I dream of Lilly.  Particularly the Lilly of the 1960s photos by Slim Aarons. They conjure a life of leisure I will never know—and a mood/attitude/way of life that no longer exists…

“Once upon a time, life was not better. It was different. Once upon a time everything was optimism, because nothing was bad for you.”

If you watch Mad Men, this statement by William Norwich makes perfect sense.  The early 1960s were heady times–innovations in business, fashion, culture and lifestyle were occurring exponentially and the nation embraced modernity with open arms, with no time to consider the consequences.

As simple a garment as the ’shift’ dress actually reflected a big shift in womens’ attitudes!  No more “foundations”, ie no more girdle.  The easy, casual shape represented a relaxation of dress standards–even among the upper class, who were early to adopt, much as the flappers did in the 1920s.

These simple shapes were executed brilliantly by Lilly Pulitzer, a free-spirited socialite who quickly went from juice-making to dress-making.

The Lilly Story

“The Lilly” label became the first lifestyle brand–the original resort wear for the burgeoning leisure class. Her prolific original fabric and dress designs (not found at Marshall’s) are still cherished today.  Lilly Pulitzer closed her business in 1984.  The presently ubiquitous “Lilly Pulitzer” label and “In the Pink” stores are produced by a new company formed in 1993, after purchasing the name.

Yes, once upon a time, life was different…

Visit our collection of Original Lilly designs for men & Women at currentVintage, 4 Easy St, Nantucket.

Lilly Pulitzer

Lilly Pulitzer (right)/Slim Aarons-Getty Imges

April 1968: Mr and Mrs Donald Lease with their Rolls Royce and two pet dogs outside their home in Palm Beach, Florida. (Slim Aarons/Getty Images)

Kelly modeling Victor Costa at currentVintage

Born in Texas in 1935, Victor Costa grew up enthralled by the glamour of Hollywood and intent on working in fashion. He sold sketches to Oleg Cassini and Ciel Chapman before joining the Suzy Perette label in 1965, where his photographic memory was dispatched to the Paris runways.  It was during his eight years at Suzy that he became known as “The Copy-Cat King” for his meticulous line for line copies of European couture.  This was back when copy-ing was actually considered a good thing—couture was skillfully replicated for the masses, but in a respectful, high-quality way.  Not just made to look similarly, couture copies were made to endure, and Seventh Ave designers, such as Hattie Carnegie and Norman Norell, were celebrated for their quality imitations.

Victor Costa dress details

Costa went on to form his own label, taking the design secrets he learned and interpreting them into fabulous, wearable pieces that are highly collectible today.  According to Costa, “A woman has to walk into a store, and [a dress] has to speak to her. It has to say ‘buy me’ or ‘try me on.’ It has to have color, it has to have shape, it has to have design secrets built into it that make her body look [outstanding]. You have to do lines that are flattering.”  And they did—the colors!  The fabrics!  The elegance!  The cut!  The pieces are at once distinctive, yet classic.

ABS does Jason Wu

The “dress has to say ‘buy me’” philosophy may be shared by today’s reigning “Copy King”, Allen Schwartz of ABS, whose rapid, literal imitations infuriate modern designers.  In fact, “copy-ing” designer fashions is a broiling controversy;  no sooner are the runway shows or red carpet over, stores such as H&M and Zara are rolling out the cheaply-made knock-offs at a fraction of the cost.  Designers such as Diane von Furstenberg and Jason Wu (whose Michelle Obama Inaugural Gown was promptly replicated for prom-wear) have lobbied Congress for copyright protection.  Currently, clothing design, no matter how artistic, is not protected by intellectual property law, as are books, music, etc.  Trademarks are obviously protected (eg the Lacoste croc), but not the designs themselves.  While it may be maddening—and costly—for modern designers to see their works poorly constructed in bad fabric on the Forever 21 rack, there will always be demand.

Kelly in Victor Costa at cV

Rosie in Victor Costa at cV

Victor Costa closed his company in 1995, but still designs bridal and evening wear today.  Fortunately, his prolific works of the 1960s-80s have longevity similar to their couture inspiration.  They are expertly constructed and flattering, as promised.  Look for the vintage Victor Costa label(s)—they are Pre-disposable fashion.

Rosie in Victor Costa at currentVintage

Bordeaux Rack

BORDEAUX 2009.

There has been huge Buzz and tremendous press since last August, but we’ve all been wondering, Is all the hype true?  Now, the jury is out and the news is good—Yes;  2009 is a banner vintage.  It’s too early to tell if it’s a vintage of a lifetime, but the comparisons to great years such as 2005 and 1947 mean that the wines will be excellent and beyond.  The good news is that the 2009 Bordeaux will be of higher quality at every price point;  the bad news is, the prices will be high!  If you are a Bordeaux aficionado–or just like a good Cab or Merlot–it is of particular importance this year to lock in ‘Premier Tranche’ or ‘first slice’ pricing—because prices will only go up from there! 

currentVintage is pleased to offer Bordeaux Futures for the spectacular 2009 vintage of each region.  These are very attractive pre-arrival prices that we are able to provide through Direct Import.  Bordeaux wines typically go up in value at least 25 percent and sometimes double in price between en primeur and bottle releases.  Let’s talk now about getting your order in at substantial savings over future shelf price.

Here are a few of our available wines.  Come by currentVintage at 4 Easy St on Nantucket or E-mail currentVintage@currentVintage.com for a Vintage Report and full price list.  Delivery is available in NY, NJ, CT, RI, MA plus most of New England.

Château de Chambrun 2009 – Lalande-de-Pomerol

Wine Spectator: (90-93 Points) Wine Advocate (Robert Parker): (90-92 Points)

“Fabulous aromas of crushed berry and blackberry, with hints of mineral and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, with soft, silky tannins and a clean, fresh finish. The is the third year of Silvio Denz’s ownership of the estate, and it gets better and better. 90 percent Merlot and 10 percent Cabernet Franc.” (James Suckling, Web Only – 2010)

$37/bottle

Château Figeac 2009 – St.-Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé

Wine Spectator: (97-100 Points)

“Really fabulous on the nose, with sweet milk chocolate, flowers, currant and plum. Full-bodied, with incredible length. The tannins are so silky, but they are warm and cuddly. You just want to hug it. Powerful but so attractive. The blend is one third each of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.” (James Suckling, Web Only – 2010)

$310/bottle

Château Pontet Canet 2009 – Pauillac Cru Classé

Wine Advocate (Robert Parker): (97-100 Points), Wine Spectator: (95-98 Points)

“It’s no surprise that proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a possibly perfect 2009. He’s been on a roll since 1994, and no other producer has done more work in the vineyard than Tesseron, who has moved to 100% bio-dynamic farming, reduced yields drastically, and instituted a draconian selection process. This vineyard, which sits on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, has produced a 2009 of extraordinary intensity and purity. It is outrageously concentrated, with silky tannin (the sweetest I have ever tasted in a Pontet-Canet as well as the highest measured), an opaque purple color, and copious notes of graphite, cassis, licorice, and subtle smoke and forest floor. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with striking purity and definition, it is a wine of colossal weight as well as elegance (in itself a poster boy for this paradox in 2009). This brilliant Pauillac requires a decade of cellaring despite its voluptuous texture. It should evolve for 50-75 years. (Tasted four times.)” (Robert Parker, Wine Advocate # 188, April 2010)

$245/bottle

Château Pape Clément 2009 – Grand Cru Classé de Graves, Pessac Leognan

Wine Advocate (Robert Parker): (95-97+ Points), Wine Spectator: (94-97 Points)

“A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2009 Pape Clement is not as dense or provocative as the 2005, but it is a worthy competitor. Tighter and more muscular than the 2005, the 2009 reveals an opaque purple color along with notes of graphite, blueberries, and blackberries, stunning richness, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and tremendous length and intensity. Some patience will be required, and I do not believe this effort will achieve the near perfection of the 2005, but it is another winner in this extraordinary vintage. Yields were 43 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine finished around 13.5% alcohol. (Tasted four times.)

Historically one of the oldest vineyards in Bordeaux (having once been owned by Pope Clement, who gets more credit for what he did in Chateauneuf du Pape than in Graves), this 700-year old Pessac vineyard has turned out another profound wine under the administration of proprietor Bernard Magrez.” (Robert Parker, Wine Advocate # 188, April 2010)

$175/bottle

MAUVAIS GARÇON Bordeaux

Wine Spectator: (90-93 Points)

Intense coffee bean, toasted bread and concentrated ripe fruit. Full-bodied, with soft and velvety tannins and a medium finish. A juicy wine in a flashy style. This is now called Mauvais Garçon, which means “bad boy” in French. —James Suckling

$22/bottle

Lulu & Elisabeth (with an S) wearing Vintage Lilly at currentVintage on Nantucket

Lulu in FOOD TO FLOWERS wearing Vintage Lilly from currentVintage!

How wonderful it was to take the collective magic carpet ride that is Lulu & Co.  I am speaking both specifically about the super fun book signing we hosted featuring Lulu’s new book, FOOD to FLOWERS, at currentVintage, and what it’s like to be around the Powers girls, in general.  Wherever Lulu goes, there is a flurry of  energy, ideas and yes, magic.  Her particular combo of culinary chemistry and personal charisma has taken her from apprentice in the kitchen of Sarah Leah Chase on Nantucket to titillating the tastebuds of Madonna, Will & Jada Pinkett Smith, Arianna Huffington and Bill Clinton in LA.  In addition to great talent and entertaining savvy, Lulu has excellent taste and style, as evidenced by her preference for vintage clothing and the fabulous pieces that she has collected from currentVintage.

Lulu in Allure Magazine wearing currentVintage

“If a dinner party is like a relationship, then a cocktail party is like a fling–all the fun and none of the commitment.”–Lulu Powers in  Food to Flowers

The book is a lovely lesson in simple but thoughtful and chic entertaining–who couldn’t use a lesson in that?–beautifully photographed by Lulu’s husband, Stephen Danelian.  Below are a couple of the simply delightful recipes included in Food to Flowers.  To purchase the book, visit currentVintage (for a signed copy), your local bookstore or http://www.lulupowers.com

EDAMAME BRUSCHETTA

Edamame:
2½ cups, plus ½ cup shelled edamame, at room temperature
1 cup fresh mint leaves
½ cup fresh parsley leaves
salt and pepper
½ cup olive oil

In food processor, blend 2½ cups edamame, mint, parsley, salt and pepper to taste until smooth. Add oil and remaining ½ cup edamame, and blend until mixture is slightly chunky.

To Serve:
2 packages rice crackers, about 30 crackers
4 strips bacon, cooked until crispy and broken into small pieces
½ cup finely grated Gruyère cheese

Place dollop of edamame mixture on rice crackers. Top with bacon and garnish with Gruyère.

MILLION DOLLAR BARS

“Taste just one of these treats and you’ll understand the name. My mom’s English friend, Mrs. Kennedy, introduced the Powers clan to Million-Dollar Bars. She wouldn’t part with the recipe, so my sister Sarah and I came up with one ourselves. The problem is that you can’t eat just one.”–Lulu

1½ cups all-purpose flour

½ cup sugar

¾ pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter

(1 stick at room temperature & 2 sticks chilled and cut into pieces)

½ cup packed brown sugar

Two 14-ounce cans unsweetened condensed milk

¼ cup heavy cream

12 ounces semisweet chocolate chips

Makes 35 bars

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

2. Sift the flour into the bowl of a food processor. Add the sugar and the chilled butter and pulse until the mixture resembles crumbs.

3. Press the mixture into a 9 x 13-inch pan sprayed lightly with nonstick cooking spray and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until light golden. Let cool in the pan.

4. In a medium saucepan, melt the brown sugar and the remaining stick of butter. Add the condensed milk and stir constantly over medium-high heat until the mixture thickens slightly and becomes light golden in color, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the caramel from the heat and pour evenly over the cooled cookie mixture. Let cool slightly.

5. In the meantime, melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pot of simmering water and gradually whisk in the heavy cream until smooth.

6. Pour the melted chocolate mixture over the caramel and spread it evenly with a small offset spatula or by tapping the bottom of the pan on a hard surface.

7. Cool the bars in the refrigerator until set and cut into squares. If the chocolate hardens, let the bars stand for at least 1 hour at room temperature before cutting. They will keep for 1 week on the counter and 2 weeks in the freezer.

Brian (not the best dresser) Loring & John Albans

“Remember, happiness doesn’t depend upon who you are or what you have, it depends solely upon what you drink!”—Brian Loring

“There are times when Brian Loring finds himself racing to make ends meet, juggling work as a software engineer with a career as an aspiring winemaker.”–Wine Spectator, 2003

That was then, when he still had a Software Engineer day job and hoped to someday make 3000 case of wine a year.  Now, 49 yr-old Brian Loring is one of the top Pinot-makers in the USA, famous for his Loring Wine Company label of single-vineyard Pinots and a consulting winemaker for boutique properties Pali, Twin Oaks, Golden’s, et al.  His production has grown to over 7000 cases—still tiny by most standards—but bigger than where he started and very big on quality and reputation.

According to Brian Loring, Siduri set the model for small production single-vineyard pinots, working with growers and buying by the acre.  Adventuresome winemakers, such as Brian Loring, followed suit, experimenting in defining distinctly California Pinot Noir.  A bigger, bolder pinot style was pioneering, but by 2004, they had all approached the upper boundary of ‘bigness’ and decided to dial it back to where each stylistically wanted to be, rather than continuing to test the limits or purely focusing on being different.

What does it mean to be a California pinot versus a French one?  Loring says, “Embrace your longer hangtime”.  Perhaps they will not have the same longevity as their French counterparts, but Loring believes that his Pinots can have complexity and simultaneously be appreciable at an early age.

For all of I’ve read about Brian Loring, he sure seems like a nice guy.  He is also extremely smart, a talented winemaker and a very bad dresser.  We present Brian Loring, in his own words:

WHY I MAKE PINOT NOIR

My name is Brian Loring and my obsession is Pinot Noir. OK, I’m also pretty crazy about Champagne, but that’s another story. While in college, I worked at a wine shop in Hollywood (Victor’s), where one of the owners was a Burgundy fanatic. So, my very first experiences with Pinot Noir were from producers like Domaine Dujac, Henri Jayer, and DRC. Needless to say, I found subsequent tasting safaris into the domestic Pinot Noir jungle less than satisfying. It wasn’t until I literally stumbled into Calera (I tripped over a case of their wine in the store room) that I found a California Pinot Noir that I could love. But it would be quite a while before I found someone else that lived up to the standard that Josh Jensen had established. I eventually came to understand and enjoy Pinots from Williams Selyem, Chalone, and Sanford, but I really got excited about California Pinot Noir when I met Norm Beko from Cottonwood Canyon at an Orange County Wine Society tasting.

I made about 3 trips around the booths at the tasting without finding a single good Pinot Noir. So, being the open minded person that I am (remember I passed him up 3 times), I stopped at the Cottonwood booth. I was BLOWN away by Norman’s 1990 Santa Maria Pinot Noir. After a few years of attending every Cottonwood event and asking Norm 10,000 questions about winemaking, he offered to let come learn the process during the ‘97 crush. I checked sugar levels, picked, crushed, punched down, pressed, filled barrels, and generally moved a bunch of stuff around with fork lifts and pallet jacks! It was the time of my life… I was totally hooked. And even though I hadn’t planned it, I ended up making two barrels of Pinot Noir. That was the start of the Loring Wine Company. What had started out as a dream 15 years earlier was now a reality – I was a winemaker!

HOW I MAKE PINOT NOIR

My philosophy on making wine is that the fruit is EVERYTHING. What happens in the vineyard determines the quality of the wine – I can’t make it better – I can only screw it up! That’s why I’m extremely picky when choosing vineyards to buy grapes from. Not only am I looking for the right soil, micro-climate, and clones, I’m also looking for a grower with the same passion and dedication to producing great wine that I have. In other words, a total Pinot Freak! My part in the vineyard equation is to throw heaping piles of money at the vineyard owners (so that they can limit yields and still make a profit) and then stay out of the way! Since most, if not all of the growers keep some fruit to make their own wine, I tell them to farm my acre(s) the same way they do theirs – since they’ll obviously be doing whatever is necessary to get the best possible fruit. One of the most important decisions made in the vineyard is when to pick. Some people go by the numbers (brix, pH, TA, etc) and some go by taste. Once again, I trust the decision to the vineyard people. The day they pick the fruit for their wine is the day I’m there with a truck to pick mine. Given this approach, the wine that I produce is as much a reflection of the vineyard owner as it is of my winemaking skills. I figure that I’m extending the concept of terroir a bit to include the vineyard owner/manager… but it seems to make sense to me. The added benefit is that I’ll be producing a wide variety of Pinots. It’d be boring if everything I made tasted the same.

ABOUT THE NAME

Sounds pretty straight forward, last name Loring, therefore Loring Wine Company. Ahhh, but what about the “Wine Company” part? That is an hommage to Josh Jensen at Calera… which is actually Calera Wine Company. Since he was the guy who showed me that great Pinot Noir could be made in California, I decided to name my winery Loring Wine Company to “honor” him. Hopefully, Josh sees it for what it is and doesn’t want to sue me for trademark infringement!

Brian goes on to thanks the folks at Cottonwood Canyon and Adam Lee of Siduri on his website, AS WELL AS recommend dozens and dozens of his favorite California Pinot-producers and Champagne houses.  What a nice guy.

The thoughtful and distinctive Loring Wine Company labels…

2005 LWC Clos Pepe Vineyard

Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills

800 Cases

This photo shows an end-post for one of our rows. The PN-667 tells you it’s a row of Pinot Noir 667 clone. 101-14 is the rootstock. And it’s row number 8. Not many vineyards list this type of detail on the end-posts.

2005 LWC Garys’ Vineyard

Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands

825 cases

Good shot showing the rocky soil showing through under the vines. Santa Lucia Highlands

"Between Two Ferns" sketch with Brian Wiliiams (!) and Zach Galifianakis

NFF Comedy Roundtable w/ Ben Stiller, Sarah Silverman, Andy Stamberg, Zach G & Brian Williams

The Nantucket Film Festival celebrated it’s 15^th birthday this year.  Wow.  15.  I say wow, NOT just because I was a Co-Producer of a Festival film, but because A.  I was at Opening Night in 1996 (and have been ever since) and B.  Because it was the Best Ever!

From the Opening night film, The Extra Man, to the unbelievably fascinating docs on Bill Cunningham and Ron Galella to the Brian Williams monologue at the Screenwriter’s Tribute to Chris Matthews’ interview with Barry Levinson, it was amazing.  I am still running into like-minded Film enthusiasts on the street, exclaiming how extraordinary one film or another was this past week…Nevermind the thrill of seeing my name on the big screen in a producing credit for Mister Rogers & Me!  (When independent film makers need cash, those credits can go pretty cheap.)

My name, Elisabeth English (10th from top), on the silver screen at Mister Rogers

Chris and Ben Wagner, Creators of "Mister Rogers & Me", with Elisabeth English, "Producer"

Truthfully, I regularly think the festival is ‘the best ever’.  Losing Chase was the 1996 inaugural film and also Kevin Bacon’s directorial debut.  I was so enthused by the experience that I returned to Provisions, my sandwich shop on Straight Wharf, and re-named our BLT as “Kevin Bacon, Lettuce & Tomato” on the blackboard, provoking confusion and the occasional smile for years to come.

There have been many inspiring opening films (14, to be exact), including “The Full Monty”, “American Splendor” and “Trans-Siberian”, but it is the rest of the festival slate that delights me most.  There are always quiet gems that may never see the green light of distribution and the only opportunity to see them (for me) rests with the fest.  And so, I venture forth with the zeal of an ingénue, in an effort to take in the best the fest has to offer…

“Morning Coffee with a Writer”, film, work, film, snack, film, change of outfit, Evening Event (Party/Storytelling/Tribute), After-Party…popping my Wellness Formula vitamins and ignoring my employees’ pleas for communication day after day.

NFF "Morning Coffee with a Writer" series

Here are some of the highlights…

“Literally, you just turn on your camera and beautiful stuff gets inside  it”—Lynn True on filming Summer Pasture in remote Eastern-Tibet

‘Deep & simple is better than shallow & complex any day’—Fred Rogers (as told to Benjamin Wagner, co-creator of Mister Rogers & Me)

“We worked out the licensing last night.”—Benjamin Wagner re the process of trust and determination in making Mister Rogers & Me.

Q:  “How will the Lady Gaga generation receive the message of Mr. Rogers?”—audience member at “Morning Coffee”
A.  “Twinkies have their short-term value, but in the end everyone needs a  slice of whole wheat.”—Benjamin Wagner, Mister Rogers & Me

“I was trying to capture the beauty/horror/absurdity of family.”—Festival honoree Michael Arndt on the writing of Little Miss Sunshine

“Families are inherently funny in that you have a group of people with nothing in common except the fact they are related.”– Michael Arndt on the writing of Little Miss Sunshine

“I wanted to start a riot of happiness.”– Michael Arndt on the ending of Little Miss Sunshine

Barry Levinson, Honoree

Must-See Films 2010:

Bill Cunningham New York—A documentary on the charming, elegant 80-year-old New York Times fashion photographer Bill Cunningham. With the singular goal of capturing the beauty that crosses his path, Cunningham has created a poignant and ongoing chronicle of the intersection of fashion and society in New York for over 50 years—in effect, a portrait of New York City itself—while living in a tiny studio apartment above Carnegie Hall and riding a bike.

Smash His Camera—A fascinating look at the surprisingly endearing Ron Galella—the original despised Paparazzo for whom Jackie Onassis obtained a restraining order.  His archives are an exhausting journey through pop culture over the last 40+ years, from Pia Zadora & John Gotti to Jacki O & Liz Taylor.

Cairo Time—A beautiful, seductive story set in exotic Cairo, starring the always-magnificent Patricia Clarkson and sexy, sexy Alexander Siddig

Winter’s Bone—A riveting tale of a 17-yr old the lawless Ozarks, caring for her little brother and sister, while trying to find her crack-dealing Father who put up their home for his bail bond and disappeared. 

The Concert & Freedom Writers—Definitely two of the most-talked about films at the fest

Mister Rogers & Me—A lovely portrait of Nantucket summer resident and pioneering children’s television host Fred Rogers.  Created by the Wagner brothers through a long, meaningful journey of their own.

Nowhere Boy—A darling film about the teenage John Lennon and the heartbreak and angst that shaped his life and music (by Sam Taylor-Wood).

The Extra Man—A story of friendship between an older New York gentleman (Kevin Kline) and a young man (Paul Dano) with a a few sexual identity issues.  Written by (and based on) the brilliant Jonathan Ames.

The Wagner Bros with NFF Founder, Jonathan Burkhart

NFF 2010 Opening Film "The Extra Man" w/ Jonathan Ames, writer

This article ran in The Daily Beast last August and is required reading for anyone shopping in the “2 for $10″ bins.  Most of us can occasionally indulge in a hot dog and conveniently compartmentalize the knowledge that they are made of all sorts of mystery meats and fillers long enough to enjoy a few bites.  Well, you may also be able to do that quaffing the cheap wines, but somewhere in your brain, you should have the facts on what’s really going down the hatch…

Do you know what you were really drinking last night?

The dirty secret about wine is that it frequently contains wood chips, chemicals, and something called Mega Purple…

Most wine bought in the United States cost less than $10 a bottle. Of that price, the winery makes less than $2. A large chunk of that goes to pay for the glass, the labels, and the corks. Another chunk goes to paying for the winery staff, another goes toward taxes… you get the idea. To make any sort of profit, the winemaker has to buy low-quality grapes in bulk and mass-produce the stuff.

Sign at Cobb Vineyards re winemaking--could also refer to wine drinking

Beware what’s in your glass…

If you don’t have time to read the whole article by writer Keith Wallace, founder of the Wine School of Philadelphia,  the moral of the story is this:  If you want to stay away from overly manipulated wine, you may have to change your buying habits.

First, keep your hands out of the bargain bins: Those bottles are there for a reason.

Second, start buying more European wines. Despite the few horror stories, Europeans have much stricter regulations on wine additives than the U.S. or Australia.

Ironically, some of the best retail wine bargains are from France and Italy.  The standards of agriculture, quality of viticulture and generations of experience often yield a superior product at a given price point than their international counterparts.  Not insignificantly, many old producers farm organically and biodynamically.  Do you want mystery meat or a grass-fed all-beef frank?  Do you want a $10 bottle of organic Pecorino or a $5 wood-chip flavored chardonnay?  You decide.

Veuve Girls with Dominique at currentVintage

Veuve Clicquot was on island in force last week, celebrating the the 200^th anniversary of the release of the first Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin (VCP) vintage champagne at the 14^th annual Nantucket Wine Festival.

Dominique Demarville on Nantucket Island

Dominique Demarville, the charismatic and handsome Chef-du-Cave or Cellar Master, was the guest of honor at numerous fetes, large and small, and never failed to dazzle all in attendance.  At barely 40 years old and only the tenth Cellar Master in over 230 years, Dominique is most likely at the beginning of a long reign at the illustrious, iconic label.

Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin, aka “The Widow Clicquot”, was nothing short of a visionary, in that she released the first “vintage” champagne, changed the way champagne was made by developing the riddling rack to remove sediment, and created an international market for VCP by sending 10,000 bottles to Russia post-Napoleon.  Her  motto, “one quality only, the finest”, and entrepreneurial skills have been inspirational for generations—read all about her in the book, “The Widow Clicquot” by Tilar J. Mazzeo. It has been called “…an intoxicating business biography.” by Julia Flynn Siler of The Wall Street Journal.  Pun intended?

Not surprisingly, the plethora of events and opportunities to rub shoulders and clink glasses with Dominique left us at a loss for words, and so, we send him these love letters…and lift a glass to Madame Clicquot and her empire of bubbles.

Cher Dominique,

I so enjoyed your company throughout the Nantucket Wine Festival this past week.  The “Women of Nantucket in Wine” garden luncheon was a glorious treat—the elegant wines, the decadent meal, the spectacular setting and the powerful company combined with your charm and knowledge for a most memorable day.  Not to mention, the unforgettable 1985 Rare Vintage rosé with herbed lamb chops—sensationnel.

We were delighted to host you at currentVintage and appreciated you signing bottle after bottle for so many Veuve admirers.  The energy was contagious and the photos are a testament to how much fun we had!

The clambake was a lovely, casual way to wind-down-while-continuing-to-celebrate the week of wine. Lobster and La Grande Dame 1998?  Magnifique–I hope to repeat that one again soon!

Please know how much we admire your effort for artistry and quality on such a grand scale.  We look forward to the release of the Vintage 2007!

Avec toute mon affection,

Elisabeth

Dear Dominique,
May I offer that Champagne Veuve Clicquot was precisely the fitting way to celebrate and savor the finale of 14th annual Nantucket Wine Festival Great Wines in Grand Houses events?

The memory of the wines savored during yesterday’s brunch will bring pleasure to our guests (and me!) for a long time to come. Your passion and absolute dedication to both the House and your craft made each and every detail that you shared with us come to life!  The whole seemed to be coming straight from your heart, as you lead your guests to better understand and appreciate the subtleties of the superbly crafted wines being poured. I know we all will envision you, Chef du Cave going about your work, when next we uncork a bottle!
Thank you very sincerely for a truly unforgettable morning!
Best wishes for a delightful reunion with your family upon your return home.  I will hope to see you here on Nantucket again next year!

Adieu!

Lynn

Nantucket Wine Festival Great Wines in Grand Houses

May 23, 2010

Champagne Veuve Clicquot

Presented by Dominique Demarville, Cellar Master

Chef E. J. Harvey

The Seagrille, Nantucket

Dorothy Slover and Doug Kenward, Hosts

Reception

Island Creek Oysters, La Petite Pearle Caviar

Alaska Dungeness crab salad, pâte á choux

Beet and horseradish cured smoked salmon, cucumber crème fraîche, sesame cone

Nantucket egg scramble, asparagus, black truffle hollandaise

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label

1^st Course

Seared diver scallop

orange and carrot juice gastrique, pancetta, parmesan crisp

La Grande Dame 1998

2^nd course

Lobster, asparagus, Vermont goat cheese timbale

thyme and chive butter

Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2002 Rose

3^rd course

Seared veal tenderloin

Vermont morels, fiddleheads, roasted tomato cream

Grainy mustard späetzle

Veuve Clicquot Rare Vintage 1988 Blanc

Dessert course

Petite Pavlova

lemon curd crème fraîche, fresh berries, mint

Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec

Veuve Clicquot poolside luncheon

Napa Cadi

When traveling, it’s not unusual to wonder what it would be like to live somewhere else, especially if that place is particularly horrible or desirable.  Not surprisingly, when I’m in wine country (which is decidedly desirable), I often wonder what it would be like to live there and I savor any glimpse into the Napa lifestyle.

In the wine trade, a visit to wine country can be punishing, ie  six tasting appointments a day.  Beginning with barrel tasting at 9am (followed by a tour of the vineyard, the tank room, the cave, the tasting room, repeat) and culminating in a lavish dinner of too much food and wine–the day is long.  Multiply that times 7 and you get serious fatigue and more than a few pounds in the course of a week.  My Napa Valley lifestyle would definitely not include six wine appointments a day and would only involve barrel tasting once I had my own winery.  What it would include is some of the amazing food that we have had and which contributes greatly to the quality of life there, as well as weekly mud baths and lots of time hanging with friends and friends’ dogs.

Sunshine Grocery

I would base myself in Yountville, central to Napa town and Calistoga, for easy access to restaurants and shops.  Imagine arising every morning and heading to  Thomas (French Laundry) Keller’s  Bouchon Bakery in Yountville for a pistachio brioche…Shopping every day at the Sunshine Foods market in St. Helena—choosing which loaf of fresh baked bread and selecting a local olive oil to go with.  For lunch, I would have a BLT from Oakville Grocery every other day, because on the even days, I would be at Taylor’s Refresher for shrimp tacos or a tex-mex burger.  That is, except for Fridays, where I might join the boys—Ray Coursen, John Arns, Herb Lamb—for a bite & bottle at Mustard’s or Redd.  I might even have to have that BLT for breakfast occasionally, in order to fit in all these good places to eat.

Lunch at Taylor's Refresher, St Helena

More often than not, nights would be spent at Bottega (in Yountville), rather than the French Laundry.  Not because it’s the best food, but because it’s the most comfortable—and I might not be alone in that assessment, because the place is always packed.  Not, however, in an elbow to elbow way, but in an every-table-is-full way that lets you know Michael Chiarello has hit upon the perfect formula of good food and cozy atmosphere—and on a grand scale, which is hard to pull off in such a big place.  Another indication of Chiarello’s brilliance is that he only marks up the wines the slightest bit and charges a nominal corkage.  Genious!  One can enjoy top Napa wines for not much over retail, or, if you’re a winemaker, bring your own to share with friends.

Lunching, spa-ing, sharing wine with friends–that is my idea of Napa: Unplugged.  As we move into our busy season on Nantucket, doesn’t that sound appealing?!

For inspirational images of the characters that make up the real Napa Valley, check out Bill Tucker’s book, NAPA:  Behind the Bottle.  http://www.flickr.com/photos/42404405@N06/

Mark & I with Denis Toner of the Nantucket Wine Fest, and Ray Coursen of Elyse, at Bottega

David Hirsch

David Hirsch in vineyard

Lunch with David and Jasmine Hirsch

The Nantucket Wine Festival Who’s Who:  Alex Gambal, Bertrand Ambroise, Michel Anglada, John Arns, Alis Arrowood, Beaux Freres, Jack Bittner of Cliff Lede and Franz Hill, Chateau d’Esclans, Donelan, Ray Coursen of Elyse, Kristine Ashe Vineyards, Sean Larkin of Larkin, Jack Larkin & Tinknocker, Hall, Hirsch, Hourglass, Jordan, Justin Baldwin of Justin, Carissa Mondavi, Miner Family, Eric Munson of Dancing Bear Cellars, Jorge Ordonez of Fine Estates from Spain, Damaris Colhoun of Landmark, Martin Estate, Michael & Fiona Ragg of Mischief and Mayhem, Pride Mountain, Regan Wines, Comte Philippe & Beatrice Senard, Robert Sinskey, Bill ‘DANCING BEAR’ Bishop of Steele & Shooting Star, Tariquet, Dominique Demarville of Veuve Clicquot, Villa Sparina, Wishing Tree…

These are but a few of the all-star cast that is the 2010 Nantucket Wine Festival, but they, in particular, are near and dear to our hearts.  Some of them you hear about a lot, others fly under the radar.  Most, we sell their wines;  some, we just admire.  All will contribute to a stellar 4-day wine experience–I know, because I’ve spent time with almost all of them!

Just this winter, I was in Sonoma, lunching with David Hirsch and his daughter, Jasmine, at their new home on the rugged Sonoma Coast.  It is a 2+ hour drive from Sonoma, over hill and dale, and thus, we named it “Outward Bound” day.  It was a treat hanging with David, a pioneer of this appellation.  Hirsch makes pure, Burgundian-style Pinot Noir and sells his grapes to others such as Littorai, Failla and Siduri.  His Saturday seminar on “The True Sonoma Coast” will be very worthwhile.

Lunch with the Arrowoods

We (meaning Denis Toner of the Nantucket Wine Festival, our friend David Kuhn, Mark Donato and I) also lunched with Alis & Dick Arrowood of Arrowood and Amapola Creek in Glen Ellen.  The Arrowoods are a true wine country success story, in that they built up their label Arrowood, sold to Kendall Jackson (who retained Dick as winemaker), and now they’ve started a boutique label, Amapola Creek.

Ray Coursen & Kristine Ashe

We had dinner with Ray Coursen (Elyse) at Michael Chiarello’s Bottega in Yountville and again enjoyed his company at a winter feast in his home with veteran winemakers Sandy Belcher and John Arns, plus newbie Kristine Ashe.  On other nights, we dined with the Donelan Family team at Cyrus in Healdsburg and had a glass of wine with Carissa Mondavi of Continuum.

I’ve visited many beautiful properties, large and small, and having some of these wineries come to Nantucket brings back wonderful memories.  The vineyards and state–of-the-art caves at Hourglass and Hall are stunning and Justin is by far the most luxurious winery to spend the night in (except for, perhaps, Jordan!).  Pride Mountain is also a special property–Its high elevation, straddling Napa and Sonoma Counties offers terrific views and yields tremendous wines.  And in November, we’ll be back in Beaune to see old friends like Alex Gambal, Michel Anglada and the Senards.

With Michel Anglada at La Ferme de Rolle in Burgundy

Several luminaries I have had the pleasure of hosting at currentVintage.  Eric Munson, Jorge Ordonez and Robert Sinskey have all done store tastings in the past, and this year, we welcome Michael & Fiona Ragg of Mischief & Mayhem and Dominique Demarville, Cellarmaster of Veuve Clicquot.  The Raggs have the distinction of being British winemakers in Burgundy and Demarville made history as the youngest champagne Cellarmaster ever at age 36.

I am such a fan of Bertrand Ambroise and Jack Bittner that I selected the Ambroise Cremant and a Zinfandel from Franz Hill for a spring dinner pairing in a recent issue of Nantucket Today.  Jack is the General Manager of Cliff Lede (where all the parcels are named after rock bands and albums, eg Dark Side of the Moon) and Franz Hill is his own project.  Wines from Shooting Star, Wishing Tree and Domaine de Tariquet are among the value gems of the currentVintage wine collection.

Yes, it’s an all-star cast–Don’t miss these wineries and winemakers at the NWF next week…!

Alex Gambal

Alex Gambal is a festival favorite–As an American in Burgundy, he seems sort of like a hometown hero, even though he’s from D.C.  Here is a bit on Alex from a previous cV Lifestyle post:

http://currentvintage.com/blog/2009/09/27/alex-elyse-a-love-story/

Napa dinner with Kristine Ashe, Ray Coursen, John Arns & Elisabeth English

Ray Coursen of Elyse Winery is another NWF regular and was also featured in the above post.  Ray was deservingly honored as NWF Luminary of the Year in 2009.  I had a couple of excellent dinners with Ray in Yountville this winter, including this fun evening with fellow winemakers Kristine Ashe, maker of Entre Nous and John Arns, maker of outstanding cabs from Arns Winery .

Tasting Amapola Creek wines with Alis & Richard Arrowood

Elisabeth at Cyrus with winemaker Tyler Thomas and Tripp and Joe Donelan of Donelan Family Wines

Eric Munson of Dancing Bear Cellars & Eos with Andy Peay of Peay Vineyards at currentVintage

Elisabeth with Jorge Ordonez (Founder, Fine Estates from Spain) at currentVintage

http://currentvintage.com/blog/2009/09/17/ode-to-jorge/

Hourglass vineyards

Sean Larkin of Larkin Wines

http://currentvintage.com/blog/2009/05/27/six-degrees-to-sean-larkin/

Luxurious suite at Jordan Winery

Amapola plates 2

Amapola plates 1