possibly every night

See & Do:

Walk!  Quay St and all the terrific shops around town

See the Swans on the Quay near the Spanish Arch

Walk to Salt Hill (2mi)—a pretty seaside promenade with shops and restaurants.   We gambled ((video roulette) in the casino for a little afternoon shelter and fun.

Galway to Sligo via Connemara:

We got up pretty early in the morning and prayed for good weather.  There’s no point in going to Connemara if you can’t see it and the area is known for fog and mist.  Luckily, although it rained, it was not deal-breaking and we persevered through the rugged mountain roads and lovely coastal towns, riveted by the sight.

En Route—

The Quiet Man Bridge—near Oughterard (Ook-ter ard).  The iconic John Wayne film was filmed on location in Connemara and you will find numerous references to it in any guidebook.

Roundstone—Cute, tiny town on the coast; we stopped for photos and a couple of bananas, since there had been no opportunity for a morsel of food between Galway and there, at least not at 8am.

Clifden—A bigger resort-town, with bakeries and restaurants.  I was devastated that the adorable store, LOVE Vintage, a kindred spirit, was not open:(

The Twelve Pins—We traveled back on N59 toward Galway, so we could take the R336 by Lough Inagh, to Kylemore Abbey.  The drive was one of the most scenic in Ireland, even in the rain—I can only imagine the lake with the towering mountains behind in the sunshine…

Kylemore Abbey—Arising out of the woods, the Abbey is that gorgeous castle you always see pictured next to anything mentioning Connemara.  Eleven elderly Nuns occupy the Abbey and they don’t miss a trick—there is a wonderful cafeteria/restaurant and a terrific gift shop on the grounds, selling jams, puddings, mohair throws and handknit socks.

Leenane—Made famous by the Martin McDonough play, “The Beauty-queen of Leenane”, driving along the Kilary Fjord on the way was beautiful.  We would have hit Westport, et al if it had not been pouring rain…

Sligo:

Aaaaaaah, Sligo.  After a long day of knuckle-baring driving, We arrived in the lovely neighborhood of Strandhill, greeted by our friends with a glass of 2000 Guy Charlemagne Grand Cru “Mesnillésime”.  And it only got better!  Irish hospitality is not lost on our American friends in Sligo, who wined, dined and tour-guided us for four days.  They own a killer wineshop, The WineBuff, and, due to their proximity to France and direct-import to Ireland, I swooned with envy over their selection and the prices.

See & Do–

Hike & Walk–Between the Harbor, ocean, lakes and rivers, there is a surplus of outdoor beauty and opportunity for hiking in the area.  There is an amazing cemetery and ruins on the airport property.  Beware of “The Travelers”–Fearless Irish gypsies who live in campers in various parking lots.  They seem to pick the best spots!

Shop–Sligo is an adorable town with some excellent shopping;  gourmet foods, artisan crafts and traditional Irish woolens & tweeds.  Mullaney’s on O’Connell St. was a delight.  If you ever make it there, budget at least an hour for a chat with John Mullaney, whose Father started the business a hundred years ago.  He is the epitome of Irish friendliness with a dose of blarney.

Seaweed Bath–See Box!

Eat:

Montmartre–a superb French restaurant in Sligo–who knew?!  Local Smoked Salmon, Authentic Lapin du Moutarde, cheese plates and a reasonable wine list.

Stay:  Ryall Arms—An invitation-only 5-Star resort in prestigious Strandhill, complete with two energetic dogs to walk and greet you every morning.  Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner with Wine inclusive. (just kidding)

Donegal

Driving around Donegal was a highlight—so beyond beautiful at every turn.  Donegal town is a great place to shop and there are numerous cafes, like the Blueberry Tearoom,  for an afternoon sticky toffee pudding after a day of touring.

See & Do:

Glimpse the awe-inspiring turreted stone castle of the Late Lord Mountbatten in Mullaghmore

Eat:

Solis at Loch Eske Castle—We were somewhat humbled when we pulled up in our Toyota, given there were two dozen Range Rovers in the parking lot.  The humility grew exponentially, as we entered the grand resort to see elaborate sailing yacht ship models on display everywhere.  It turned out to be a “Sunseeker” sales meeting in rural Donegal, to be attended by clients from all over the world.  Solis is a stunning luxury resort–if you can’t afford to stay there, you can enjoy a club sandwich in the bar, as we did.

Two things to note about Ireland:

Never believe a sign you read;  Whether it says “Hours”, “OPEN”, “Do Not Enter”, etc  It may say “private”, but it’s no harm to look around.  If it says open until 11, they probably stop serving at 9.  If it says, “Bathing caps required”, they probably are not.

Simple pleasures.  My best food memories are of hot soups on cold days served with warm bread, café breaks with homemade desserts, hot chocolates made with care…If the menu says “Arancini”, consider yourself warned.

Lastly, and this is true wherever you go:

The joy is in the journey.

Arriving in Dublin at 4 am was not ideal.  Our flight from Boston caught a tailwind and deposited us in Ireland an hour earlier than what would have already been too early.  Thank goodness for the charming and sympathetic clerk at the Westbury, who taking pity upon us, snuck us into our room 10 hours before check in without charging us for an extra night.  We would have been happy with the maid’s closet, but the Junior suite we got was terrific—spacious but comfy with a pair of fab modern (not dated) burgundy velvet chairs.  We slept ‘til 11, then began our 2-week holiday with lunch at Dunne & Crescenzi, which was perfect.

The reason to go to Ireland is for the culture.  Not just the history and landscape, but the culture.  Even if you think you aren’t into beer drinking and traditional Irish music, you have to hang at the pub.  While the waiters and hotel staff are always cheerful, it is in the pubs where you really meet locals, and the people are where it’s at–Irish people are so friendly, so clever, so generous, so lovely.  Obviously, people make the country wherever you go, but when you are not traveling in an exotic place, but an English-speaking country similar to your own, meeting people is your only real window into any nuances of culture that distinguish the two.  The Lonely planet says ‘don’t go to Ireland without bringing a raincoat and a hollow leg’.  While there’s some truth to that–it will rain almost everyday, but usually not for too long…then again, sometimes for two days–the drinking part isn’t 100% true.  We made friends even when we were obviously pathetic lightweight yanks sipping Carlsberg by the glass in lieu of downing the black stuff by the pint.  Ok, maybe we participated a little more fully than that, but you don’t have to…

Renting a car has the added bonus of Irish radio.  We listened to the Jerry Ryan show everyday and thus learned of current politics and issues, as well as the national obsession with “The X Factor”–the UK version of “America’s Got Talent”.  Silly me had never heard of “Jedward” before November 4, but I did not go one day in Ireland without hearing or seeing of the duo.  And talk about timing–we were there for the two heartbreaking Ireland-France World cup qualifying games, the outcome of which is still being contested due to the blatantly illegal winning goal, now known as “Henri-Gate”, after the French culprit.

Although there are plenty of happening restaurants and modern cooking in Ireland, the country is still not known for the food.  Maybe it was because,  coming from Nantucket and New York, we are pretty spoiled, or, perhaps because it is hard to be dazzled when you eat out so many days in a row, but we were less than euphoric over most of our Irish dining experiences. That being the case, the high points were really high, so I thought I would emphasize the food highlights of our journey as well as the sights.  The reality is, you can’t see every ruin, love every meal or drink in every pub, so here is my list of what is really worth it.

One caveat about fall/winter travels:  We were traveling in November and it is definitely the off-season for tourist destinations like Kerry and Dingle.  There was still plenty to do and see and no shortage of beauty and charm, but it did mean that a lot of places were only open weekends, if at all.  In addition to the off-season handicap, many restaurants all over are closed Sundays and smaller stores close Sunday & Monday.  Not a surprise coming from off-season Nantucket, but sometimes disappointing, nonetheless.  The worst part is, it’s still expensive!  The off-season specials only kept it from being very expensive, especially with the flagging dollar.  Rugged landscapes, beautiful lakes, lovely people, green pastures, gray skies, rainbows, castles, sheep…Ireland is visual splendor at any time of year.

Where & What–Dublin

Dublin is a blast. We had so much fun there, landing with a friend at McDaid’s (just off Grafton, right across from the Westbury –Hillary Clinton was spotted there recently) for a Guinness on our first night.   Most of our adventures were on the Southside, since we only had three days.  I chose the cultural tour, ie eating & drinking, Vintage shopping with my darling friend, Kate,  and admiring the footwear at Brown Thomas, while Mark did the historical city bus tour–the Guinness Factory, etc.  One of our Dublin highlights was a wonderful theatre piece, Johnny Patterson, at Project Arts Centre in Temple Bar.

Stay:

Westbury Hotel—location, location, location;  corporate sort of lobby, but excellent rooms

Eat:

Dunne & Crescenzi—Excellent Italian;  everything was fabulous

The Winding Stair—Just over the ha’penny bridge.  Good, not great–but bread & butter pudding was to die for. You cannot overestimate the pounds of Kerrygold in this dessert…like heaven on the way to calorie-hell. fyi, Bread Pudding and Sticky toffee pudding were consistently delish all over Ireland

Fallon & Byrne—A trendy downstairs hall serving wine and small plates below a stupendous Dean & Deluca-like market.  The best Smoked salmon on brown bread we had in Ireland!

Gruel:  Awesome corned Beef sandwich and hot soup for a cold day

Queen of Tarts:  Plum tart with vanilla ice cream was to die for…go here after soup at Gruel.

Powerscourt Townhouse restaurant (street level):  THE BEST SCONE IN IRELAND.  Go ahead—jam, Irish butter, clotted cream.  You will not have one like this again.

See:

Trinity College Old Library—If you see one sight, it must be this.  Book of Kells (or ‘Page of Kells’–there are only 2 pages on view:) and Long Library, with the library being the real attraction.

Drink:

McDaid’s pub for great pint of Guinness

John Kehoe on Grafton also good

Baileys Bar on Duke St for UNBELIEVABLE hot chocolate with Baileys outside under heat lamps

Music:

Hughes Bar on the Northside—the real deal old Irish pub with killer “Trad” (traditional) music–worth seeking out!

Krystle: IF you’re in to the VIP club scene, this is the place to go for it!  Two floors, indoors, outdoors = not boring

Shop:

Brown Thomas shoe department—just for appreciation!

Powercourt Townhouse—gorgeous exposed brick, cool boutiques, pop-up vintage store on Saturdays!

Avoca Handweavers—cool Anthropology-esque store with killer café for lunch or coffee and sweets

Weekend Markets!

Meeting House Lane market had all kinds of food vendors; Cow Lane = cool handmade stuff

Dublin Places we heard were great and WISH we could have patronized:

Toner’s Pub, Ely Winebar, Bar Italia

Where & What–Dublin to Kilkenny

Kilkenny is a vibrant, beautiful medieval town with a happening arts scene that is also the home of another great Ireland brew, Smithwick’s Ale.  The main attraction is the castle and we stayed in close proximity.  The castle itself is more about scale than opulence, but the grounds are lovely.  Kilkenny seemed like a really nice place to live.

En route:

Stop at Glendalough in Co. Wicklow for an hour or so.  Monastic church ruins on a lake…So beautiful and magical, it feels like St. Kevin just left.

Stay:

The Butler House—B & B manse adjacent to grounds of Kilkenny castle.  Not inexpensive, but wonderful for a night.  The president of Ireland stayed in our suite two weeks before we did…aren’t upgrades grand?

Eat:

Kilkenny Design Center Kitchen—Breakfast, lunch, or dessert;  serves breakfast for Butler House guests–one of the best Irish Breakfasts we had.  Basically, an upscale cafeteria with really good food.

See:

Kilkenny Castle–home to 650 years of the Butler Family

St. Canice’s Cathedral–great!  Climb the round tower and see the tombs of the some of the Butler clan

Black Abbey—small but great if you talk to the Friar and get the history

Shop:

Kilkenny Design Center—a group of amazing art and modern boutiques featuring cool, functional clothing, furniture and home goods made in Ireland.

Where & What–Kilkenny to Kinsale

Postcard-pretty Kinsale is called the Nantucket (or Newport) of Ireland.  We enjoyed just walking, dining and hanging for a couple of days.

En Route:

Awe-inspiring Rock of Cashel is worthwhile, even in the rain. Picturesque Lismore is nearly shut down in winter, but we enjoyed looking at the closed for the winter sights and had the most fun cup of coffee at the Rustic Cafe.

Stay:

The Old Bank House—nice, comfy B&B in the best location

Eat:

Fishy Fishy Cafe—A MUST; lunch only:(

Jola’s—absolutely gorgeous room with exposed brick, chandelier and fireplace.  John Dory with sultanas was amazing; local cheeses

Drink:

The Spaniard—Cozy, fun Irish pub with great trad music and peat fireplace;  nice walk up the hill

The Bulmen in gorgeous Summercove—the spot for an afternoon outdoor pint, even in winter

Blue Haven—When you want more than a pub; nice for a glass of wine by the fire

See:

Sunrise on the harbor

Old Head golf course—scenic 20 minute drive from town.  It’s posted closed/private, but you can’t believe most signs in Ireland

Shop:

Granny’s Bottom Drawer—Adorable store with eclectic mix of vintage linens, local designer wear and home goods

Where & What–Kinsale to Kenmare

Coastal Western Cork is breathtaking, even in the rain, as we saw it.

En Route:

Timoleague Abbey–off R600.  Moody, photogenic c1305 gothic abbey ruins just 12 mi. west of Kinsale that house a covey of pigeons

Drombeg Stone Circle–off R597.  Worth a look–a mini-Stonehenge sitting on a hill.  A 1500 yr. old slice of history surrounded by pasture.

Bantry Bay–Homemade soup and Fish & Chips on a rainy day at Fish Kitchen on New St in Bantry was amazing (upstairs above fishmonger);  Shopping at Gazelle, on Bridge St (across from Water Wheel) was even more so! Personable English shop owner, great Irish and European designs.  (New St and Bridge St are the same street–name changes several times as it does on most city center streets in Ireland)

Stay:

Brook Lane–an attractive “boutique” hotel on the edge of Kenmare;  the look is mod and not always successful.

Eat:

Jam Cafe–When you have had it with the full Irish breakfast (only in Ireland would oatmeal be a first course), go to Jam for a coffee and scone by the fire.

Salvados–A cute little Spanish tapas and pizza place

Where & What–Kenmare to Dingle Peninsula

Entering the Ring of Kerry was amazing, just as they say.  In Autumn, the hills are not just brown, but every shade of yellow to orange to brown, which makes for a rich landscape tapestry.  We opted not to do the whole ring and proceeded to the Dingle peninsula.  The coastal road into Dingle was nice, but the rugged coast beyond Dingle town is what’s really special.  Leaving via the Connor Pass to the north side of the Dingle peninsula was awesome, as well.

En Route: Stop in Killarney National Park for a few hours and visit Torc Waterfall and Muckross House.  The town of Aghadoe outside Killarney is charming.

Stay:

Benner’s Hotel, Dingle–not the cheapest, but comfy and convenient plus a Dingle landmark.  It’s also a place with a little life and ambiance in the off-season!

Drink:

Irish coffee at Mrs. Benner’s Bar

See:

Slea Head–The spectacular loop drive beyond Dingle through tiny Irish-speaking villages was one of the highlights of our trip.

Beehive Huts–(historic rock monk cells) there are some just before Slea Head on someone’s private property.  The owner sits in a booth and his dog opens the window with his paw when anyone walks up.  That was worth the price of admission right there.

DAY 1

1 pm:  We landed at JFK and proceeded directly to Il Buco at 47 Bond St., for what would begin copious consumption of Italian food & drink over the next three days.

If the charming miss-matched farm house décor that inspired Nantucket’s Sfoglia isn’t enough, one whiff of the hearty aromas emerging from the kitchen and you’d understand why….

To Eat:

*Cavolonero Salad—A black kale Caesar

*An Olive oil tasting of various aged Umbrian and Sicilian oils

*Butternut squash polenta—to die for!

*Pappardelli with mint & zucchini—so fresh and yummy

To Drink:

A glass of Pecorino—a peculiar white wine from the Marche.  Full-bodied enough to stand up to a hearty luncheon, with enough mild acidity to cut the rich oils

CHECK IN:

Tribeca Grand—We were terrified checking in, fearing that upon seeing our “Booked on Priceline” status, the reservationist would stick us in a first floor room by the elevator.  But no, we were most delighted to be booked into a top floor room far from the elevator,  with terrific views of the rooftops of Tribeca.

It should be noted that the Tribeca Grand is a sister property of the Soho Grand and both are a bit of a scene.  Whereas at the Soho Grand, the scene is mainly in the bar, at the Tribeca Grand, the lobby IS the bar and, being an atrium hotel, you can look down at (AND HEAR) the bar from every floor.  Since the hotel is only 8 floors high, every room, while being quite spacious, has the potential to be a noise nightmare, given the atrium design.  However, the TG cleverly has white noise speakers mounted above the hallway entrance to each room and another mounted above the doorway inside the room.  So, no matter what the chaos is down below, you will be pleasantly oblivious.

I was afraid the TG would be a little tired, since it’s days as a hot hot spot have passed, but it still draws an interesting mix of European and domestic travelers and we found it to be plenty boutique-y. and an awesome location.

ERRANDS:

Carmine St Shoe Repair—I dropped off a bag of shoes & boots in various states of disrepair to Michael, as I do every trip to NYC.  I rented a lace on Carmine St for a month a few years back, and he still thinks I live in the neighborhood.  No matter how many pairs I bring, they are always ready the next day.  One of the many things I love about nyc.

Crown Jewelers, W. 8^th St at 6th Ave—I stayed at the Washington Square Hotel for a couple of weeks once and this became my home away from home jeweler.  They have resuscitated and strengthened a number of my estate finds.

PRE-THEATRE BEVERAGE:

Marseille, 9th Ave & 44th–Lucky for me, my Godparents from NC were also in nyc.  They are Uptown-types, so we met in Hell’s Kitchen for a toast at this French Brasserie in the Theatre District and caught up at the bustling bar.

THEATRE:

God of Carnage—The Tony-winning all star cast ends their run in the month of November.  While there are a lot of talented people in the world, I cannot imagine another ensemble as tight or with the chemistry (as they self-destruct) of this one featuring Marcia Gay Harden, James Gandolfino, Hope Davis and Jeff Daniels. It became very clear to me why Marcia Gay won the Tony.  Catch it while you can.

DINNER:

Locanda Verde, 377 Greenwich St (corner of N.Moore and Greenwich)—Ken Friedman (Spotted Pig, Rusty Knot) and Robert De Niro’s new place in the Greenwich Hotel.  Gorgeous high ceiling, exposed brick and giant paned windows; swish, but casual.  Tiny round bar tables could barely hold all we wanted to eat & drink.  We were pleased to see the sommelier who we met at Cru last winter.

*Cotechino Sausage crostino with pickled ramps on ciabatta

*Pumpkin Agnolotti with brown butter, sage and amaretti

*Roasted Brussels Sprouts with pancetta and pecorino

*Giant rigatoni stuffed with a duck ragu

To Drink:

06 JERMANN Mjzzu ‘Blau & Blau’ (Italy)–90% Franconia, a.k.a. Blau-fraenkisch, and 10% Pinot Nero or Blauburgunder (hence the name).  Elegant & harmonious; slightly fruity with a hint of herb and menthol.  Perfect with the slightly sweet Fall flavors of our meal.

DAY 2

BREAKFAST:

Room Service—coffee and oatmeal w/ bananas

11am:  currentVintage buying appt.

LUNCH:

Capsouto Fréres, 451 Washington St

Charming, old school restaurant with white tablecloths and waiters in black vests with crisp white shirts & aprons.  They are known for an awesome variety of soufflés and an unusually large selection of Israeli wines.

To Eat:

Wild Mushroom & Cheese Soufflé

Salade Nicoise

Fig Soufflé with crème Anglaise & coffee

To Drink:

07 GALIL Sauvignon Blanc, Galilee

Even knowing that CF is known for their Israeli wine list, I was reluctant to try this sauvignon blanc.  I wasn’t sure it would stand up to and/or complement the rich fare…and, I wanted something plus francaise.  Nevertheless, our practically mute waiter nearly insisted that I should have this and I did, and he was so right!

Interesting and fuller-bodied, citrusy & herbaceous with a subtle mineral backbone; it was like none other that I have enjoyed. It was delicious.

3pm:  Apple Store, Prince St, Soho:  I think of some reason to have an appt. at this store every time I go to nyc, even if the appt is at midnight!  It’s just such a cool place and there is an army of young, passionate Apple people to help with your quest for whatever.

This time I got the 3Gs, but other free appointments have been to learn how to sync my phone & computer, etc.

5pm:  Hair Salon—Carmine St, again.  $25 and better than Frederic Fekkai

DRINKS & DINNER:

Crosby Hotel—Owned by a boutique hotel group from London, the Crosby had just opened a few days before.  The décor is English quirky & eccentric:  outsider, folk and modern art, such as a wall-mounted installation of vintage telephones.  The scale keeps it from feeling cluttered.  We enjoyed overpriced wine and beverages at the uncomfortable low Indian mirrored tables and at the comfortable grand bar on luxe bar stools.

Civetta, 98 Kenmare (near Crosby; betw Mulberry & Centre). Friends Ron and Colleen Suhanosky who own Sfoglia in Nantucket and New York are consulting partners in this homey but swank Italian eatery in Nolita.

Downstairs drinks in the red velvet-curtained lounge in a semi-private booth were comfy and easy with excellent service, even if the bar was a bit of a décor disconnect from the restaurant upstairs.

To Eat:

Once we were seated, we were treated like Royalty, which is always nice.

Arancini with sausage & fontina, Mussels w/ fennel, Lemony Risotto, Orgasmic Bolognese.  As if that wasn’t enough, they had the nerve to send out a tablefull of sinful desserts, which were all amazing, from what I can remember.

DAY 3

BREAKFAST:

Room Service—coffee and oatmeal w/ bananas

11am–Fort Greene Flea Market—We went ALL THE WAY TO BROOKLYN and what a mistake.  It was freezing cold and threatening rain, so any vendor with a brain was at home or at the movies.  Only about a dozen vendors showed up, which were mostly interesting, but the whole experience including tamales lasted about 20 minutes.

Errands—The Chinese “wholesale only” store on 28^th St. that sells boxes of 24 blinking bling rings for $12.

LUNCH:
Joe’s Shanghai, Pell St (betw. Mott & Bowery)—the famous, delicious, perfect for a cold blustery day soup buns…yum.  So unbelievably savory good and so ridiculously inexpensive.  Even a can of diet coke is only a $1.

4pm:  Facial with May at the Styling House, across the street from Joe’s.  $45 facial ($65 with collagen).

Lie down on the least comfortable terry towel-covered cot in the back room of the salon for 2+ hours of tending and maintenance and you will walk out looking 10 years (or so) younger.  Sometimes, it is significantly more than 2 hours, because there are two cots and she does two at a time.

OPERA:

Tosca at Lincoln Center—Majestic setting for world class talent and sophisticated, international patrons.  The pageantry and grandiosity are spellbinding, but three Acts is a lot for my weary self.

DINNER:

Salumeria Rosi, 283 Amsterdam Ave. (73rd / 74th St)—My friend Cesare Casella’s place; it is chic but cozy, and spot on in every way.  Cesare is also the Dean of the Italian Culinary Institute!

To Eat:

Pontormo salad of greens and scrambled eggs, antipasto platters of salumi and cheese, heirloom bean salad. This is THE PLACE for salumi and cheese and beans;  don’t miss the Il Parmacotto prosciutto (eel PAHR-mah-KOH-to).  This is also the place for the best lasagne I have ever had—AND, it is in an appetizer portion—how awesome is that at midnight?

To Drink:

I always dine at the tiny little bar, where you can see each bottle of wine available by the glass and discuss little tastes of each with the super fun and knowledgeable (and handsome) Rafael, til you find what you’re looking for.

NIGHT CAP:

A late-night glass of Perrier Jouet in the VIP hotel guest section at the Tribeca Grand.  Saturday night is not exactly locals night (and maybe no night is at the TG), but it was nice to have a spacious, comfortable spot from which to watch the goings on.

DAY 4

BREAKFAST:

Room Service: coffee, oatmeal

12pm:  JFK:(

http://www.salumeriarosi.com/experience_experience.php

http://www.ilbuco.com/

http://locandaverdenyc.com/

Many in the food and wine world are mourning the closing of  Gourmet magazine after more nearly 70 years of publication.  What does that mean for the cerebral epicurean?  How does that reflect on the populist palate?  What does it bode for the future of print media?  How could they do that to Ruth Reichl?!  For me, it is more sentimental…

By chance, Gourmet magazine changed my life.

I found my reluctant self in Clemson, SC in January1989.  I had taken a couple of years off from school while playing around in Nantucket, and now it was time to return, finish courses and graduate.

I was in a somewhat ideal living situation.  The apartment at 8 Lakewood Terrace was nothing to brag about, but the location was great and I shared the space with two absentee roommates.  The $88 each/month was such that my girlfriends didn’t mind paying just to have a place for the two weekends a year their parents came to visit.   So there I was, alone in my capacious cinder block 3 bedroom apartment, wondering how I was going to abide a year in this small college town.

My friends and I were a few years older than the average student and having ‘been there, done that’ with the party scene, we were searching for entrée into a new social context.  We liked to go to restaurants but, other than Los Hermanos (the local favorite Mexican place where I worked in a peach tiered ruffle Mexican dress), there were few options beyond boiled peanuts and beer.  An invitation came to me in the form of a subscription renewal card to Gourmet, intended for the previous tenants.  I had never heard of Gourmet magazine, but as the proud owner of the Silver Palate cookbooks and having dined at 21 Federal, et al on Nantucket, I was certain that the “Magazine of Good Living” was for me, ie, I had a lot to learn.

Without hesitation, I checked the box, wrote my check for $10 and mailed it in.  In retrospect, I’m surprised I did not overnight it, so electrified as I was at the thought of possibilities the magazine would bring…(probably because there was no overnight delivery back then.  Think about it—in 1989 there were no cell phones, pc’s–or even affordable cashmere sweaters.)

I cannot remember the first issue exactly, but I know I read it cover to cover.  The Paris Journal, The London Journal. Salzburg, Bangkok, Sydney and Maui.  Guides to all of these places I had not yet been. I struggled through Gerald Asher’s Wine Journal and memorized reviews of Gotham Bar & Grill. This was not always enjoyable, given my lack of worldly experience with fine wine and New York dining, but I must have had a sense of foreshadowing, given what a big part both play in my life today!

“Gastronomie sans Argent”—that was more my style—and I always looked for the little clock symbol, indicating a quick preparation, since the reality was that even those recipes would take me hours to complete.  From fondue parties to New Years Eve feasts, Gourmet represented the lifestyle I wanted to lead.

Although I had no knife skills—or even knives–I had a party to test my kitchen prowess, and my new friends loved it.  We made it a regular event;  I spent all of my tips on cooking ingredients and my guests brought bottles of Taylor and, if they were feeling spendy, Gundlach Bundschu, to drink.

I subscribed to Gourmet all through the 90s and continued my self-taught education as a home cook.  Thus, it is not surprising that Gourmet recipes were a big part of  my portfolio when I was hired to open a ‘gourmet’ sandwich & coffee shop on Nantucket in 1994.  I continued to mine the Gourmet files when I joined another restaurant, Provisions, and, less than a decade after the first subscription, began my Provisions Catering business.

From the beautiful photography to the exotic destinations to the lofty musings to the black & white restaurant ads for La Cote Basque and Le Perigord in the back, I relished it all.  Eventually, I got to many of the restaurants and destinations that Gourmet had first introduced me to, but more importantly, I came to understand the essential Gourmet message:  the appreciation of ‘good living” as a way of life.  At Provisions, good living included our homemade cookies, soups and fresh bread, as well as the most esoteric hors d’oeuvre I could dream up.  It includes organic produce, fresh sushi and abstaining from jug wine.  It has resulted in a greater appreciation for Bartlett corn, South Carolina peaches and Juice Bar ice cream.  It has led to pleasures of the table I may have never known.

These days, I own currentVintage,  a wine & vintage boutique, and spend several months a year traveling to interesting destinations all over the US and beyond, particularly New York.

Yes, Gourmet magazine changed my life.

As a year-round resident of Nantucket and shopkeeper in this island resort community, there are two recurring questions/comments that one must perennially endure:

What do you DO in the winter?

It MUST be nice having the winter off (sniff, sniff)…

The first assumes there is nothing to do in Nantucket. Although there is some truth to that, particularly in March, we generally spend the winter working, renting movies, dining with friends, renting movies…Just like the rest of the Northeast, as well as much of country.

Regarding the second comment, the concept of “having the winter off” is a bit of an oxymoron to a small business owner.  My “seasonal” business is open generally seven days a week April-December and weekends in the dead of winter.  We close a couple of days a week in November, but that hardly makes up for the 9am-11pm schedule of July & August!  In the off-season, I travel incessantly to source our vintage inventory for the upcoming season.  It is a choice and the lifestyle I have chosen, but it is not quite exactly having the winter “off”, as in poolside in St Barths or three months in Aspen.  That said, I do spend a lot of time “sourcing” in some very un-wintery places…Mar a Lago, anyone?  But after traveling like mad all winter, and working like crazy all spring and summer, I am fantasizing about downtime.

This being the week after Labor Day, currentVintage now closes at 8:00 during the week–how great it will be to have some nights at home surfing the computer, organizing my shoes, applying a face masque—and of course, watching movies.

In that spirit, I thought I’d share some funny You Tube videos.  I am not up on You Tube like I am on wine and fashion;  these are not the latest releases.  These are NOT “cult’ following insider selections that are known only to me and my friends.  These are not particularly provocative or necessarily major artistic works of art.  They are mainstream, been-around-the-forwarded-emails-block, seen by thousands if not millions.

Perhaps it is culturally significant that everyone from a Burger King worker in East LA to 20-somethings in St Paul to the citizens of Antwerp to a 3-yr old in New York City all have the exact same dance moves, but that is not the point.  Bottom line is they crack me up, and if you are as tired and weary as I am after this marathon of a summer, the guilty pleasure of hanging out and laughing hard probably sounds really good.

My top 5 favorite make-me-smile You Tube videos*.

*Note the Broadway influence–it was all I could do to resist including Susan Boyle.

HAIR:  A 3-yr old Member of the Tribe!

Hang in for the first 40 seconds and you will realize you’re witnessing the next Gavin Creel–A three-year old member of the tribe!

“Do Re Mi”

A spectacular, seemingly spontaneous Sound of Music routine involving 200? dancers in an Antwerp train station –This will be the happiest 4 minutes of your day!

“Les Misbarack”

A year old now, this video brings back all of the energy and enthusiasm of the campaign trail a year ago.  The music is as exhilarating in this video as it is on a Broadway stage.

Bon Qui Qui at King Burger

Anjelah Johnson of MAD tv is brilliant.  Not that I would have known that if my savvy 9, 11 and 13-yr old nieces hadn’t set me straight last Christmas.  I loved her from “Don’t get crazy”.

“Forever” Wedding Dance

The popularity of this summer video has outlived some marriages…Given that their wedding song is by Chris Brown, Jill and Kevin of St Paul are using the popularity of their You Tube video and Today show to raise awareness of and funds for domestic violence