Is that a 2X4 that I smell in my glass?

Wine tasting notes will often refer to wines as being oaky, but what exactly does that mean?  The use of oak in winemaking can play an important role in the final product in several different ways.

First of all, you must consider the source of the wood.  Most American oak barrels typically come from the species Quercus alba, which is a white oak species.  This oak has wider grains and lower wood tannins.  The wider grains allows for a quicker, more concentrated release of aromas into the wine.  American oak typically imparts flavors of vanilla and more sweet nuances, along with coconut (think sunscreen) and dill (think pickles).  This oak is used for big, powerful reds and for Chardonnays from warmer climates.

In France, Quercus petrea is more common for its finer grain and richer aromatic components.   French oak produces silky, softer style tannins.  Warm sensations such as baking spices (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg) are more apparent with this type of wood.  In France, some winemakers choose their wood from one specific forest as they each forest will have slightly different nuances on the final blend.  Due to the finer grain of French oak, less of the tree may be used in barrel production.  Therefore, the cost of French barrels is more than that of American barrels.

Others types of oak are sometimes used including Hungarian, Slovanian and even Russian oak from near the Black Sea.  These barrels tend to be less expensive alternatives that either French or American oak.

Another varying degree of oak barrels is the amount of ‘toast’ inside the barrel.  Yes, it’s the same concept of when you ‘toast’ a piece of bread (not the toast at your friend’s wedding…).  Toasting ranges from lightly charred, medium toast, to heavily toasted.  The lighter the toasting, the more of the original oak flavor is imparted on the wine, where the heavier the toast, you see a reduction in the coconut notes and perhaps a slight reduction in the color of the wine as it reacts to the toastiness of the barrel.

The size of a barrel is important to take into consideration in regards to the ratio of surface area to volume.  The most common size is the Bordeaux barrique which hold 59 gallons (225 liters).  The next most common is the Burgundy barrique at 60 gallons (228 liters).  Some wine producers will use a foudre, a large barrel made of oak (or chestnut) and used in other parts of France, that can range in size from 150-350 hectoliters.  These large vessels are used more to age the wine than for the qualities the wood may impart on the wine itself.  On the smaller side, often used by home winemakers are mini-barrels which may hold 1-10 liters of juice.

This takes us to the age of a barrel and it’s varying effects.  The first time a barrel is used, it provides a wine with good texture and a substantial amount of tannins.  With each subsequent years the barrel is in use, the nuances that it offers become less and less.  Some wineries will only use 100% new oak every year (now you know why that wine costs so much!).  Others will use the barrel up to three years, then scrap the inside of the barrel, retoast it to their specifications, then put it back into rotation.  Some only used ’seasoned’ barrels (those who have been used several years without a retoasting) and refer to them as neutral barrels that will impart very little on their wine, but do allow it to age with a slight exposure to oxygen.

Next time you are tasting your wine and feel like you are in the forest, think about all these factors about barrels that the winemaker takes into consideration when crafting their product.–Jenny Benzie

Elisabeth with Denis Toner (center) at Francois Freres

Kistler oak at Francois Freres

Toasted barrels

Wine and cheese pairing…is it art?  Perhaps, but it’s not that hard to create.  You are basically seeking a balance of salt and sweet.  Some are intuitive, some more cerebral, but all should bring great tastebud joy that you will want to replicate time and time again.  We start with artisanal cheeses À Point (at peak), or aged to perfection, rotating our inventory based on season and availability.  We taste a lot, and when a combo makes our heart sing, we write it down!

In cheese-plating, as in art, there are no rules, but there are guidelines, such as begin with the mildest and progress to the most pungent.  Ideally, a contrast of milks, countries and textures;  condiments, fruit and crackers are totally optional.  My standard cheese plate usually begins with a Goat and features Comte in the third or fourth position.  Beyond that, anything goes.

Here, we share some of our available cheeses and favorite pairings, just as we do with all of the wines in our store.  Consider a cheese course for your next dinner party–we would love to help you create a Masterpiece.

COUPOLE:
USA (Vermont)/Goat

The Coupole is a fresh, soft, young goat’s milk cheese that is shaped like a small dome and lightly dusted with vegetable ash. It hails from the ambitious new Loire-Valley-style production facility at Vermont Butter and Cheese Creamery, where they have been pioneering innovative dairy products for more than 25 years. As the Coupole ages, a slightly wrinkled skin develops, and the paste softens. Approximately 8 oz.

Suggested Pairing:
Saumur Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Unoaked Chardonnay, Maybe Viognier

HOJA SANTA:

HOJA SANTA

(OH-ha SAHN-tah)
USA (Texas)/Goat

Hoja Santa was created by legendary cheese maker Paula Lambert, owner of the Mozzarella Company in Dallas, Texas. Paula thoughtfully created a cheese that reflects its origins, as each of these young goat’s milk rounds is wrapped in a velvety, heart-shaped leaf from the local (and eponymous) Hoja Santa plant. The leaf imparts subtle notes of sassafras, anise, mint, and black pepper to this soft, fresh chèvre.
The Hoja Santas are dried and flipped, then left until a few spots of perfectly edible mold grow on the rind. These are aged for much longer than most fresh goat cheeses. This guarantees that the leaf has lost its chewiness and has infused the white paste with a light grassy note. Approximately 5 oz.

Suggested Pairing:
Sancerre, Beer, Pernod!

AFFIDELICE:
(ah-FEE-duh-lees)
FRANCE (Burgundy)/Cow

A washed-rind cow’s milk cheese from the Burgundy region of France; it is very similar to Epoisses, which is made is actually made by the same creamery. Its name, Affidelice, comes from the marriage of two words: affiné (ripe) and delice (delight). Affidelice is soft, with a moist, terracotta-colored rind, and is contained in a small, wooden box.
The maturation process is continued at Artisanal Premium Cheese Center in New York, where they wash the Affidelice with Chablis. The resulting cheese has a soft, pungent, spoonable paste with a satiny texture.

Suggested Pairing:
Chardonnay, especially Chablis;  Champagne, Riesling

HUDSON VALLEY CAMEMBERT:
USA (Vermont)/Cow

The award-winning Old Chatham Shepherding Company’s Hudson Valley Camembert is a creamy, soft-ripened cheese made from the milk of Old Chatham’s herd of East Fresian sheep combined with hormone-free cow’s milk from a neighbor’s farm.
The result is meltingly smooth and buttery, with the texture of a triple-crème, it has layers of flavor and nuance. Approximately 5.33 oz.

Suggested Pairing:
Champagne, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling

FLEUR DE MAQUIS:
(fluhr doo mah-KEE)
FRANCE(Corsica)/Sheep

Fleur du Maquis is semi-soft, made in Corsica from the milk of the Lacaune ewes.
Its name means “Flower of the Maquis”–maquis being the local term for the typical thickets of rough underbrush where highway robbers and guerrilla fighters used to hang out.  During production, the smallish wheels are encrusted with rosemary, fennel seeds, juniper berries, and the occasional bird’s eye chile.

Suggested Pairing:
Pinot Gris, Beaujolais, Zinfandel

MANCHEGO:
(mahn-CHEH-goh)
SPAIN/Sheep

Manchego is a famous Spanish D.O. sheep’s milk cheese, made exclusively from the milk of sheep grazing upon the plains of La Mancha–the land of Don Quixote! This artisanal Manchego is made from raw milk and aged for several months. The cheese is nutty, sweet, and tangy with a firm texture. After 12 months, the semi-firm cheese becomes tastier, saltier and excellent for grating.

Suggested Pairing:
Quince Preserves + Albarino, Grenache

TALEGGIO:
(tah-LED-joh)
ITALY/Cow

Taleggio is a semi-soft, washed-rind cheese from the Valtaleggio region in northern Italy, near Lombardy. It is characteristically aromatic, yet mild in flavor, and features tangy, meaty notes with a fruity finish. The texture of the cheese is moist-to-oozy with a very pleasant melt-in-your-mouth feel. The combination of the soft texture, pungent aroma, and buttery flavors has proven to be addictive especially when spread on fresh crusty bread.

Suggested Pairing:
Warm Baguette + Chardonnay, Nebbiolo Bianco, Nebbiolo

TERRALUNA:

TERRALUNA

UTAH/Cow

Terraluna is produced in Utah from clean raw Jersey cow milk. This firm cheese is in the cheddar family, yet it has an even deeper flavor and a longer finish than most cheddars. The award-winning Terraluna owes its superior quality to the mineral-rich soil where the cows graze, as well as to the fine cheese making skills of its producers.

Suggested Pairing:
Pinot Noir, IPA

PECORINO BALZE VOLTERANNE:
(Peh-co-REE-no DELL-eh BAHLT-zeh VOL-tehr-RAH-neh)
ITALY (Tuscany)/Sheep

A raw organic pecorino from Tuscany and is made with vegetable rennet of wild artichoke. The cheese is aged in oak barrels for 60 days, the rind covered in oak and olive wood ash. This imparts a unique green olive flavor and a long finish. This cheese is firm, toothsome and has a nutty texture.

Suggested Pairing:
Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese

COMTE:
(kom-TAY)
FRANCE (Jura)/Cow

Comté is a firm pressed cheese made from the raw milk of red and white Montbeliard cows in the Jura Mountains of France in Franche-Comté. The cheese is produced in small, cooperative dairies, known as “fruitières” which collect the milk from farms within a maximum of 15 miles radius and only produce cheese in the summer months..
Comté is the most popular DOP cheeses in France, and it is claimed that there are more than 83 distinct flavors in Comté, including mountain flowers, apricot, chocolate, butter, cream, butterscotch and grilled bread. It comes in a 1/3 pound block and is tempting to snack on like a savory candy bar!

Suggested Pairing:
Savoie, White Burgundy, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Bordeaux Blends

GORGONZOLA PICCANTE:
(gore-gon-ZOH-lah)
ITALY/Cow

Italy’s answer to Roquefort, from the region north of Milan. Its rough, reddish rind protects a tender, light yellow, blue-flecked paste that is firm, moist, and buttery. The flavor is sharp and sweet.

Suggested Pairing:
Sauternes, Vin Santo

LA PERAL:

LA PERAL

(lah peh-RAHL)

SPAIN/Cow & Sheep

A gently blued pasteurized cow and sheep milk cheese from Asturias in northern Spain. Also known as Queso Azul Asturiano, La Peral has been made by the Lopez Leon family since the 1920s. The wheels are aged for sixty days just to the point that the blue begins to develop. La Peral resembles an Italian Gorgonzola. It has a slightly crumbly texture that leads to a refreshing finish on the palate. The sheep milk component gives this firm cheese a little olive oil flavor and a pleasant pungent aroma. Rich, moist, buttery, sharp, salty…

Suggested Pairing:
Atop a Medium-rare burger + Rioja & Other Spanish Reds, Cabernet Sauvignon, Port, Amontillado

We always say that tasting is the best way to hone your palate and learn more about wine…but what about those situations where you don’t want to drink too much, have to drive home or attend a trade tasting with dozens or even hundreds of wines?  Well, you probably oughta spit.

There is, however, an art to spitting–which may seem a little unfair, in that in order to sharpen your wine skills you have to develop your spitting skills, too?!

Well, forget about fair and start developing your spitting style.  There are a few “correct” ways to spit;  some say a slow, steady stream, others say fast and furious.  I find that different methods are necessary in different settings.  While I love having a big sip and letting the wine cover every tastebud, rather than swishing it around like mouthwash, most of the time, a half oz taste is all that is safe when it has to be expectorated with precision.

British Wine Critic Jancis Robinson makes it sound downright regal.  Hers, we will call the “Royal Spit”:

“When it makes sense to spit, you should be proud rather than ashamed to do it. You may associate expectoration with rather seedy old men and pavements, but wine people have perfected the art of doing it with great style. ‘Spit with pride’ might well be the wine taster’s motto. The stylish spit is forceful, an elegant trajectory with not the merest suggestion of a dribble, aimed dead center of the spittoon.”

Royal wave optional.

While the goal here is to illuminate the reasons and methods of spitting, it should be noted that some don’t encourage spitting at all.

Teobaldo Cappellano is considered a legend and one of the last great traditionalist winemakers in Barolo. In 1983, he banished all journalists from his cellar unless they agreed to review his wines without scores.  As a result, he is not very well-known in the United States — but is held in very high esteem in the wine world.  In regard to spitting, Cappellano said, “If there is one thing that makes me crazy, it’s spitters of wine…the ones who taste a wine by rolling it around in their mouths and then they spit it out. I worked my butt off to make wine to drink, not to spit!”

I’ve heard that sentiment from many a French winemaker, too, but that philosophy can be trouble without a wooden leg,  I’m just sayin.

For more musings and demonstrations on spitting, check out these links. At least, if you do find yourself in a setting in which you need to spit, you will be prepared to do so with confidence, if not style.

The Fine art of spitting:

http://www.spinthebottleny.com/spin-the-basics/the-fine-art-of-spitting-2

Cesare Casella and Elisabeth English

The 15th annual Nantucket Wine Festival has wrapped and the clinking of glassware subsided.  It was 5 wowza days of learning and meeting while having the most fun possible.   Most folks have now boarded a plane or boat to carry them home, while we business owners are working overtime to ready ourselves for Memorial Day weekend.  Where did those 5 days go?  It was kind of a blur…

Opening night at the White Elephant was a brief, but essential 2 hour party featuring Veuve Clicquot.  People were electrified for the start of the festival and elated that the gloomy weather prognosis was wrong, wrong, wrong.  My friend Cesare (Salumeria Rosi, NYC) and I continued the evening at The Pearl, where we had plate after plate of inventive morsels (and glass after glass of Veuve rosé) dining at the bar.  Like Cinderella, I was just barely home by midnight.

Farmstead cheese plate

Thursday began with a cheese course for breakfast and 6 glasses of wine.  Perhaps you would call it brunch, in that it was 10am, but breakfast sounds more outrageous and it was my first meal of the day.

I’m all for cheese for breakfast, anyway, but these were special cheeses, selected by Matt Jennings of Farmstead in Providence and Ihsan Gurdal of Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge and NYC.  It was billed as an Old World-New World “smackdown”, with Matt representing New World American farmstead cheese.  It was amazing how they each had selected, without prior consultation, plates of contrasting, but complimentary cheeses.  Our table loosely agreed that it was a tie for the most part, but for me, the New World Ascutney Mtn. raw cow’s milk  from Cobb Hill Farm commune in Vermont–golden yellow and rich, caramelized flavors–gave Matt the victory.

I followed my cheese & wine breakfast with a champagne lunch.  A rock star champagne lunch, actually, meaning the cuisine of Seth Raynor (Pearl, Boarding House, Corazon del Mar) paired with the champagnes of Veuve Clicquot in an exquisite outdoor setting.  It was the 2nd annual “Nantucket Women of Wine luncheon” hosted by Veuve, and Mother Nature must have been in full favor of the event.  It was a lovely opportunity to connect with other businesswomen from the Nantucket community and luxuriate in  food and wine splendor–French Kiss oysters poached in Grande Dame, Grande Dame-braised lobster and toasted vermicelli…!  Poor Dominique Demarville (Chef de Cave)–he arrived late, newly initiated to the troubles of fog, airlines and island transportation.

Of course, one does not ideally follow these two events by going to work for the rest of the day, but alas, duty calls.  It was a busy afternoon of visits and sales and before I knew it, it was time to pour at the Comte Senard table at the Nantucket Wine Festival Gala.  If I was to be behind one table and taste wines of only one winery for the entire evening, this was where I wanted to be.  One, because Beatrice Senard is so fabulous and chic, and two, because the wines were possibly the best of the night.  Beatrice greeted me with a welcome sip of Bourgogne Blanc and from there, we progressed to the Premier Cru Les Valozieres, and TROIS GRAND CRU….2009 Clos des Meix, 2007 Les Bressandes, 2006 Les Paulands.  What a pleasure!

I did manage to sneak a taste of Alex Gambal’s 2009 Puligny Montrachet from winemaker Fabrice Laronze en route to our table and also had a night cap of Tim Mondavis 2008 Continuum while noshing on porchetta from Salumeria Rosi.  From there, Mark and I joined Cesare and Lia Tolaini-Banville of Tolaini Estates for a late bite at Lola 41, before continuing on to the obligatory bottle of Veuve rosé at, where else, The Pearl.  I forfeited the Coach in lieu of the Pumpkin, and stopped by the Club Car for a midnight tune at the piano on the way home.

Dominique & Cesare

Nevertheless, Friday began at 5am, when my feline alarm clock encouraged me to rise.  It was a big day and there were preparations to be made;  we had two major wine events scheduled at currentVintage.  First off, Lia Tolaini-Banville was pouring Terlano “Vorberg” Pinot Bianco plus two Tuscan reds and Cesare was hand-carving 30-month cured prosciutto paired with Petticoat Row Bakery baguettes.  The prosciutto melted in your mouth like none other and the bread was perfectly chewy and delicious.  Next was our Veuve Clicquot champagne tasting and bottle signing with Dominique.  We held the same event last year and all who attended were euphoric over meeting the gentile winemaker and sampling the beautiful wines from his hands in such an intimate setting.  It was one giant photo op, as we took group pictures with Dominique and a 1931 Veuve yellow taxi.  That was last year–this year was a mob scene.  There was hardly time to pop the Grande Dame as festival goers and winemakers packed the house.  It was the largest turnout for a retail store of our size ever, according to Veuve, a testament to Dominique’s popularity and the majesty of Veuve Clicquot.

What next?  Oh, yes–it was opening night at Ventuno, the new Italian restaurant from the team behind Straight Wharf restaurant and Provisions.  The opening was hotly anticipated as it was in the former location of beloved island institution, 21 Federal.  Although the end of the 21 era provoked nostalgia, and even tears, the new reign offers excitement and imagination in its menu and wine list, both welcome on the Nantucket culinary scene.  It was a who’s who table, organized by Sarah Powers of Kobrand, including Mike Trujillo, winemaker of Sequoia Grove (and a few other prestigious properties), and Chris Silva, the charismatic, fun-loving CEO of St. Francis Winery.  Cesare guided us through the offerings, both food and wine, and we proceeded to order almost everything on the menu, sometimes twice.  Highlights from the intriguing and affordable wine list included the lovely Ceretti Arneis and dry, but layered GrosJean Freres Petite Arvine.  The pasta star of the table was most definitely braised rabbit strozzapretti, although I loved my whole wheat pasta with ramps, morels and ricotta, as well.  Teeth brushed and tucked in just before the clock struck 12.

Joel Gott at cV

Saturday–let the Grand Tasting begin!  currentVintage had a new location this year, sandwiched between Cain and Frog’s Leap in the cooking demo tent.  We showed our cV Signature RRV/Sonoma wines alongside vintage grape-themed jewelry from the 1930s-70s, both to unanimous (as much as we could hear) praise.  Between the Grand Tasting sessions, we hosted Joel Gott for a tasting & bottle signing of some of his favorite wines.  He threw in a fashion show, modeling western shirts and departing with a new addition to his wardrobe.

Joel Gott in his new old shirt

Saturday night, I attended a wine tasting party, featuring Bodega Chacra, Sequoia Grove and St. Francis paired with Pi Pizza and Pappardelle Bolognese from the Pasta Goddess.  Given the preceding 72 hours, I thought almost nothing could dazzle me, but the Sequoia Grove chard, St Francis VV Zin and trio of Bodega Chacra Patagonia Pinots totally wowed.  So did the charming Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, founder of Bodega Chacra and member of the Tuscan family that brought us Sassicaia.  His totally cool vibe and euro-style made it even more of a surprise that he’s crafting exceptional single-vineyard Pinot Noir in the hinterlands of Patagonia from 55-80 year old vines…we might have to go and visit.

The only thing that got me through Sunday was knowing that the next day was Monday.  We had another awesome day at the Grand Tasting and I got around to visit some old friends and savor some new wines, as well.  The grand tasting segued into a Sinskey Family BBQ at the Boarding House, where Rob Sinskey poured his Abraxas and POV and Maria grilled duck sliders.  And just to gild the lily, there was a NWF staff party that night at the Lombardi barn, featuring a veritable feast of roasts and pastas and 200 or so leftover bottles of wine.  I joined briefly to toast the team and sup with Ray Coursen of Elyse, and then, it was homeward to savor it all.

In the vineyard with Tim Mondavi, daughter Carissa, and Bayla of Continuum

GUESS WHO’S COMING TO THE NANTUCKET WINE FESTIVAL 2011?!

Oh, how we love the Nantucket Wine Festival…the annual ritual of welcoming old friends and making new ones—meaning, of course, people AND wines.  We’ve made many friends at the NWF through the years, and brought other friends to the event, both luminaries and patrons.  This January, Mark and I had the distinct honor of meeting Tim Mondavi and luring him to be the Nantucket Wine Festival Luminary of the Year.   His legacy as the winemaker for Robert Mondavi is laudable as is his impressive new label, Continuum Estate, and its commitment to excellence in winemaking.  Continuum makes “a single red wine produced with clarity of focus at the highest quality level”, a blend of varieties from the cabernet family, and aspires to the level of a first growth Bordeaux.

We have in stock or can order wines from any of these producers, including Continuum Estate.  Our selection is all the more compelling due to the inclusion of  these esteemed makers.  Offered here are some photos of the many friends of currentVintage–on both our turf and theirs.

Lunch with Tim and Carissa Mondavi

Alex Gambal in Beaune

Sean Larkin in currentVintage

Jack Larkin of Jack Larkin in cV

with Don & Joanne of Shibumi Knoll

John Arns and Sandy Belcher in currentVintage

with Ray Coursen at Elyse

Sonoma Coast lunch with David Hirsch

Maria and Rob Sinskey

Tyler Thomas, Donelan winemaker, at Cyrus

Michael & Fiona Ragg of Mischief & Mayhem at cV

Michel Anglada of Anglada-Deleger, in Beaune

Domaine Comte Senard in Aloxe-Corton

with Kristen at Newton Vineyard

Hourglass

Seminar with Elton Sloane of Robert Craig Winery

Andy Peay pouring for me and Ziggy the Wine Gal

Magnificent Palmaz winery

Big Bottles at Miner Family

Cesare Casella, Chef-Owner Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto, NYC

*Napa*Sonoma*San Francisco*Carmel*Santa Barbara*Ventura*Pismo Beach*Santa Monica*Palm Springs*LA*Boston*New York* *Montreal*Greenville*Charlotte*Asheville…

60+ Days on the fly!

vintage finds, wine discoveries, dining, family, friends, fun

Only one month to go in 2010, but the year is already overflowing with wonderful times, great adventures, fabulous memories.  The last eleven months have been filled with annual traditions (Daffodil Day, Nantucket Wine and Film Festivals) as well as travel, friends and new experiences.

cV continued to get a lot of press and was featured in a gorgeous 6-page spread in Cape Cod Life.  There were numerous trips…California, NYC, St John, France…and we launched our signature cV wines, including our 2008 currentVintage “Boschetti Vineyard” Pinot Noir.  There were wine tastings, photo shoots, and VIPs–the store practically  pulsated with energy and inspiration!

Most importantly:  I got engaged (!), then, currentVintage had its first store engagement (he proposed to her in cV!) and, our little Rosie (*star employee*) got married.

Here’s a look at a few highlights…

Our first proposal at cV!

She said "I do"! Congrats Brendan & Kate!

Rosie & Ivan got married!

Getting engaged at the Wauwinet...

...on our 8th anniversary!

11th Annual Lingerie Fishing Tournament

Wendy Schmidt & Co at Petticoat Row

Dominique Demarville of VCP!

Content at Caneel Bay

Stylist Julie Biondi (ctr) & friends

cV models in Cape Cod Life

MLK Jr Day at Glide in San Fran

B-52s Kate Pierson in cV

modeling Cheryl Fudge (who just opened a store in Santa Monica)

Actor Sarah Fraunfelder modeling for cV

Burgundy:)

Many a Grand Cru...

with LA Lifestyle Chef & "Food to Flowers" Author, Lulu Powers

Meursault & Margaux

NFF Party with Kim Corkran of Cape Air, Kate Brosnan & Tom Scott of Plum TV, Caterer Susan Warner

going to The Bazaar in LA, Pre-Grammys

La Superica in Santa Barbara

with Dan Kosta of Kosta Browne

cV Signature Wines launch at Nantucket Wine Fest

Michael Ragg of Mischief & Mayhem, Burgundy

Daffodil Day

at The Vanderbilt in Newport

Brian (not the best dresser) Loring & John Albans

“Remember, happiness doesn’t depend upon who you are or what you have, it depends solely upon what you drink!”—Brian Loring

“There are times when Brian Loring finds himself racing to make ends meet, juggling work as a software engineer with a career as an aspiring winemaker.”–Wine Spectator, 2003

That was then, when he still had a Software Engineer day job and hoped to someday make 3000 case of wine a year.  Now, 49 yr-old Brian Loring is one of the top Pinot-makers in the USA, famous for his Loring Wine Company label of single-vineyard Pinots and a consulting winemaker for boutique properties Pali, Twin Oaks, Golden’s, et al.  His production has grown to over 7000 cases—still tiny by most standards—but bigger than where he started and very big on quality and reputation.

According to Brian Loring, Siduri set the model for small production single-vineyard pinots, working with growers and buying by the acre.  Adventuresome winemakers, such as Brian Loring, followed suit, experimenting in defining distinctly California Pinot Noir.  A bigger, bolder pinot style was pioneering, but by 2004, they had all approached the upper boundary of ‘bigness’ and decided to dial it back to where each stylistically wanted to be, rather than continuing to test the limits or purely focusing on being different.

What does it mean to be a California pinot versus a French one?  Loring says, “Embrace your longer hangtime”.  Perhaps they will not have the same longevity as their French counterparts, but Loring believes that his Pinots can have complexity and simultaneously be appreciable at an early age.

For all of I’ve read about Brian Loring, he sure seems like a nice guy.  He is also extremely smart, a talented winemaker and a very bad dresser.  We present Brian Loring, in his own words:

WHY I MAKE PINOT NOIR

My name is Brian Loring and my obsession is Pinot Noir. OK, I’m also pretty crazy about Champagne, but that’s another story. While in college, I worked at a wine shop in Hollywood (Victor’s), where one of the owners was a Burgundy fanatic. So, my very first experiences with Pinot Noir were from producers like Domaine Dujac, Henri Jayer, and DRC. Needless to say, I found subsequent tasting safaris into the domestic Pinot Noir jungle less than satisfying. It wasn’t until I literally stumbled into Calera (I tripped over a case of their wine in the store room) that I found a California Pinot Noir that I could love. But it would be quite a while before I found someone else that lived up to the standard that Josh Jensen had established. I eventually came to understand and enjoy Pinots from Williams Selyem, Chalone, and Sanford, but I really got excited about California Pinot Noir when I met Norm Beko from Cottonwood Canyon at an Orange County Wine Society tasting.

I made about 3 trips around the booths at the tasting without finding a single good Pinot Noir. So, being the open minded person that I am (remember I passed him up 3 times), I stopped at the Cottonwood booth. I was BLOWN away by Norman’s 1990 Santa Maria Pinot Noir. After a few years of attending every Cottonwood event and asking Norm 10,000 questions about winemaking, he offered to let come learn the process during the ‘97 crush. I checked sugar levels, picked, crushed, punched down, pressed, filled barrels, and generally moved a bunch of stuff around with fork lifts and pallet jacks! It was the time of my life… I was totally hooked. And even though I hadn’t planned it, I ended up making two barrels of Pinot Noir. That was the start of the Loring Wine Company. What had started out as a dream 15 years earlier was now a reality – I was a winemaker!

HOW I MAKE PINOT NOIR

My philosophy on making wine is that the fruit is EVERYTHING. What happens in the vineyard determines the quality of the wine – I can’t make it better – I can only screw it up! That’s why I’m extremely picky when choosing vineyards to buy grapes from. Not only am I looking for the right soil, micro-climate, and clones, I’m also looking for a grower with the same passion and dedication to producing great wine that I have. In other words, a total Pinot Freak! My part in the vineyard equation is to throw heaping piles of money at the vineyard owners (so that they can limit yields and still make a profit) and then stay out of the way! Since most, if not all of the growers keep some fruit to make their own wine, I tell them to farm my acre(s) the same way they do theirs – since they’ll obviously be doing whatever is necessary to get the best possible fruit. One of the most important decisions made in the vineyard is when to pick. Some people go by the numbers (brix, pH, TA, etc) and some go by taste. Once again, I trust the decision to the vineyard people. The day they pick the fruit for their wine is the day I’m there with a truck to pick mine. Given this approach, the wine that I produce is as much a reflection of the vineyard owner as it is of my winemaking skills. I figure that I’m extending the concept of terroir a bit to include the vineyard owner/manager… but it seems to make sense to me. The added benefit is that I’ll be producing a wide variety of Pinots. It’d be boring if everything I made tasted the same.

ABOUT THE NAME

Sounds pretty straight forward, last name Loring, therefore Loring Wine Company. Ahhh, but what about the “Wine Company” part? That is an hommage to Josh Jensen at Calera… which is actually Calera Wine Company. Since he was the guy who showed me that great Pinot Noir could be made in California, I decided to name my winery Loring Wine Company to “honor” him. Hopefully, Josh sees it for what it is and doesn’t want to sue me for trademark infringement!

Brian goes on to thanks the folks at Cottonwood Canyon and Adam Lee of Siduri on his website, AS WELL AS recommend dozens and dozens of his favorite California Pinot-producers and Champagne houses.  What a nice guy.

The thoughtful and distinctive Loring Wine Company labels…

2005 LWC Clos Pepe Vineyard

Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills

800 Cases

This photo shows an end-post for one of our rows. The PN-667 tells you it’s a row of Pinot Noir 667 clone. 101-14 is the rootstock. And it’s row number 8. Not many vineyards list this type of detail on the end-posts.

2005 LWC Garys’ Vineyard

Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands

825 cases

Good shot showing the rocky soil showing through under the vines. Santa Lucia Highlands